Gotta apologize to "Big Red", my one and only mal. For 4 years i have had one board due to funds being dedicated to larger causes and that is the main reason that the mal is all I have surfed. Along the way have well and truly decided that my heart lies in riding longer boards frothing on the glide and trim as opposed to the burn and slash.

For the last 4 years we have surfed every wave i have experienced, point breaks, reef and beach breaks up and down the coast. Everything from 1 foot to probably double head. Never let me down despite the perilous positions I have put you into.

I have creased and dinged you, smashed rails, dropped you onto the concrete and even got you air born when I forgot I had taken off the straps and decided to zip into town to get a pie...thats right an air on a mal...

Yet for all of our adventures and good times you have been left in the shed for the last few months...

I purchased a mid length to experiment and see what all the hype with 'shortboarding' is all about. I must admit when i get it right and adjust how i go about the session I have enjoyed myself drawing different lines and experiencing the way a board 2 feet shorter behaves in the pocket (Much to the joy of mates who have been coaxing me to hang up Big Red for years and get 'onboard' with a shorter board.)

I have not forgotten you, just been keeping you keen by treating you mean, I have not forgotten our first take off, barrel, cut back and the way you effortlessly glide on the face and trim down the line as well as affording me a little bit of time on the nose.

Wont be too long before i am dragging your beaten, weathered and patched carcass down to the beach to top up the wax rail to rail, nose to tail for a session of stress releasing stoke.

chrispychru said...

what a great story to read

+ 1 Now where are those.....

choice , another satisfied greenie member

Yes, and sitting too far back with the nose high in the air is not recommended.

And turning her around in a high wind can also be a bit of an embarrassment, found that out not 4 hours ago down at queeny.

yep, wind turned and she got blowy at around 11.30.

Swell held up okay until I got out at 1pm

- Good story!