OMG.......
OMG.....
OMG... OMG....OMG..OMG..OMG.OMG.OMG.OMG.
and I'm spent!
Woke up sick this morning, taking the day off work. So the first thing I needed to do was go for a surf. I believe that the ocean can heal anything!
The waves were kind of small but the occasional shoulder high coming through. Quite bumpy, and a little windy, but I finally got to get some decent rides on the 8'10" Hokua from Naish and OMG! I think I had some of the best waves I have had in a long time. This board is a demon, I can't believe how tight and powerful you can turn this thing. It is the first time running the M7's as the thruster's, and I'm still running the stocko trailer, and the first few waves I thought I may have over finned it, A little stiff from what I remembered, then I noticed I was standing a little bit forward. Next wave I got on the tail pad and WOW! This board turns tighter than my 6'5" (performance Shortboard). Photo of my riding my 6'5" in the Maldives in June.
I had some of the best round house cutties I think I have ever done. Then on my back hand this board really shows it's ability to turn tight in the pocket, I was able to do true shortboard backhand snaps, not ugly SUP paddle stall half turns.
The conditions were a little trying, with back wash and chop every where, and I did fall in a few times, but then I paddles out on the 10' Mana and noticed the chop and bumps even on this, so it was pretty bumpy out there, making me feel better about falling in on the 8'10". Got some great waves on the 10' Mana also, this board is so versitile, once you get your back foot on the rail and drive it hard, it is pretty amazing how well this wide board turns.
Such an awesome session, but there was crew sitting out on longboards on peaks either side of me getting next to nothing, and I got heaps, the 8'10" Hokua is somthing else, excellent paddling speed, surprising stability (esp. concidering I'm 95kg) and IMO unmatched performance, Truly mind blowing.
Sorry to come on here and loose it, but I had to let someone know, I told the misses, and she said can we go get a DVD? WTF..... She doesn't understand what having a session like this feels like. I can't wait to get this board in decent surf.
Pics below. My quiver. Beauty and the beast.
JB