All I wanna ever do is be in the water. I dont drink, smoke or do drugs. A breaking wave is my drug. I bleed salt water. If I dont see the ocean at least once a day I turn suicidal. Cut loose from the noose! 20 seconds I think about windsurfing, 20 seconds I think about SUP surfing and the other 20 I think about whatever Im in the mood for. Even at work Im on auto pilot!
Yesterday I got up at 430am just to get down to the beach and in the water before the sun came up. I got some nice soul arching waves all to myself. I couldnt help but smile and I felt high. Then in the arvo the wind came in and I was back down the beach with the wind in my sail. Just me and a mate with over head high waves.
The total amount of hours I spent yesterday in the water, looking at the water or just hanging at the beach, I would estimate it was about 7/8 hours

Life is a total beach

