Another board repair question

6 months ago
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onshoreroy
onshoreroy
61 posts
61 posts
11 Dec 2025 6:39am
I've got a small puncture-about 4 mm-on the bottom of my board. I've filled the hole with resin, but I'm wondering: can I lay a small piece of fiberglass over the repair without[/b] sanding off the paint first? Or will it not bond properly?
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23691 posts
WA, 23691 posts
11 Dec 2025 10:51am
Nooo
gotta sand it
onshoreroy
onshoreroy
61 posts
61 posts
11 Dec 2025 5:00pm
Sand it or sand the paint off down to black stuff
onshoreroy
onshoreroy
61 posts
61 posts
11 Dec 2025 5:00pm
Thanks, sand it or sand the paint off down to black stuff ?
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23691 posts
WA, 23691 posts
11 Dec 2025 6:25pm
Paint off. dont sand till you hit black you may not find it lol
it will be obvious when paint then undercoat /primer is gone and you hit filler coat / laminate
Muppet
Muppet
WA
124 posts
WA, 124 posts
11 Dec 2025 7:43pm
onshoreroy said..
I've got a small puncture-about 4 mm-on the bottom of my board. I've filled the hole with resin, but I'm wondering: can I lay a small piece of fiberglass over the repair without[/b] sanding off the paint first? Or will it not bond properly?


Sounds a little excessive for a 4mm puncture to me.
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23691 posts
WA, 23691 posts
11 Dec 2025 7:51pm
I agree but just filling a hole with resin it may not bond to the paint in the depression. So with no prep before fill, yeah now I'd glass it
jn1
jn1
SA
2765 posts
jn1 jn1
SA, 2765 posts
13 Dec 2025 12:01am
I had an accident with a kiter last month. Here is my quick fix: Epoxy injection with a syringe. Board back on water the next afternoon. I didn't bother fixing up the 30cm harness hook mark, so has a story to tell now.





Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23691 posts
WA, 23691 posts
13 Dec 2025 8:20pm
Yes it works but not without considering heat. can melt the core

prob better off with UV cure resin to fill, then sand n glass. Still back on water next day
jn1
jn1
SA
2765 posts
jn1 jn1
SA, 2765 posts
14 Dec 2025 10:17am
Yes agree. One has to be very careful and very sure they know what they're doing (and confirm this by testing to get to know the product).

Thanks for tip with the UV resin.
DI7
DI7
30 posts
DI7 DI7
30 posts
15 Dec 2025 12:51am
Or just use very slow epoxy - too keep the temperature of the chemical reaction low enough.
Manuel7
Manuel7
1351 posts
1351 posts
19 Dec 2025 6:03am
Depending how much resin? If the area around is soft, better to inject something first. Trim/sand excess then resin if area doesn't see stress.
49 posts
23 Dec 2025 5:31am
I've had a lot of success with Solarez for repairs like that, which have held up permanently.

I don't use Solarez according to the instructions though. No sanding back, etc. I clean the damaged area with IPA thoroughly, then put Solarez on directly in liquid form to fill the crack / depression in the board (with a cotton bud) and do this very gently and very neatly . Next - I take the board outside on a cloudy day and gently 'work' the Solarez to exactly match the shape of the surrounding board surface with my fingers as it sets. Solarez goes malleable and putty-like in daylight after about 20 secs or so - on a cloudy day. Better still, 'working' it this way gently with fingers actually leaves a matt finish when it finally sets, which is virtually invisible.

I know this is a completely unorthodox approach, but I've found this 'hybrid' method with Solarez really works for me and, importantly, avoids the need to sand back a massive area and do an ugly respray.

I've repaired multiple cracks like this up to ~5mm diameter or thinish ones ~30mm long, with absolutely no problems 1000s kms later. Some of these repairs are so invisible I haven't even bothered to touch them up, but if needed just a tiny dab of matched paint and a small brush does the job.
jn1
jn1
SA
2765 posts
jn1 jn1
SA, 2765 posts
23 Dec 2025 10:03am
My only concern with that method is it's not a plug, and if repair is bottom of board where it flexes, then water could creep underneath the repair and get in board. But, if you're repair is clear (it's clear right ?), and you can see what's going on over time, then all good. I'm a lazy basdard now. Whatever's functional. So I'll give your method a go next time.
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