Yeah there is no getting over when it gets big , i just try paddle hard at the breaking wave try kick the board over the top and jump off.I always check if some one is behind me though , and if they are i turn around and ride the wash and try again.Eskimo rolls work up to a certain size but some of the waves we have had , i think its just bail dive deep and hope the leggie holds.

teatrea said...

Yeah there is no getting over when it gets big , i just try paddle hard at the breaking wave try kick the board over the top and jump off.I always check if some one is behind me though , and if they are i turn around and ride the wash and try again.Eskimo rolls work up to a certain size but some of the waves we have had , i think its just bail dive deep and hope the leggie holds.

I saw his dive technique yesterday - works quite well I use the same look behind and dive for the huge stuff but end up floating in the water and wearing a set on my head for my troubles. oh - the creatures leggies hold well


Thanks for the advice on the paddle placement Laceys. I've been trying to get the paddling over in surfstance technique right but the paddle has been no where close to the front. Will definitely give that a go next surf.

Turkish said...

teatrea said...

Yeah there is no getting over when it gets big , i just try paddle hard at the breaking wave try kick the board over the top and jump off.I always check if some one is behind me though , and if they are i turn around and ride the wash and try again.Eskimo rolls work up to a certain size but some of the waves we have had , i think its just bail dive deep and hope the leggie holds.

I saw his dive technique yesterday - works quite well I use the same look behind and dive for the huge stuff but end up floating in the water and wearing a set on my head for my troubles. oh - the creatures leggies hold well


Thanks for the advice on the paddle placement Laceys. I've been trying to get the paddling over in surfstance technique right but the paddle has been no where close to the front. Will definitely give that a go next surf.

i still keep the yellowbelly chicken out dive for the deep technique handy.

i'm not that brave
cheers

TheGoodDr said...

laceys lane said...

i have a trick i've learnt trying some different paddling techniques. approach the wave/white and get into a surfers stance and lift the nose accord to wave/white water coming at you as per usual by a lot of vids etc.now the next paddle stroke should be at the top of wave/white water or a little behind if you can reach.but here is the trick- get you top paddling arm right up against your ear of that said stroke. by doing that it gets your arm right over your body and when you 'go the water' with your paddle you are pulling directly down over the board.

also it gives the body a beautiful strong, dare i say, core position, so you can absorb a lot of impact as the legs can keep bending, but the back is straight.

i've made some big wave/whitewater saves doing this on a 12'6. i even remember going backwards for 20 m or so on one wave break through- still had the paddle in the water from that dig in stroke, but i made it

cheers
cheers

Laceys lane do you aim to penetrate the board into the wave slightly, or go over the top?

Also i'm guessing you hold the paddle on your forehand side when in surf stance?

What would be the biggest waves you have successfully tackled like this?

Cheers, TheGoodDr

depends on the wave. foam i try to go over over the top.

i've been thinking /looking at what i do. i usually have a jab just before the foam/ lip and then another straight over the top back bit if i can get there. i don't worry some much which side i'm paddling because you have to aim the board up as square as you can to the approaching section. hitting a section not quite straight adds another balancing factor to contend with. it always helps to be loose and limber before you go out. that makes a difference. if your tight in the lower back say, your body won't work as well.

on the 12'6 i've had 4 ft waves break in front pretty flat and have made them- its a lot of board the wave/foam is trying to grab. its a good feeling to make them. i've seen jacko make some beauties

the shape of the wave/foam approaching is often the decider. if you have a bit of a "ramp" or the wave/foam still has some wave or shape at the front of the approaching nasty bit to launch up with, its always going to be better for your chances of making it. another tip is to sometimes wait a bit so the foam loses some energy and it might slope/ramp up a bit as it comes towards you. the water may also be deeper where you are therefore making it softer

hope that makes sense

Its a tough one, Aim straight at it. Keep board straight . Paddle hard, Commit, the faster the better, Bend the knees, keep paddle in water as you go up and over for stability. Get ready to put one foot forward to push nose of board back down once wave has gone under you. Bending knees and using paddle for stability are key. Feel the water spray on your back and around you as paddle off out.

I dont nesscessarliy agree with bailing out from board, (although every situation different). experiance has shown me that after bailing, you go forward outback behind wave your board meanwhile has been pile driven onto reef or pounded by shorebreak either resulting in a preety bad crease or snappage.. Were as if you commit and take board with you behind wave ,(so what if you fall off) a lot better outcome i reckon.
Just my bits worth..

rustle said...

I find that as the wave approaches, if in surfing stance, I jump and unweight, as opposed to just hitting it and absorbing, it makes a surprising difference.
Seems obvious but I have to think to do it.
Still fall off half the time but it helps get over some.

yeah, if you are trying to pop it up you will be unweighted as much as you can be. it's almost like you are try to 'lollie' the board in a way
cheers

Actually , I don't know why I am writing about it now that the coffee is infused. I better go and do it before the wind turns.

if you watch this vid of goatman at the 4.06min mark this is some good footage of him getting over white wash hope this helps anyone

dtm said...

if you watch this vid of goatman at the 4.06min mark this is some good footage of him getting over white wash hope this helps anyone

This made me want to go for another surf.
Talented guy, somehow the name Goatman doesn't really do justice to his surfing.