I am sore all over and in a daze today. At a low, maybe it's adrenaline let down. After almost a week straight of 3-4 hr sessions every day in good sized surf. I am surfed out!
My last surf after an hour I could not be bothered putting in the effort getting out the back. I could see it coming, it was around head high. I didn't care just paddled at the same pace and took the hit. Loved it, caught one more going the long way out the back. Went back to the Boat, tied off the board and cracked a beer!
