Hyundai, because of the price and it didn't stall out in the 3 foot deep flood water I had to drive thru to get the kids from school after 10pm during the flood down here, I have naturalised my Elantra. My wife was in Brisbane, the kids were in school and I was stuck on the highway south of town for 5 hours.

I know off topic, but Aussie shaper raised the issue of price, and price is an issue with most of us regardless of brand.

My take on the price issue is that most Australian manufacturers have to supply boards at wholesale prices to survive in the industry today, especially if they employ other industry workers. That means you have to run accounts, overdrafts, financial controllers these overheads have to be paid for.

I contend that the real price for a board in the industry today made by an Aussie company is the wholesale price, this is what he mainly budgets to. The price that I sell my boards for and with the construction style that I use is the wholesale price that I would ask for my boards anyway. I just sell direct to the public and everyone can buy my boards at great prices, even retailers if they want to.

The construction method that I use is a partial vacuum sandwich construction, deck (wood veneer) only, with glass rails and glass bottoms, set fins and I make all my own fins.
I you as a customer wants to order a more complete vacuum foam sandwich construction you can, but it costs a hell of a lot more dollars depending on size.

A PVC sandwich bottom is around $400.00 extra, the foam alone costs me nearly $200.00 and if you want the rails done it is around the same price. I don't wrap the rails with the thin 3mm sheet I put a 30mm block on the rails and use the perimeter stringer system and have done, long before Bert let the cat out of the bag.

So if you want to compare prices, Aussie shaper lets talk about build then talk about price, then add up all the extras.

Fin Boxes are an extra $50.00 each which is a bit cheap as they are not set directly into the eps foam but are set into blocks of PVC foam the same density as the surface skin ( I use timber 2.5mm thick on my decks) which typically is around 80kg/m3, this is more than twice as dense as standard polyurethane surfboard foam and 3 to 5 times as dense as the eps core foam found in most SUPA boards today.

Then there is the R&D, as First point pointed out I spend a hell of a lot of time on the water riding my designs, testing my construction methods and have done for more than a few years. I build all my own boards completely by my self, no one else touches them during the construction phase, how many shops can actually say that.

My main design philosophy is that my boards have to be able to be turned without the use of a paddle. The paddle then enhances the turn rate allowing more aggressive Aussie short board style of vertical surfing if you want or a more traditional style of surfing, the 3 stage rocker I use allows this.

Enough ranting.

Rod

boardbumps said...

Hyundai, because of the price and it didn't stall out in the 3 foot deep flood water I had to drive thru to get the kids from school after 10pm during the flood down here, I have naturalised my Elantra. My wife was in Brisbane, the kids were in school and I was stuck on the highway south of town for 5 hours.

I know off topic, but Aussie shaper raised the issue of price, and price is an issue with most of us regardless of brand.

My take on the price issue is that most Australian manufacturers have to supply boards at wholesale prices to survive in the industry today, especially if they employ other industry workers. That means you have to run accounts, overdrafts, financial controllers these overheads have to be paid for.

I contend that the real price for a board in the industry today made by an Aussie company is the wholesale price, this is what he mainly budgets to. The price that I sell my boards for and with the construction style that I use is the wholesale price that I would ask for my boards anyway. I just sell direct to the public and everyone can buy my boards at great prices, even retailers if they want to.

The construction method that I use is a partial vacuum sandwich construction, deck (wood veneer) only, with glass rails and glass bottoms, set fins and I make all my own fins.
I you as a customer wants to order a more complete vacuum foam sandwich construction you can, but it costs a hell of a lot more dollars depending on size.

A PVC sandwich bottom is around $400.00 extra, the foam alone costs me nearly $200.00 and if you want the rails done it is around the same price. I don't wrap the rails with the thin 3mm sheet I put a 30mm block on the rails and use the perimeter stringer system and have done, long before Bert let the cat out of the bag.

So if you want to compare prices, Aussie shaper lets talk about build then talk about price, then add up all the extras.

Fin Boxes are an extra $50.00 each which is a bit cheap as they are not set directly into the eps foam but are set into blocks of PVC foam the same density as the surface skin ( I use timber 2.5mm thick on my decks) which typically is around 80kg/m3, this is more than twice as dense as standard polyurethane surfboard foam and 3 to 5 times as dense as the eps core foam found in most SUPA boards today.

Then there is the R&D, as First point pointed out I spend a hell of a lot of time on the water riding my designs, testing my construction methods and have done for more than a few years. I build all my own boards completely by my self, no one else touches them during the construction phase, how many shops can actually say that.

My main design philosophy is that my boards have to be able to be turned without the use of a paddle. The paddle then enhances the turn rate allowing more aggressive Aussie short board style of vertical surfing if you want or a more traditional style of surfing, the 3 stage rocker I use allows this.

Enough ranting.

Rod

Rod,

Are any of your boards in Sydney-preferably the N Beaches?

we were not talking about which boards are better to surf the subject is just about developement and keeping the aussie surf/sup industry going,over the years some of my boards have been true customs,some good some bad,i learned a long time ago to trust the shaper.
going to a local shaper you can at least get some input into your custom shooter with weight and ability even as gorgo said ,the colour,choosing a spray job makes it a custom,if we didnt have shapers ideas most boards would be crap,i can ask rod or dave boyd to modify a shape to suit the way i surf or the place i surf and that makes it a custom.

Hi Loco,

Bryce Thornton has a 10'2" entry wave board board. Its floaty and stable and surfs quite well for its size. I'll pm you Bryces mob, he lives at wheeler heights I think. At least you will get to have a look at the construction.

Rod

boardbumps said...

I just thought I would chuck this into the forum before I go for a surf, the tide is nearly right.

I look at SUPA board lengths this way. Just as a rule of thumb.

