this gonna sound stupid

> 10 years ago
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laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:21pm
but,just had a paddle with a guy who just got his new red tinted 14. after catching a few waves and runners we came back up the creek and i had a go on his board.
14' x 30" isn't my thing and i wasn't that fussed on other ones i tried, but this was realy nice. clean as whistle and had that this good feel.
anyway, it got me thinking about all the dc dw boards i've tried and it came to me that my favorites were the tinted boards not the paint ones
question is - is there some science for why that might be. does the paint not flow in the water or something remember, this has only just dawned on me.
all so, i prefer normal epoxy boards to carbon- carbon doesn't seem to give me any surfing feeling or response from the water
cheers
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:28pm
physical feeling created by an emotioanl response....(Ie its a mental thing)

think about these things:

#1 people will argue the science untill pigs fly
#2 no 2 days(conditions both water and human) are the same
#3 how much difference is enough to make you buy something different


just go with what makes you warm and fuzzy
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
22 Oct 2010 10:29pm
if the boards been cut back correctly after the painting process there really shouldnt be any difference between the two. Likely just that those tinted boards you tryed were and are good boards.
And yes carbon do stiffen things up a lot im an fan of it in says guns though only one thin layer just for the strenght factor as they can be stiffer and get away with it.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
22 Oct 2010 10:31pm
I think you're right.. (the topic title bit)..

DJ
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:40pm
dtm said...

if the boards been cut back correctly after the painting process there really shouldnt be any difference between the two. Likely just that those tinted boards you tryed were and are good boards.
And yes carbon do stiffen things up a lot im an fan of it in says guns though only one thin layer just for the strenght factor as they can be stiffer and get away with it.


my 16 was normal glass epoxy, but had a honey comb membrane on the deck. it was the stiff ist dw board i've been on, but felt great. i prefer my dw board to be as stiff as possible within the limitations of being a reasonably light weight. i want the board to be force through, not bend to wave/water pressure.it's not like i'm pulling off heavy bottom turns and looking to ping off like those carbon rail boards
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:42pm
DavidJohn said...

I think you're right.. (the topic title bit)..

DJ


just waiting for that one! ha ha
cheers
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
22 Oct 2010 10:51pm
funny thing is those carbon rails were used on shortboards to replace the stringer as shortboards have stringers for strenght as there are thin etc but the thing is most sups dont have stringers in them due to the thickness etc and well i think i said to much already!

Yeah i recon would be super fine in down winders and guns and for guys like goaty who ride to many unmakable waves
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
22 Oct 2010 11:05pm
i honestly dont think you would notice the difference between epoxy paint the clear sprayed then cut back correctly and standard epoxy finish. As 90% of surfboards in shops are clear sprayed and wet rubbed back to cover up weave hits etc.
As for the carbon on the down winder sounds good idea. Im actually looking into something similar to do to Goaties next gun to make it bullet proof or at least dy point proof
62mac
62mac
WA
24860 posts
WA, 24860 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:29pm
DavidJohn said...

I think you're right.. (the topic title bit)..

DJ


Yep what he said
hilly
hilly
WA
8133 posts
WA, 8133 posts
22 Oct 2010 9:38pm
make it bullet proof or at least dy point proof


Good luck have you seen him in action
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 1:44am
62mac said...

DavidJohn said...

I think you're right.. (the topic title bit)..

DJ


Yep what he said

yep
Daneli
Daneli
QLD
1538 posts
QLD, 1538 posts
23 Oct 2010 7:36am
Sure you wern't wearing a Powerband" when you were riding the tinted boards?
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:02am
Daneli said...

Sure you wern't wearing a Powerband" when you were riding the tinted boards?

