theDoctor said...
simple fact of the matter is.... most shortboarders cannot ride their own craft.
they might think they're slater or bodie from point break, but seriously, most short board riders have ungraceful poo stances and can barely link one turn with another.
most shortboarders are of the weekend warrior persuasion and are riding the wrong type of equipment for their own amount of personal ability anyway, i.e, too short too thin, too narrow, straight off the shelf fom the pages of the glossy magazines.
most shortboarders are trying to achieve a surfing image or ideal in their heads, rather than a reality in the water.
i've always wondered if this has anything to do with the short board ego agro.
since sup, i've redicovered the joy of riding one foot waves which seem to run for ages down in kiddies corner at my local beach, while the shortboarders wait in a thirty something shoulder to shoulder pack in the alley for a barely breaking two foot set.
the last few weeks around here there has been dismal swell, but that hasn't stopped me from surfing three times everyday. there are always shortboarders out floundering trying to paddle into knee high gutless waves... whats the point..?
these guys often go home more frustrated, you ask them what the surf is like, and they all bar none say it's crap..
ask me, and i'll tell you through my ear to ear grin that it was awesome fun.
the old dinosaur mal riders are sore at us, because now there's someone who has it over them on the small days and they're too set in their ways to make the change.
the shortboarders will be sore at us because we challenge their ego image of what it is to be a 'radical, cool surfer dude straight from the pages of pro surfing magazine', by just having fun.
when the conditions dictate, i will always ride my shortboard, i will always ride my mini mal and increasing, because the conditions dictate, but also because its just too much fun, i will always ride my sup
In a nutshell Doc, excellent response

I know i now laugh to myself when Im out and theres guys out in 2ft surf on 6 2" x 18" x 2 1/4 shortboards competing with me for waves, they are just wasting there time, flapping around catching nothing

I reckon I wasted 10 yrs of my surfing life riding slater like boards in crap surf, I love me suping and are getting more waves than ever

Now that cant be bad, Ive done my 25 yrs on a short board in crap small waves, I did swap boards with a mate who was out on a 6 8" the other day while he tried my sup and had fun, but on slow sections I kept looking for my paddle for some boost