last 2 days were sick 4/5 foot long lefts and rights
gnarly paddle back out to the peak
resulting in being pounded and dragged underwater backwards 30 to 40 meters
to the amusement of my shortboard mates

today I got nailed as I pushed through a wave paddling back out
the nose of the board bounced back into my face and gath helmet
spliting the pull down visour into 2
and cracking the front edge of the helmet

one of the boys recon it looked nasty!!!!!!!

paddled back out and scored the wave of the day

f### my head hurts

not working tomorrow wind is up
so out comes the kites for a run
gotta love that

hi dj

board is ok
slight fracture on the rail where it hit the paddle and drove the paddle into my face probably soaked up some force before the board smashed the helmet
just the inch piece was sticking out and it completely crack it in half straight up the middle
I was standing up and was ramming through the white wash that was quite solid
diving off you loose to much ground and I've gotten better at the ram it and see what happens theroy plus all the boys were watching they think I'm crazzzy anyway

just another splinter up the arse of the bannister of life

got a sore head thou
think it was from the gut load of beers I had last night
anyway it was not the first and wont be the last
lucky it was only the 10'6 not the chucky 11'6 oil tanker naish
still packs a good punch


dogman