nah lads. mac is a stirrer. went out for a wave this morning. head high and smooth,with a light off shore breeze. paddled out,only one bloke near me,50metres away. getting some very nice waves. well i have pulled into many a close out lately just trying to get barrelled,never happened. today though, dropped in with a nice bottom turn,bit of a snake run....then i hit a section and started to cover me up,took a step forward,tucked in and thank you huey. my first barrel on a long board. hooted myself so loud and paddled back out so stoked. for the next 2 hours i got heaps of waves and a few more of those lovely barrels. this has been one the best days ever.
simgromdo i tried to explain it as i thought you would

otherwise it would have been..i just got fn shacked for the first time on a long board yewwwwwwww

