Thats bad luck oliver, but always good to get your first surf injury out of the way

means you were going hard, I have a had a run of getting whacked on the head while surfing my shortboard on my back hand in sucky waves.
Also near had my eye ripped out when a kook dropped in on me about 15 yrs ago and got around 30 stitches

I dont wear a helmet, but a few of my mates do and a Gath is the only way to go.
I thought I was in all sorts of trouble today when I got a set wave at our beach break (well over head high and sucky) I took off did a big bottom turn, a few big fading s turns and then started looking at the close out section approaching, I went to do a big late kick out and instead got sucked down the mineshaft landing on my board sideways. It knocked the wind out of me, and I got caught inside for the next 5 minutes

On the way down I thought here is a shirt full of broken ribs for sure

Lucky it just put my neck & back out. Surf was excellent here this morning, solid and clean