62 mac and daneli- borrrring

62mac
62mac
WA
24860 posts
WA, 24860 posts
23 Oct 2010 7:20am
yep, I know my comment was stupid
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 12:43pm
62mac said...

yep, I know my comment was stupid


just a bit of fun

i like a good ,well thought out bagging. there's plenty of material to work with here
cheers
62mac
62mac
WA
24860 posts
WA, 24860 posts
23 Oct 2010 12:34pm
Good onya Lacey,all about the fun
Daneli
Daneli
QLD
1538 posts
QLD, 1538 posts
23 Oct 2010 4:32pm
LOL
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 7:13pm
actually probably is just the weight factor -ie no paint, less weight
cheers
Piros
Piros
QLD
7303 posts
QLD, 7303 posts
23 Oct 2010 7:32pm
This will probably start the argument again of polished finish v Protect , it all comes down to surface tension. Aircraft are nice and shiny for maximum slip but water grabs and sticks , so you need to find ways to break the grip of the water , Protect seems to be the answer of roughing up the surface to break the tension but there is no real science of how much texture is to much and when a textured surface actually creates more drag.
MickV
MickV
VIC
188 posts
VIC, 188 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:05pm
I remember going through this stuff when I used to race K1's. All the experimentation ended up showing that only a certain type of minute groove pattern, running in a specific direction proved to be faster than a polished surface. The gains were only marginal but enough to get the grooved material banned.
We tried wet rubbed vs highly polished and in the end there we couldn't prove enough difference to bother with.
Piros said...

This will probably start the argument again of polished finish v Protect , it all comes down to surface tension. Aircraft are nice and shiny for maximum slip but water grabs and sticks , so you need to find ways to break the grip of the water , Protect seems to be the answer of roughing up the surface to break the tension but there is no real science of how much texture is to much and when a textured surface actually creates more drag.


aussiefreebs
aussiefreebs
VIC
228 posts
VIC, 228 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:40pm
There's 2 simple truths when it comes to boards.

1.) Red ones go faster.

2.) Red ones go faster.
Piros
Piros
QLD
7303 posts
QLD, 7303 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:08pm
MickV said...

I remember going through this stuff when I used to race K1's. All the experimentation ended up showing that only a certain type of minute groove pattern, running in a specific direction proved to be faster than a polished surface. The gains were only marginal but enough to get the grooved material banned.
We tried wet rubbed vs highly polished and in the end there we couldn't prove enough difference to bother with.
Piros said...


I did a similar test when I used to water ski race , the results were dramatic when you are doing 90mph , we first started rubbing the bottom of skies back with 1000 grit wet and dry , you could really feel the difference on the drag on the ski was heaps less. I took it too far and rubbed my ski back with 400 grit for the Hawkesbury river race and after just 5km my legs were blown and it cost us the race.It felt like I had shag pile carpet nailed to the bottom of my ski.

It's alot harder to feel the results at 10 to 15km on a Sup, yachts still use the grooves that MickV tried but thats more channeling the water for straight line running.

In my humble opinion we still haven't found the sweet spot between polished and Protect and Lacey might be onto something........

Rob


CMC
CMC
QLD
3954 posts
CMC CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:23pm
Here is my opinion and it's sure to get poohooed given that people don't even believe surf SUP flex. On that note and just as a side salad to rev people up one very noted SUP shaper told me that he does not use stringers in his boards as they make it too stiff. If a board did not flex without it how could it flex less with it???

Anyway, back to the topic. You will note that usually dales boards that are painted are carbon now, the standard glass ones are tinted or the boards that I have seen recently are anyway. Both painted and tinted boards are pro-tec and wet rubbed so surface finish is the same. Glass and carbon flex differently. Surf ski's flex, prone paddleboards flex, outriggers flex also. I know for a fact that my 17'er flexes like crazy at 12kg's.

I reckon what Lacey likes is the way that glass boards flex as opposed to carbon or glass boards painted with the extra weight.

Go on, cook me now, I dare ya!
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:28pm
umm, i might be right- now i am worried
cheers

ps cmc- thats true with the finishes. i think you've got it, the particular way glass/epoxy/paintless flexes. yes a board at 12' and over is gonna flex

rob has a point too i think
Piros
Piros
QLD
7303 posts
QLD, 7303 posts
23 Oct 2010 9:32pm
Good points CMC flex alone will change everything.
laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
23 Oct 2010 10:36pm
MickV said...

