today- paddle training 5.30 to 6.45, just cannot ever get past kelly and jamie, even if i edge forward a at the start. then off for 2 waves on the 12'6
8.00 am,late start for work, so a quick shortboard at a local beachie. some nice waves. the paddle out nearly kills me- the arms just don't want to work after the early morning effort, but it gets better.
go to work
5.00 pm, drive past the alley- lo oks messy, so i drive home and get the dw 12,6. sneak out close to the rocks. jacko's out on his new 7'2. he thinks he might be able to do snaps off the top with this one when i ask him. he looks happy. get some waves, interesting surfing down the line on a board like this.
get out, pack up and grab some dinner on the way home
not a bad day all in all

cheers