www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1208457/The-Wider-View-Surfing-swell-Severn-Bore.html

As I recall, the first person ever credited with surfing that river was a gentleman by the name of Mad Jack Churchill who learnt to surf in Australia after WW2.

However I think his main claim to fame was that while he was serving in Europe during the war, he had the distinction of capturing a significant number of german prisoners armed with nothing more than a Claymore.

For the uninitiated, a Claymore is a dirty big sword.

great vid.

I reckon with a big enough log, I could even handle that wave for a bit. Probably need a rest at half way.