Raced off to the beach this morning, hoping to find some flat water to practise my paddling before it got blown out. I actually did manage to get my board on and off the car all by myself (yay) after I had a quick look at the sea to check it was flat. By the time I got my board onto the beach, there were heaps of waves?! (My look-see must have been between sets). Realised at that point too that I had left my leash at home.

I decided to go in anyway (on my knees) and see if I could do some padling behind the break. Behind the break wasn't flat at all like I had envisioned, it was very "hilly". I decided that standing was not an option without falling in and falling in without a leash was also not an option, so I remained on my knees and paddled around a bit.

Honestly, I was a bit nervous as I have never been behind the break and after a very awkward and graceless journey getting out there, I was a little intimidated at the thought of coming back in. When I did decide to come back in, I was just thinking to myself that it wasn't so bad, I couldn't even see any waves in front of me (not realising that you can't really see waves if you are behind them). It was at that point that I looked back and to my horror saw a wall of water forming behind me (ok, in reality it probably wasn't that big, but from my position on my knees, it felt like it was towering above me)!!! I may have let out a yelp as I started paddling for dear life to escape the wall. Next moment it hit me and the board was propelled forward like a rocket (ok, maybe not quite that fast). I was glad I was not standing up, as I wouldn't have anticipated I'd suddenly shoot forward like that (I was more thinking the wave would swallow me whole).

But, that feeling when the board shot forward.... amazing! I know I wasn't standing up, but I totally count that as my first wave ever! It eas awesome!

What I did realize is (besides remembering my leash next time) that I probably need to get a bit more comfortable on flat water first so that I can change my foot positions without falling in and get my balance a little better, so that next time I can stand up! :-D

Rosscoe said...

Seems like it is time to strap a Go-Pro to your head and record you next session...overhead tubes for sure!!

[Sorry, just tongue in cheek, I am guilty of taking the GoPro out myself. Glad you had a great surf, but don't forget the leggie next time. A SUP loose in the whitewater isn't a happy site.]

Yeah - we can add it to the funny utube clips thread.... "multiple eskimo rolls for beginners"

Stitch,

Congrats you have just joined the MOB once you get the exhiliration of the board on a wave standing, sitting, kneeling, whatever it will take you a lifetime to get over it and you start planning your world around getting your next fix

Phill

id also love to know what beach. Its been flat and onshore all bloody week!!!!.

Congrats stitch, once the bug bites it never goes away. I caught my first wave 35 years ago and i still squeal like a grommet when i catch a half decent wave. If youre ever in the south around cott or leighton and want to get some basic pointers about catching waves feel free to message. The wind was onshore from early this morning, so it was always going to be bumpy out there. check out the surf report on seabreeze, sro or swellnet. Your are looking for light south east winds and a 1 to 2 foot swell for learning.

welcome to the fraternity!

Was at Mullaloo Hilly. There were a bunch of surfers there too, but I went down the beach, far away from them. That was this morning before the wind started. Not sure if conditions would be the same now.

Too right OG SUP - have already been checking out wind condition predictions tomorrow (can't go out if windy, coz hubby will be windsurfing, so I will be watching the kids).

sameh said...

id also love to know what beach. Its been flat and onshore all bloody week!!!!.

Congrats stitch, once the bug bites it never goes away. I caught my first wave 35 years ago and i still squeal like a grommet when i catch a half decent wave. If youre ever in the south around cott or leighton and want to get some basic pointers about catching waves feel free to message. The wind was onshore from early this morning, so it was always going to be bumpy out there. check out the surf report on seabreeze, sro or swellnet. Your are looking for light south east winds and a 1 to 2 foot swell for learning.

welcome to the fraternity!

Thanks Sameh! There was almost no breeze at all this morning - almost completely dead, but what there was seemed to be coming from the sea at a 45 degree angle, so that would be SW-ish?

The waves weren't forming in nice long clean breaks. Sorry - don't have the correct lingo yet - they were breaking at multiple points.

Greenroom said...

How good is that first ride Stitch!?
It's been a few years since my first paddle on a SUP and all I can say is not a day goes by that I don't think about where I can get my next wave.
This morning Miller and I got some fun waves (yes waves) all to ourselves

Out of the wind or early?

Greenroom said...

hilly said...

Greenroom said...

How good is that first ride Stitch!?
It's been a few years since my first paddle on a SUP and all I can say is not a day goes by that I don't think about where I can get my next wave.
This morning Miller and I got some fun waves (yes waves) all to ourselves

Out of the wind or early?

We left home late and didn't get in the water until about 9ish.
Not much wind. Pretty clean and offshore. It was only small waist to chest.
Checked Mains in the arvo for a sail and it was super offshore. Most ended up having to come into the river mouth. I'm glad I didn't rig up

You live in paradise lucky bastards. Need to run over the DP at the high school :-)