Was surfing my fav bit of beach over the weekend, a lot bigger than I thought and not as clean with a few close-outs. Swore that I would try and pick the smaller cleaner ones and not do anything silly..

First wave was nice and clean got a couple of bottom turns and trimmed a little near the nose and kicked out, made it back out and seen the rogue sets we were watching from the car before we headed out, the ones I swore I would not chase!

Spun around, took off, got to the bottom and made my way up the face, eyes like saucers, holy crap this thig was gonna throw a lip over me! Got my feet right, ducked down and pointed the F/B towards the light at the end of the tunnel and went for it...had the view of the tube and one hand on the face as I flew down the line, honestly thought I was gonna make it when the nose grabbed and shot me out like a kamikaze penguin, copped a flogging on the inside and it took me ages to get back out. Getting caught in the moment is what its all about I guess?

Possibley Mac, considering I was on a 9'6 maybe something a little shorter would have done the trick?

It was a pretty hollow wave but I have a feeling it changed shape on me as I thought I was going to exit.

It all happens quite fast. Love the look on some peoples faces when they see a mal go for a barrel! Love watching others go for them as well ha ha

I could have just kooked it as well? Was lucky not to wear the board on the scone. That bit of beach never ceases to amaze me and its not even at the best time of year for it.

I am gonna go home and watch Tudor pulling in on his Mal at Pipe for inspiration