Get a JP

i agree with 555. you can just seal a crack they will never be truly sealed, your better off to cut it out, get expansible foam and a epoxy fiberglass kit, and if you need it to look nice maby a can of automotive spray paint and a plastic primer.

Thanks guys for all for your advice.
Too much epoxy,carbon,foam and magnets for my liking...
I might just take it to the shop

quote:

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Originally posted by Juice

Good advice from 555,jordo and pc.
5 min araldite would form a better seal than the putty but both will crack easily when hit again.

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What if I drill a small hole at the end of each crack and file away any jagged edges, leaving a small slot. Then fill with Araldite?

Dont use expanding foam. It will melt the foam due to a chemical reaction. Similar too ,polyester resin. go the epoxy !

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark _australia

None of you know what you are talking about. Don't get upset yet .... I mean beeecause Grinchy has not told us what it looks like yet.

Dude is it a crack as in 0.5mm wide at most and 20mm long? That is different to a slightly larger crack surrounded by a depressed area, smaller cracks radiating outwards and an area say 10mm x 50mm which is noticeably soft.

I assume the latter. If it was the former, a dab of epoxy on the outside would be fine cos it is probably more a crack in the paint and one layer of glass and may be still watertight.

Grinchy it is not hard, don't be put off by the technical terms and the list of equipment or finishing products. It will be $20 for a 2part epoxy like West system (105 & 206) and a small bag of about 1cup of Q cell is about $5 from a WS shop. It is not expensive, and that will do you for a number of small ding fills. It is piss easy give it a go.

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Thanks Mark.

I'll take a pic of the area tonight and post it tomorrow. The damage is quite small and probably doesnt need filling.

I've done repairs with a ding stick so should be able to manage an epoxy repair.

Gaz

Whats flow coat ? Is is a paint or a resin ?

if your board is made from epoxy dont use flowcoat. flowcoat is polyester resin with heaps of pigment added so its incompatable.

you can put epoxy on polyester flowcoat but not the other way around....



just chamfer the crack back with grinder through the damaged area out 50mm on either side. then fill any deep gouges with qcell/microfibre/microballons/talc (depending on cost and if you give a **** about weight)

so now you have a area which should glass that is like this shape but blunter angles. (the filler is just filling any voids that wouldnt glass
/
\_________/

(not as deep.)

then just laminate with epoxy some rectangles of glass like 2 six ounces (cloth weight) or so

after grind back flat

fill weave of glass with filler

fair

mask rectangle wider than all sanding scratches

sand shine off up to tape (so paint will stick)

undercoat

sand undercoat flat (ie get rid of brush strokes)

mask new rectangle slightly wider than undercoat and again sand off shine

sprey 2 pack with touch up gun 2-3 coats





or just stop after glassing but sand off jagged edges first....

sorry for ridiculusly in depth reply been at work all day

yeah sorry about that.

its actually pretty easy, i work part time for a boat builder and im an idiot and i can do it.

i still would suggest putting layer of glass over it as filler will just chip off.

if you want really easy fix just sand area chopp strand glass it with epoxy then sand of jagged bits.

make sure if board is made from epoxy use epoxy especially if styrofoam core as polyester resin will eat styrofoam

All fixed.

I used a ding stick and car spray paint. You can't see the fix unless you look really close.

I remember a windsurf shop in the canaries and some guy showing me how tough their boards were. Can't remember the name now (fish something)
He had a demo board that he used to whap the crap out of with a hammer (yes a hammer). It would cause a ding in the board and then he'd get a hair dryer out and it would pop back with no structural damage to the skin.
My mate used to do the custom paint jobs on them and confirmed to me the boards were mega strong and it wasnt just a gimmick.
The boards were carbon skinned.
I want a board like that!!!
Not one that gets a whiff of a mast or boom and decides to split!!

quote:

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Originally posted by Juice

Theres a particular brand of pvc foam that doesn't crack and fracture like the cheaper ones ---

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Hmm sounds like airex or corecell.
all except my latest boards have airex decks, I haven't tried a heat gun on the dents, I'll give it a go, but not too hot!!!

But they're glass decks, not carbon, not sure if carbon would dent without fracturing, think it's too brittle.

witchcraft.nu/

These are the indestructible boards!

He's stil going strong after 10 years.

quote:

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Originally posted by demons_taipan11

who is that on your avatar grinch??? your wife!??? haha

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Nope! It's me, ya perv!

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark _australia

that's y I asked what it looks like........ he said "crack" and if it is 2mm x 40mm in a non load bearing area like the nose, there is no need for the above complexity. All that reply does is make people think "jeez that is hard" and go to a shop where they pay $50- $100 to have a crack bogged and painted.... thinking they are paying for the above process when a lot of the time they are NOT.

Better off starting doing the easy ones yourself with epoxy and q-cell. Later on the left over epoxy is used for larger repairs needing glass cloth work.

Grinch post that pic and then we can advise.

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Mark, et al,
Rude of me not to reply.
Thank you for all your help..

I got some before and after pics (not of me). I'll post then tonight when I get home.

Thanks all of you for your inputs. I hated taking to my nice new board with my "NEW" dremel (bunnings copy) drill.

Gaz