Pretty mild day, except for almost getting tagged by that groundswell. Thosd guys are all so good. We've been getting the kind of days lately that might actually show what Maliko is like. 35-45 mph with 50+ gusts. 15-20 foot windswells out of the east and some small groundswell mixed in. A few times I've thought "do we really belong out here?" then you catch one of those big honkers and fly for a few hundred yards. Wahooooo.

Of course if you step off your board hits the end of the leash like it's hooked into a double overhead outer reef wave and you f'ing PRAY it doesn't break. Such a long, long, long way to the beach.