True?

Fat, old man rides a 9'3 lb, easily paddles on to small waves.

Friends daughter borrows lb, novice, catches many waves despite being not very strong and quite a new.

Young, fit, strong short boarder borrows lb ,can't catch any waves.

I gave gained a few pounds and aged a bit since you saw me last Mac

False??
Can only go on my family and their friends. The ones that surf sub 6'2" banana white boards struggle, whereas my two surf mainly fish style boards, flatter rocker etc and can jump straight on to the mal and rip or cruise. Same for me, 6'4" twin fin and 9'4" single fin. (No ripping, just cruising)!

It's just a matter of experience.

As a Shortboarder I remember clearly my first surf on a Mal.

I'd take off, not move back enough and either bog the nose or try to turn from the middle and nothing would happen.

It took a few surfs to remember the feeling of the board I learnt to ride, a 7'0 pintail Strapper pin tail single fin.

Forward to trim, back to turn. It's just a matter of adapting to the equipment and the more you move between many different boards the easier it is to ride anything. You learn to surf by feel, constantly adjust to what is happening and ride it in the way you need to.

If you're still struggling it's the fun bit, learning to do new things is more fun than being good at them and repeating the process over and over.

Prawnhead said...
probably rue-ins yaw abilitee to spel as weil!!

Typing in the phone before I really woke up

kadilak said...

Prawnhead said...
probably rue-ins yaw abilitee to spel as weil!!

Typing in the phone before I really woke up

just taking the piss
looks like waves up north today ..washed out and horrible again here today !

MickPC said...
I just started riding a longboard after riding a shortboard for 32 years & yeah took me a while to get used to turning especially off take-off. I'd lean over like I would a short board & just fall on my face. Would often happen on the first wave, coz ingrained memory was for riding a SB. But I think its a lot easier than going from LB to SB, I havn't put on weight but just paddling my 6'0 firewire feels like its waterlogged the way its submerged while you paddle it, its a really horrible feeling really. Might havta trade it in for a fish or hybrid fish so I still have something small & light to take overseas.

actually mick leaning and falling off is more of a technical problem then the long board its self.

its just that you can get away with it on a short board.

its one of the reasons a few years ago i bit the bullet and got some coaching for a little bit. once i gasped the concept of what p/surfing was about and understood the basic principles, well it sets you up for life.

not saying i don't stuff up be any means, but now i know why

I can't ride a short board but have seen lots of short boarders do a lot of paddling across the wave to find the sweet spot on the wave for takeoff and just drop onto the wave, long boarders seem to paddle harder in the same direction as the wave to catch it.

Not Really saying short boarders can't ride long boards, just noting some differences.

zarb said...
I recently got back onto the SB for the big swell that hit here. It was weird at first standing up on the shorter board, but was able to get in some massive hacks once up and going

Then went back to LB once the surf calmed down and I really struggled to 'surf delicately' to get up to the nose, also getting some good turns in. Could be due to the classic single fin nature of my LB. Might have better luck on a more progressive style LB.

So at least for me; LB to SB is much easier than SB to LB.

Hey Zarb.
What was the topic? Too busy pissin myself watching yout avatar. Thats Gold!!

^ Boo

SP said...
I agree it does, since I've had my new fish Ive hardly ridden the LB, don't even put it in the car anymore...

yeeeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwww
heard on the grape vine that the phantom asea is buying a shorty as we speak

62mac said...
^ Boo

Presidential Boo....

I still put the mid length in most days.

thePup said...
^^^^
Brother Aseaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

nope