how are ya. i just did a short dw run this afternoon and i though i might share my experience with you.
as you know on your dw post we were all talking about looking in front and not behind etc.
well my north kirra to alley run had a lot of east swell in it. as i paddled out through the surf, i thought this could be interesting.
the go for this run was to follow the bumps and troughs in the general direction i needed to go and ignore and block out the swells coming at me from side on. it was a bit of a trick to do, but if i looked at the swells, my eyes would have made my body adjust for them which would have had me floundering around and probably in the drink quite a few times. i'm a simple man and my brains wouldn't have coped adjusting to two different dimensions
interesting sensation being on a runner and actually going uphill a bit as a swell pasted side on under my board.
as i said, i've been a bit rusty of late, but i really concentrated on my board and what was right in front and had an easy time of it with plenty of legs left to get a round the alley rocks backwash.
scored a lot of runners but not to many connections. happy enough
cheers
