yourself as a surfer

After asea's challenge,he got me thinking that this guy is a ripper.

I have some kooky days were nothing goes well and others that make
me come back a very happy camper.

Best result in a comp was 3rd my division in the Duke Fest 07 after that I retired from the comp seen .

Lfish said...

VERY ordinary at the moment.......don't get to surf anywhere as much as I would like to but intend to change that soon.....

Hi L-fish did I read somewhere you just retired

62mac said...

Lfish said...

VERY ordinary at the moment.......don't get to surf anywhere as much as I would like to but intend to change that soon.....

Hi L-fish did I read somewhere you just retired

Yes Mac, you did....I am recently retired & when I'm finished making a couple of boards & cutting up a SUP , my intention is to move to a more convenient place to live & live the good life....

i am still learning to try and master the longboard and it is slowly progressing, which i think is keeping me so interested.

mac i wish i was as good as you make out.thks for trying to build me up.what time you be there?

Not as good as I used to be most of the time....better better than I was when the heat gets turned up swell wise...probably just alot clamer when it gets a bit more critical...I still froth like a mad man when we are heading down for a session....

Prior to f##king my back just over 2yrs ago I was just starting to surf really well (by my standards) - by that I mean I was really confident on the mal in pretty much all conditions and actually starting to go reasonably well on the shorty. Only problem was that I surfed very small surf and big surf well but everything in between only average ? Comps have always been my undoing - have free surfed the morning of a comp and had guys reckon I had a shot at getting to a final - only to bomb out in the heats due to over thinking it

Nowdays I am trying to get surf fit (mentally and physically) but keep getting little niggling injuries (knees/shoulders etc) and they just keep putting me back a few weeks on a constant basis. Its also been a hell of a struggle coming off 2.5yrs on a sup back onto a surfboard but finally got my head and body around that and can pretty easily jump between both now with little adjustment needed. All in all I am pretty happy with the way I am surfing - I just wanna get the body right and be able to surf a lot more. I dont surf as well now as a couple of years ago but dont really give a toss - I am having fun and I'm actually a lot more confident in the lineup than I used to be. Maybe a coupla years on sups has made me a bit more thick skinned. (or arrogant )

Lfish said...

62mac said...

Lfish said...

VERY ordinary at the moment.......don't get to surf anywhere as much as I would like to but intend to change that soon.....

Hi L-fish did I read somewhere you just retired

Yes Mac, you did....I am recently retired & when I'm finished making a couple of boards & cutting up a SUP , my intention is to move to a more convenient place to live & live the good life....

Bangalow,one of my suppliers has a farm there and I just love the place,10 minutes to the Bay,Lennox, Boulders and living in the country the GC has changed so much in the past 10 years and growing into a city.

thommo 000 said...

62mac said...

Lfish said...

62mac said...

Lfish said...

VERY ordinary at the moment.......don't get to surf anywhere as much as I would like to but intend to change that soon.....

Hi L-fish did I read somewhere you just retired

Yes Mac, you did....I am recently retired & when I'm finished making a couple of boards & cutting up a SUP , my intention is to move to a more convenient place to live & live the good life....

Bangalow,one of my suppliers has a farm there and I just love the place,10 minutes to the Bay,Lennox, Boulders and living in the country the GC has changed so much in the past 10 years and growing into a city.

Nice spot Bangalow, i rented a place there for a while years ago, had a lot of fruit trees, and they had a great market day there, i remember the drive down the hill to Byron looking at the swell lines, ahhh them were the days.

Mid northern NSW........some of the best spots in the country.........may start something with one....but I think it is!!!