Scored some clean uncrowded beachies on the weekend. Got there at 8am surfed til 11.30am home by 1pm done and dusted, nice and tired and full of surf stoke for the rest of the day.

Went single fin for a change and man it was a blast. Not as much grip on the upper part of the wave but a real blast on the smooth long bottom turns and pivoting the turns. Seems to loosen up my backhand surfing a lot. Even got called "buckets" by my mate cos he swore he saw some spray come off a backhand top turn which was flattering

I tried to duck into a few small barrels on the bigger sets but still have not got that down packed. Something unnerving about pulling in with so much board under your feet! Gott a harden up, pick my line and go go next time, no excuses.

Tried a new wettie too. Got a 2x2 Rip Curl Core, man it was warm, almost too warm. Also tried surfing in booties as well, really comfortable and didnt slip off once. I bought them to surf reefies but just wanted to try them out, was really impressed with how flexible they are.

macca dacca where u been?? had some perfect little , i mean little sliders on the old log the last couple of days,perfect right handers,long rides you know the winter waves i'm talking about,you definately need an old log or the 10ft your thinking about.A change is coming so i might see you at you know where.Are you frothing at the mouth ??

asea said...

macca dacca where u been?? had some perfect little , i mean little sliders on the old log the last couple of days,perfect right handers,long rides you know the winter waves i'm talking about,you definately need an old log or the 10ft your thinking about.A change is coming so i might see you at you know where.Are you frothing at the mouth ??

Mate I was going to send a search party for you asea,Been down every weekend other than last Saturday. Been parking on the hill at the G, mainly been hanging around the top of the G point, and sometimes LM.

Good to see ya still alive