Hi All,

I have an old Starboard GO 180L... one of the first of this board (around 8-10 years old??). Recently I was removing it and my smaller board off the roof of the car. I got the small board off, and an unexpected big gust came through before I could get back to the big board and blew it off the roof onto the carpark ground (hard!!) from a height of about 2m. The board was in a cushioned bag. I thought it was going to be trashed, but I pulled it out and it looked OK, so I sailed with it.

I later had a closer look and discovered some damage. The board must have hit the flat ground on the side (soft rail) a few feet from the front of the board. It looks like the previous owner of the board previously had a repair exactly in this location as it is obviously repainted here (brush!!). Anyway, it looks like the curved soft rail side of the board hit pretty much square on to the large and flat object of the ground. As a result it must have pushed in where it hit slightly, so now the paint is cracked along the side above and below the impact point. It seems that the impact pushed the board in a little, and created a small crease in the outer shell that cracked the paint and possibly the outer shell. The only resulting evidence is the two cracked paint areas. I cannot tell if that result is that the board shell is compromised and leaking.

This board is not expensive, but it is useful. I don't care what it looks like, but I don't want to ruin it by filling it with water. Can anyone advise how I can determine if the board is leaking through the cracks, and if it is, I would like to repair it as cheap as possible. Again, I am not worried about aesthetics, but I had in mind to sand it backdry it out as mush as possible, apply some resin to the areas of the cracks, and maybe a layer of matt, and then sand it smooth and apply some paint from a spray pack, but any advice appreciated!! Alternatively, if someone can recommend a local (Sydney) repairer that can do this for me cheaply, that would be even better!!

Thanks,

Adrian

If there's serious damage to the shell, you will feel the difference with your fingers. Press an undamaged section of rail, and the damaged section. If it's much softer, then the easiest way to fix it, is to sand back over the area, and put on 2 or 3 of layers of fibreglass, won't be as strong as original. but that will keep the water out. I you want to restore it to original strength, then all the damaged part of the shell needs to be removed and rebuilt.
If the rail doesn't feel any softer, the shell is probably OK, but I'd still sand it back and put on at least 1 layer of glass.

'Boardlady' is definitely the go for excellent step by step instructions. I think she underdoes the health warnings though....

Epoxy resin can be very detrimental for your health. So... you must also invest in a very good industrial grade breathing apparatus (none of that paper mask crap) to avoid inhaling the particles when you sand back. And get a box of those thin blue vinyl gloves while you are down at your local safety shop - these help to avoid any resin or sanding particles on your hands. I wish I'd known about all this before embarking on repairs.

This quote below from LSD in his post on the SUP forum last year frightened the wits out of me - I think everybody who contemplates repairs should read this:

There is Nothing to to be confused about regarding epoxy toxisity, the bad component is the hardener......TREAT IT LIKE DOG **** it absorbes through the skin..& THROUGH CHEAP GLOVES! The type of gloves to use are Nitrile, the pretty blue ones.
When I'm doing a 30' yacht hull in one go I will have barrier cream on first, then 2 pairs of gloves, & I will work into an air flow. Epoxy has far less fume than polyester, but it can eventualy sensitise throat/lungs
Epoxy Sensitivity
Here are some quotes from other users with allergy experience.
It's a growing collection e-mails about this thread on various forums.
Beware, this is not a cheerful reading matter.

Anyone and everyone eventually becomes sensitized to epoxy - that is the problem. Dust from sanding, fumes and direct exposure all are problem areas

The usual route is direct exposure - that's why you see the professionals in the white suits masks etc. Follow their routine, sweat like mad - but don't become sensitive

Q: I've read that exposure to epoxy leads to allergic sensitization, but haven't read what kind of sensitization occurs.

A: Contact dermatitis is by far the most common. Caused mostly by skin exposure to the hardener, but also to a lesser extent to the resin.

Q: Has any member on the list been sensitized to epoxy?

A: Many. You can actually become sensitized the *first* time you are exposed to uncured epoxy.

Q: Will cured epoxy dust cause sensitization?

A: Dust *always* contains small amounts of uncured hardener and resin...

Q: What are the symptoms of sensitization?

A: Covered by others. These reports are *not* exaggerated and *are* typical.

Q: How is it treated?

A: Permanent distance from uncured hardener and resin is the only certain cure. Understand, this means if you get sensitized, you *leave* the boatbuilding business--or suffer horribly, as related here.

Q: How long does treatment last?

A: Only so long as you stay away from epoxy. It's for life.

*Always* suit up. *Always* wear a quality mask (not a paper one...). *Always* wear gloves, and change them often. If you can, use resin systems designed for home builders, such as WEST or System III. These use the least toxic resins and hardeners available. Do some hard research into epoxy toxicity. WEST and System III spend a lot of time and energy educating their customers. Check them out.