Oh "GRASS HOPPER" I see your problem , go see uncle Bob at Byron, get a Mal with black red or green bands , any wave you wish for will be yours , groms will be stupified in your awsumness, for this is what the great ZEN MASTER proclaims..!

back in the real world lay of the bongs get fit and the worlds ya oyster..!

Mrknownothing said..
Fark me! I've been going through a real 'my lifes over, I'm to old for this ****' sorta phase of late. Everything from surfing to my friggen career is copping it. Want to know the real zinger?? Im 22...

So how are you older learners coping with being air reversed over the top oft by little 6 year old rippers? Surely there are some uhhum.. late bloomers among us?

Come back in 2045 and ask it then.....get your finger out @ 22 you can take on the World

And BTW..Air reverse kick tail flips are for the Shortboard forum

Get a 9'6" and go surf some solid waves. At 22 you have all sorts of adventures ahead of you if you go looking for them:

Have you surfed an 8, 10 or 12 foot wave? Start building up to it.

Can you really find and ride a barrel? Queensland point breaks don't count (too easy as it is so perfect).

Have you surfed a limestone, granite and coral reef? Go find some. The waves really do have different natures according to their bottoms.

Have you ridden a board other than a standard HP shorty? Singles, twins, semi-gun pintails, longboards...go give them a go as they will put you in parts of the wave a HP doesn't (singles won't win you a world title but they are fun, fast, teach you how to do a proper rail turn and bottom turn for instance).

Have you truly wondered how the hell am I going to get in? Go find that moment.

How many of your bucket list waves are left to surf? Start planning on getting there.

Have you camped at a world class break for an extended period of time?

Have you found uncrowded waves without a guide or any idea they were there? There are plenty of opportunities for that in Oz.

Go reinvigorate your surfing.

Or, give it up and make one less person in the lineup.


I pretty much didn't surf from 19-24. That break has always kept me fully stoked on hitting the water.

Mrknownothing said..
Fark me! I've been going through a real 'my lifes over, I'm to old for this ****' sorta phase of late. Everything from surfing to my friggen career is copping it. Want to know the real zinger?? Im 22...

So how are you older learners coping with being air reversed over the top oft by little 6 year old rippers? Surely there are some uhhum.. late bloomers among us?

my lifes over Pfffffffffft
try interest rates at 17.5% on your first mortgage , starting a new business from scratch, wife forgets to take the pill and your car just sh!t itself with no rich parents to bail you out.

you're lucky to be getting wet, enjoy it.

Ted the Kiwi said..
I think Drip covered the surfing thing well - Cobra touched on a few other of life's important issues when you are 22. Girls. Enjoy them as much as you can while you can

and then in todays world.....if you enjoy them so much...... you can become one