well said gentlemen
some great advice just there
short leggies are good for piros's reason for quick retrievial of you stick when under the pump thus keeping your momentum going forward
unless you like the odd bit of toes over the nose and having a short leggie sometimes results in falling over the front of the board and having your board inserted where the sun dont shine an extra bit of length in the leggie is good for clearance
as thomo said a bit of length for larger waves is a must to get that extra bit of clearence to help you from getting pulled with your board over the falls to your doom
and great advice from ye ol grand master dodsy
that going with the flow of the first major impact/pull from a larger wave
then waiting for an appropriate time/lull to engage resistance against that pull is your best defence against swimming back to the beach with paddle in hand
just to retrieve your crumpled finless board from the shoredump or rocks or that group of shortboarders/malriders that got cleaned up it as it steamrolls its way to shore and have there brand new ryobi circular saw(as advertised in a surfing mag recently) on hand creating an new modern art sculture out of your board



not a good look