1990 surfed North Point in the morning at about 12 foot face with about 3 other people where we were taking off. That was pretty good, but I only remember all the free falling take offs when I didn't paddle hard enough or commit or whatever I was doing wrong. Some of the worst beatings of my life, but that afternoon...
Drove down the hill into Yallingup, huge lines rolling in & super clean (rare for WA arvo's). We paddled out & it seemed like it didn't matter how far out you paddled, there was still a wave breaking further out the back. So I found I was just paddling out until I met a wave that looked good & I'd have a crack at it. Then there was this one wave towards the end of the session, I'd paddled heaps further out and this massive wave came. I paddled, took off & remember thinking oh no, too deep. I came off the bottom and this thing through over one of the biggest backhand barrels I've ever surfed in my life. I was slotted for probably only 4 or 5 seconds. But it felt like such a long time. I can kind of compare it to the time I rolled my first car at 120kms/h. JUst the adrenalin rush or something seems to slow things down when you feel like your in serious danger.
Next was a place round from Apollo Bay in1996, I forget the name of the beachie
We were the only ones on the beach in the middle of summer. We had a nice little bank to ourselves and a bigger wave came through. I took off and had a standing barrel for I don't 6 or 7 seconds seconds absolutely screaming along. It was the longest barrel of my life until about 2003. But it was such a beautiful clean day.
But the best wave I've ever had was 3 years ago at airport rights. The swell was building as the tide was on the way up. I'd cut my foot on the second wave coz it was still a bit shallow and waves were only head height. But 90 mins later it was over double and still really clean (no wind). Waves were breaking off the second bubble and it was still shallow enough for them too be nice and sucky. I took off on this wave that had heaps of wall. Bottom turned and cut back with the top turn just as it hit the main reef. Into the barrel, riding along and briefly out before backdooring the next section as the wave picked up pace. I was absolutely flying along as I could see the wave almost shutting down in front of me I was so deep on the next section I thought it was over. But I was going so fast I was just looking down this long cylinder of Bali glass and came out at the end into deep water. Easily the best wave of my life
Had some great waves, but nothing beats that feeling you get when your looking out from a deep barrel. I really appreciate it, coz it doesn't happen that often for me.
but hey i will play.
sober as a judge sir