SUPA boards 8'0 and under are like a shortboard 6'0 and under
SUPA boards 9'0 and under are like a shortboard 7'0 and under
SUPA boards 10'0 and under are like a shortboard 8'0 and under
Supa boards 11'0 and under are like a longboard 9'0 and under


Rod

hi, i have a 8 10 x 28.5 and it a normal surfing shape. i think when you go down to 8 5s and under things start widening out - tail, nose or everything. i,m scared of going smaller because i don;t like fishy shapes. same for shortboards. you thoughts boardbumps?

My biggest problem with these ultra short Sup's is paddle ability , all comments are based on "they are stable and float me fine and surf great in small surf " , if the board won't produce good foreword speed in a straight line , how do you expect to catch waves ? Next thing you know you will standing next to short boarders in the line just so you can get on the wave.

I have my own theory on length and the only thing I have to back this up is a hydrodynamics diploma from a cereal box. Lets forget for a moment about the quiver and flat water/ocean paddling and think about one only Sup for almost all conditions the board you would use 90% of the time I reckon it would be very close to 9-4 that length gives you the best line and length for paddle speed and surfing agility.

I'm not writing off the sub 8's & 9's but 9-4 I reckon is the length for all seasons.

Bring on the bashing.....

Piros said...

My biggest problem with these ultra short Sup's is paddle ability , all comments are based on "they are stable and float me fine and surf great in small surf " , if the board won't produce good foreword speed in a straight line , how do you expect to catch waves ? Next thing you know you will standing next to short boarders in the line just so you can get on the wave.

I have my own theory on length and the only thing I have to back this up is a hydrodynamics diploma from a cereal box. Lets forget for a moment about the quiver and flat water/ocean paddling and think about one only Sup for almost all conditions the board you would use 90% of the time I reckon it would be very close to 9-4 that length gives you the best line and length for paddle speed and surfing agility.

I'm not writing off the sub 8's & 9's but 9-4 I reckon is the length for all seasons.

Bring on the bashing.....

hi rob, i agree with you, but at my 75 kg i think i'm just getting away will the 8 10. thats as short as im going. i have been surfing a fast right hander. a shorter fishy fun board just wouldn't get me there.having said that its not a board i'm going to paddle around the waterways
cheers

lacey said...

Piros said...

My biggest problem with these ultra short Sup's is paddle ability , all comments are based on "they are stable and float me fine and surf great in small surf " , if the board won't produce good foreword speed in a straight line , how do you expect to catch waves ? Next thing you know you will standing next to short boarders in the line just so you can get on the wave.

I have my own theory on length and the only thing I have to back this up is a hydrodynamics diploma from a cereal box. Lets forget for a moment about the quiver and flat water/ocean paddling and think about one only Sup for almost all conditions the board you would use 90% of the time I reckon it would be very close to 9-4 that length gives you the best line and length for paddle speed and surfing agility.

I'm not writing off the sub 8's & 9's but 9-4 I reckon is the length for all seasons.

Bring on the bashing.....

hi rob, i agree with you, but at my 75 kg i think i'm just getting away will the 8 10. thats as short as im going. i have been surfing a fast right hander. a shorter fishy fun board just wouldn't get me there.having said that its not a board i'm going to paddle around the waterways
cheers

Agree Piros and lacey at 105kg mine is 9'6" I think 10' would be easier, 30" wide is about the limit too for carving in good waves.

I think your right on the money Piros, the 285/9'4 is the best all round size for surfing.

The 285 length as I have posted before is actually one the centre pieces of my SUPA design theory.

That length is about as long as you want to go for excellent wave performance and is as short as you can go go for good paddling.

Got to go the kids are being lazy this morning cause I am sitting here.

Rod

Which one do you want to see Piros.

The No Nose one for reduced swing weight, this is best surfing board.

The bullet nose one it is a bit more stable because it has a fuller nose. It still surfs really well but has some extra swing weight that you have to push around.

The full nose one, more stable again but still surfs really well but has a tonne of swing weight that you have to push really hard. A really good nose riding board.
This is my backstop board, its nearly two years old and was made from recycled clubbie boards that I had hanging around. Its a bit to rough and worn to sell so I keep it. I think this board surfs really well except for the heavy nose. I have been surfing it this week and will continue to till my new 9'0 is ready. My personal boards take weeks to make as I have to make them around everyone elses.

This is the no nose version


This is the full nose version the date is from the last time I redrew the board and printed it out to PDF


This is the bullet nose one



Off to work now.

Rod

lacey said...

Piros said...

My biggest problem with these ultra short Sup's is paddle ability , all comments are based on "they are stable and float me fine and surf great in small surf " , if the board won't produce good foreword speed in a straight line , how do you expect to catch waves ? Next thing you know you will standing next to short boarders in the line just so you can get on the wave.

I have my own theory on length and the only thing I have to back this up is a hydrodynamics diploma from a cereal box. Lets forget for a moment about the quiver and flat water/ocean paddling and think about one only Sup for almost all conditions the board you would use 90% of the time I reckon it would be very close to 9-4 that length gives you the best line and length for paddle speed and surfing agility.

I'm not writing off the sub 8's & 9's but 9-4 I reckon is the length for all seasons.

Bring on the bashing.....

hi rob, i agree with you, but at my 75 kg i think i'm just getting away will the 8 10. thats as short as im going. i have been surfing a fast right hander. a shorter fishy fun board just wouldn't get me there.having said that its not a board i'm going to paddle around the waterways
cheers

i might add in a surfing stance under paddle loadup i can steer the board with my feet. always take ages to find the fin setup to allow for this as well as handling and surfing performance

Brooko you just cracked "The Da Vinci Code" well done.

Rob