To use an over used term......stoked! After a loooong time off the board (fractured ankle), finally got back on today 2-3ft midday surf and felt dam fine!!! had to share, so bloody happy to finally surf Stoked
good stuff. injuries really suck but they make you realise how much you take of granted sometimes
Totally LL.....Totally.... was taking my "indestructibility" a little for granted and got a very solid warning with the ankle injury...much more respect for gravity at present
(Greens!)
