WA
988 posts
"The sea today was like an emerald.
Like malleable stone.
Like riding on a marble.
The marbles from my school days, green, deep and clear.
The surfers today were like family.
The sun shone like a warm winter present.
They rode.
Ski's, Malibu's, shortboards, sponge.
Standups, fish, goatboats and some,
even body surfed.
I witnessed no aggression, no anger, no spite.
Friendly happy people sharing waves, its like
A halcyon day"
(B Philp)
I didn't keep a wave count but it must have been in the thirties, forties at least.
Then it occurred to me. Riding the waves was central no doubt. The apex of the days
experience. But there was something more.
An enjoyment of the journey in its entirety. The sun on my shoulder, the
sound of the paddle as I made my way back out again. Splaff, splaff, splaff,
paddling up the face of an approaching wave as the ripples bounce off the bow like
corrugations... chudder, chudder chudder
Clumph....sploof as the board crests then drops down the other side.
Splaff, splaff, splaff, chudder,chudder, chudder.......clumph..sploof
Love it.
Then there were the waves.
3952 posts
Your sup poetry keeps me warm elbeau - nice one.
NSW
5786 posts
"Splaff, splaff, splaff, chudder chudder...clumph.."
best tittle ever
WA
988 posts
" Had a nice paddle out at your old stompin ground yesterday Beau
W"
We will be back some time soon for a visit. See you in the surf.
"Splaff, splaff, splaff, chudder chudder...clumph.."
"best tittle ever"
Thanks Doctor. Did you mean a jot?