Do you know yours? I know mine, well at least one of them!!!

I will never be a cross stepper, I will always be a shuffler and today marked the culmination of every attempt to be a cross stepper.

You know, it’s funny, I have been putting in the biggest effort I could for over a month now, went to a single fin, even made a special trainer at home and then today I put the small Munoz fin back in along with the side bites. Paddled out to a nice little inside bommy at Long Reef and just went back to my old ways of a quick shuffle back, a slam of the foot on the tail pad, a half stall, crank it around, forehand or backhand, and I’m back in heaven and suddenly enjoying myself again. Even managed to sneak in a cheater 5, haven’t done one of them in months.

It was always going to be a big ask at my age.

I guess I’ll just have to be content with watching others do all the cross stepping and remember the immortal words of that great latter day philosopher, Dirty Harry.

GPA said...

obct - I always enjoy reading your posts!



keep the obct posts coming...

second that

I know this is gunna sound really soft, but I have restricted myself nowdays (except on surf trips) to surfing/supping every second day. Yes, I may miss the odd really good day but my body really thanks me for it.
AND - I am trying really really hard to listen to my body when out in the surf and when it says take this one in - I gotta take this one in !! because its the "just one more" that f##ks me for the next two days cos I always overstress the shoulder or knee or back or something else when the body has just told me its tired. Maybe I am getting a bit scared of the consequences of stupidity now cos I am having my first joint operation and to be honest I am worried about the outcome (surf wise) but I wonder if it will slow me down if and when I get back on a board afterwards or will I forget the pain a month later, at least until the next op' It scares the hell outta me not knowing what is to come but I guess I should have started listening to my body a coupla years ago, so now I just gotta suck it and see - and hopefully learn from it.

As I've gotten older I realise that I enjoy the fun of surfing and it comes down to how I feel. It is nice if someone appreciates what you have done but that's not why I surf.

Nowadays, I'm honest and if the conditions are beyond me I'll admit to it. I don't need to prove I have balls, I know where they are.

62mac said...

rune said...

As I've gotten older I realise that I enjoy the fun of surfing and it comes down to how I feel. It is nice if someone appreciates what you have done but that's not why I surf.

Nowadays, I'm honest and if the conditions are beyond me I'll admit to it. I don't need to prove I have balls, I know where they are.

Classic last line rune

Its cold over here so I bet they arnt where you think they are lol