I remember going through this stuff when I used to race K1's. All the experimentation ended up showing that only a certain type of minute groove pattern, running in a specific direction proved to be faster than a polished surface. The gains were only marginal but enough to get the grooved material banned.
We tried wet rubbed vs highly polished and in the end there we couldn't prove enough difference to bother with.
Piros said...

This will probably start the argument again of polished finish v Protect , it all comes down to surface tension. Aircraft are nice and shiny for maximum slip but water grabs and sticks , so you need to find ways to break the grip of the water , Protect seems to be the answer of roughing up the surface to break the tension but there is no real science of how much texture is to much and when a textured surface actually creates more drag.





hi micky v, got a curly one for you. do k1 racers use any polish or liquid wax on their craft like the waxes down hill ski racers use on their skis
cheers
MickV
MickV
VIC
188 posts
VIC, 188 posts
24 Oct 2010 1:03am
Hi Lacey, I stopped racing a long time ago so I don't know what they do now. But back then we tried a few different things and car polish was one of them. There were different theories going around then, various degrees of wet rubbing right through to extreme polishing. There was even a type of acid that you painted on the hull and let dry and when you put it in the water it reacted and made the boat more slippery (never tried this one on a kayak but used it yacht racing years later). In the end I think most just settled on a clean boat.
Mostly I copied some of the stuff that the top guys were trying. Piros the coating with the grooves was used at world champ. level for a while. I think the Americans used it until it was banned. My lack of ability kept me well away from that level.

CMC
CMC
QLD
3954 posts
CMC CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
24 Oct 2010 7:09am
MickV said...

Hi Lacey, I stopped racing a long time ago so I don't know what they do now. But back then we tried a few different things and car polish was one of them. There were different theories going around then, various degrees of wet rubbing right through to extreme polishing. There was even a type of acid that you painted on the hull and let dry and when you put it in the water it reacted and made the boat more slippery (never tried this one on a kayak but used it yacht racing years later). In the end I think most just settled on a clean boat.
Mostly I copied some of the stuff that the top guys were trying. Piros the coating with the grooves was used at world champ. level for a while. I think the Americans used it until it was banned. My lack of ability kept me well away from that level.




There is a great article at Epic Kayaks on this exact topic, cleaning, polishing and the grooved 3M Material story at World championships. Great read.

http://www.epickayaks.com/news/news/to-wax-or-not-to-wax

MickV
MickV
VIC
188 posts
VIC, 188 posts
24 Oct 2010 9:40pm
Good find CMC, that is a great article.
I must demo one of their ski's, they make my old Anderson look like a log.
colas
colas
5389 posts
5389 posts
25 Oct 2010 2:17pm
After reading this: www.standupzone.com/forum/index.php?topic=7044.0
I rough-sanded (400 grit) all my boards and fins, and I definitely see improvements in the acceleration of boards, especially the transition going into planing. That means takeoff, and hitting the trim line when you get up near the top of the wave, and get and angle to make the section. In these "watermelon seeds" moments when you feel squeezed by the wave force and expect to be squirted forward, you definitely feel a sanded board gliding sooner. It helps also a lot on windsurfing wave boards that change speed often.

You want to sand till water flows in sheets, and do not form beads, or till applying pressure on your hand will make it slip. Sanding fins helps a lot, you get more efficiency out of them.

Sanding your paddle blade helps also, you get less water disturbance on entry and exit.

We are speaking of an effect amounting less than 10% I guess. hardly noticeable normally but useful in critical moments.

Now, when applying paint on repairs, I can definitely see water beading on the paint. So Lacey, maybe your tinted resin boards was just sanded rough and your painted boards were just too glossy?
doggie
doggie
WA
15849 posts
WA, 15849 posts
25 Oct 2010 3:13pm
I had an old shortboard that was getting a bit crusty, 800g w&d is the go and made it heaps better. Woke the old girl up let me tell ya!!
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