Paddle cutting and gluing

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BoofHead65
BoofHead65
QLD
52 posts
QLD, 52 posts
5 Jan 2013 7:34am
Have finished my Kaholo build and need to sort the paddle out. I will glue the blade on to the shaft with 5 minute araldite but my question is, do I glue the handle on or is the shrink tube sufficient?
Shrink tube alone seems logical if I need to shorten shaft again but have never used it so am unsure if it is secure enough. Thoughts anyone?
Cheers
JasonProsser
JasonProsser
NSW
268 posts
NSW, 268 posts
5 Jan 2013 9:04am
I've never used the shrink tube to secure the handle, best to save it until you have the paddle at the correct length, as you can only use it once. I have however had a lot of success with electrical tape as a fix, allowing you to paddle for quite a while, whilst working out the paddle length. No damage to the paddle and holds real well if you do it correctly.
I wrap the handle (the thinner insert section only) so that it is a very tight fit in the shaft. this only usually needs one complete wrap as the fit is usually pretty snug anyway. Then insert the handle in the shaft. Align correctly with the blade and tape the outside join really well. You don't want the handle moving or the paddle taking on water.
When you've decided on correct length, you can use the 5 minute epoxy with the heat shrink over the top. I have a paddle that I've been paddling with for about 6 months, still only attached with electrical tape, so the longevity of this method is fine.
Hope this helps.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
5 Jan 2013 9:13am
The heat shrink is usually only there to hide a messy glue job..

DJ
gregc
gregc
VIC
1299 posts
VIC, 1299 posts
5 Jan 2013 9:19am
Good hot glue is the go then if you find you want to trim a bit more length off you heat it up and out pops the t piece. Much more elegant solution then epoxy
BoofHead65
BoofHead65
QLD
52 posts
QLD, 52 posts
5 Jan 2013 8:25am
JasonProsser said...
I've never used the shrink tube to secure the handle, best to save it until you have the paddle at the correct length, as you can only use it once. I have however had a lot of success with electrical tape as a fix, allowing you to paddle for quite a while, whilst working out the paddle length. No damage to the paddle and holds real well if you do it correctly.
I wrap the handle (the thinner insert section only) so that it is a very tight fit in the shaft. this only usually needs one complete wrap as the fit is usually pretty snug anyway. Then insert the handle in the shaft. Align correctly with the blade and tape the outside join really well. You don't want the handle moving or the paddle taking on water.
When you've decided on correct length, you can use the 5 minute epoxy with the heat shrink over the top. I have a paddle that I've been paddling with for about 6 months, still only attached with electrical tape, so the longevity of this method is fine.
Hope this helps.



Thanks Jason. A quick and simple solution.

BoofHead65
BoofHead65
QLD
52 posts
QLD, 52 posts
5 Jan 2013 8:28am
DavidJohn said...
The heat shrink is usually only there to hide a messy glue job..

DJ



Always good to have a plan b. Paint is my plan b for a botched hull. Fortunately I haven't had to go down that path yet.
Cheers
BoofHead65
BoofHead65
QLD
52 posts
QLD, 52 posts
5 Jan 2013 8:30am
gregc said...
Good hot glue is the go then if you find you want to trim a bit more length off you heat it up and out pops the t piece. Much more elegant solution then epoxy


Another good solution. I have good hot glue that I use for stripped decks rather than staples.
Cheers
supvader
supvader
VIC
96 posts
VIC, 96 posts
5 Jan 2013 10:22am
I use the same process as Jasonprosser and use 5min araldite once it is the correct length, but you can still get it off just by heating it with a hair dryer as this softens it, works with the 5 min stuff but not all of the long cure brands, they take a lot higher heat to soften it.

Pete
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