have been surfing the SU for a few surfs in small waves 1-3ft but am wondering what techniques people use to get over/through mid size waves 3-5ft? I tend to go to a surf stance to raise the nose which is effective in 2-2.5 ft waves but what happens in 4-5 ft waves? Do you adopt the old school mal approach and rollover?
I'm not an expert but these techniques have been working for me.
At about 2-3' I step back on the board a foot or so and just paddle. Normal stance but just back a foot.
The nose rides up and over and everything is sweet. It's a surreal feeling because the board feels really stable and it's quite easy to stand up.
Above 3' if I am standing and paddling I take a few steps and dive over the wave and leave the board on the leash. Alternatively I will kneel and be back about a foot on the board and ride over the wave.
If I'm in the water and about to get munched I either lie on the very tail of the board and try to ride it in, or I press a hand down on the surface of the board and try to dive under. Depends on what is on the side (other surfers or rocks). The friction from my hand is often enough to keep me in contact with the board and stop it twanging off to the end of the leash. I am toying with the idea of adding a board handle on the tail. Definitely never try to hold onto the leash or the fin. It hurts.
If I am getting worked underwater I use the paddle to stroke up to the surface while getting dragged by the leash.
It's usually easier to get taken in by waves then wait for a gap in the sets and paddle out or across than fight with breaking waves.
I agree Greg it is defainately easier to ride the whitewash in when your caught inside and start again than to try get through it.I find with the bigger stuff if you just charge as hard as you can at the breaking wave step back on the board you can generally get enough momentum to punch through , also as your going through you can do a quick stroke through the white water to help get over.I still generally fall from the board but a least the board and me havent been dragged back.You than quickly get back to standind and charge the next one.I dont find going on your knees when it is big is a good idea , really easy to get your teeth knocked out or nose smashed.Any way this works for me.
!
