Today Oliver, Jonathan and I hit the waves even tho it was only small waves.. it was calm, warm and glassy.

We started off at The Pines but it didn't look that good so we headed off to Pt Leo to check out Crunchies.

We hit the water at Crunchies and paddled over to Suicide. (Pt. Suicide.. The main point break at Pt Leo)

Here's some pics.

This is the turn off to The Pines for those who've never been there.



The waves were only about a foot high and we knew that once the tide drops we would not have enough water.. This pic is looking back towards Pt Leo from The Pines.. See how glassy it was.



This is back at Pt Leo and paddling out at Crunchies.. There were about ten out including one goat-boat.







BTW.. Hard core wave guys might want to hit the little red x at the top right because we are all pretty much kooks in the surf..

The three stooges comes to mind.. So don't ecpect tubes/barrels cut backs or reo's.. But we were having fun.. and that's what counts.

For this reason we dicided to stay away from the crowd and paddle over to Suicide because no one was over there.

I think I took my first wave on the head and took this pic after climbing back on.. I liked the look of the water in this pic.



Oliver going for his first wave at Suicide.. I'm yelling out "Paddle".. But I think he missed it.



Jonathan's turn to catch one.







Just when I zoom in to get a great pic of Oliver he goes and does the invisable thing.



Too many pies Oliver... Nice board tho.



Jonathan's got one.. Check out the Methan bend.



I caught a big one that sent me straight to the rocks (I guess that's why they call this place Suicide).. So I had to bail before ends in tears.



Getting a close look at the rocks.



Back out and Oliver just misses another.



And here he is sitting down on the job.



We noticed because the waves had dropped the crowd had gone from Crunchies so we paddled back over to catch a few little ones.



Oliver doing the pottie crouch.



I took this pic to show how shallow it gets towards the end of a wave.. Lucky I had my small fin.



Go Jonathan.



Here Jonathan and I are on the same wave and I've forced him to the shoulder and he's trying to get as much glide out of his 11'2" as he can.



Same wave and we almost come together (Jeez that sounds rude).



We tryed to catch a wave with all three of us on the same wave but it always ended in tears.. Tears of laughter.



We soon realized that we'd used up all the waves so we headed back in.. It had been well over three hours but felt like only one.



Still glassy as we paddle to our cars.. Over next to that green shed in the distance.



Back at the car and it was smiles all round.. One day I might get some pics in some real waves.

DJ

Good stuff DJ,thanks for sharing that with us,and hey,the dude in the water with the biggest smile,is the best surfer out there,IMO,
Robbo

DavidJohn said...

Nice Wave DJ - Go Left

Thats a cool story DJ.
You are a true ambassador to our sport!
Is that a funky grip on the front of your Naish?

Gorgo said...

If you're down that way the in-laws have bought the Balnarring store. They do decent coffee, true aussie burgers and fish'n'chips, Boscastle pies and South Melbourne Market dimmies. Breafast is on between 7:00-10:30 am.

They've hooked up with a local woman who makes excellent cakes. The prices are of the beach general store and not the mega gourmet restaurant prices you normally get stung with in that end of the world.

Take the Balnarring Beach turn off and go to the end of the road. (1.5km)

I go down there quite a bit and I know the store, I'll make sure I go there next time. BTW great pics DJ, looks even glassier in the pics. I had a great day and it was good to enjoy the nice conditions with a few mates.

That's a bummer that we missed you..and we were so close by.. We were out from 9.30 till about 1.30.. It was glassy wasn't it... I love Autumn.

When I put my Naish deck grip on I cut it back in the front section because I thought I'd never be standing up there..and also cut the tail area off because I wanted to do the whole tail pad thing.

Lucky I saved the bits that I cut off because I would often step forward paddling over a wave that's about to beak and I would slip off.. also nose trying to ride I was so restricted and I didn't want to use wax..so...

With the bits that I had left I made a cookie-cutter and made some deck-dots and stuck them on in the nose area.. It works great.

BTW.. I paddled past a surfer once and he said that it looks like bird sh *t on the nose of my board..

Also. I was out in boardies today with a 1mm long sleeve top.. Warm enough.. .. Must remember to buy some booties..

DJ

hi jonathan, sorry I missed you guys, I usually wear a 2 ml long sleeve spingy until about the end of april and then change into my steamer. But that was when I was surfing prone, now that I'm mainly suping I find it freer and I don't get so hot in just boardies & a rashie. I know what you mean about Westernport reefs,[}:)]sneaky little b*ggers I don't have one board without fin damage,except my brand new one,and at last count thats 8 boards after a severe culling six months ago.Catch up soon, Rodriquez

g l a s s o f f

I've got the same camera, took it to Fiji in July 08 and it takes great underwater photos.

If you can buy the 10m waterproof version rather than 3m as it should handle the pressure of a wave better.