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Crash Landing
Crash Landing
NSW
1173 posts
NSW, 1173 posts
18 Jan 2007 11:45am
I know I keep asking about board repair tips, and they're all great but I've got a real problem now...

I bought some Ocean & Earth UV Cure EPOXY resin to fix the nose of my board. It was a fair sized damaged area so thought I'd fill the area with some fast setting epoxy then once it was dry build up to the original profile with a stronger glass sheet. Well I put the sun cure epoxy on the board and left it in the sun for a couple of hours (with the plug removed). I got back after work and found the epoxy still very tacky and worse still it seemed to have thinned in the sun and ran all over my board (right over a load of masking tape...

4 days later and it's still tacky, Ocean & Earth have offered to send me another tube in case it was faulty, but they have no answer to how i can get the old stuff off!

So do I:

1. try to remove it with acetone
2. try to remove it with a blade of some sort
3. leave it and glass over the top and hope for the best
4. force Ocean & Earth to pay for a professional board repairer to clear up the mess?

I've used the polyester kit on surfboards for a quick fix and it's been great. I thought the epoxy version would be a great windsurfing quick fix option....

Any help, as always, greatly appreciated!
Harrow
Harrow
NSW
4521 posts
NSW, 4521 posts
18 Jan 2007 12:32pm
Crash,

I have no idea what I am talking about, but I have heard that you shouldn't let any acetone or acetone based product near your board, as it will dissolve the foam core of your board in a flash. If you want a demo, paint a bit of nail polish (I'm sure you'll have some laying around ) on some EPS packaging. You'll get the idea pretty quickly.

Regards,
Harrow.
June.
June.
WA
51 posts
WA, 51 posts
18 Jan 2007 10:36am
I have had the same problem with the UV curing resins: works well with the polyester resin (sets in minutes in the sun) but terrible results with the epoxy version (took about a week to set). Not sure what brand it was.

Now I just use the 2 part epoxy putty for quick repairs instead: it is cheap, easily available in hardware stores, easy to work with and always sets quickly. You can also get a version of the epoxy putty that sets underwater in case you want to get straight back into sailing.

I would use a utility knife to scrape off all of the unset resin. I wouldn't plaster over the top as it may never set.
Crash Landing
Crash Landing
NSW
1173 posts
NSW, 1173 posts
18 Jan 2007 1:03pm
thanks for the info.

i know of the putty, but it always looks a right mess so thought the UV stuff would make a much better repair which could be sanded once i got home. Obviously I was wrong.

very interesting to hear that you have had good results with polyester but not epoxy.

looks like i have a nice and messy job to do this evening.

when you said it took a week to set, did you leave in the sun for the whole time?
June.
June.
WA
51 posts
WA, 51 posts
18 Jan 2007 11:22am
It probably only had a few hours each day in the sun as the courtyard didn't get sun all day.

If you have a white board you can spray over the repair using a can of white epoxy paint, alternatively you can try to match it with a can of car touch up paint but this is not so robust.

The epoxy putty is very tough to sand so try to get the repair as flush to the board surface as possible.
Jethrow
Jethrow
NSW
1282 posts
NSW, 1282 posts
18 Jan 2007 1:23pm
Hi Guys

I'm not sure of the products you are talking about but if it's taking more that a day to go off then you are not getting the propper properties and will not have good strength caracteristics.
Bails
Bails
WA
158 posts
WA, 158 posts
18 Jan 2007 11:32am
I had this problem once fixing my board, I think due to faulty catalyst. If you can get O&E to fix it, great, but you will have a problem proving that it wasn't your fault (ie incorrect ratio of epoxy to catalyst).

I got a disc sander with an old disc and just sanded it. It was not easy because it clogged the disc. Depends on how tacky your epoxy is. Try putting a heater next to it for a day or so.
June.
June.
WA
51 posts
WA, 51 posts
18 Jan 2007 11:52am
In these particular resins the catalyst is the UV radiation from the sun, not a chemical additive.

(perhaps you could take your board into one of those tanning salons and stick it under one of their UV lamps ...)
Revhead
Revhead
ACT
372 posts
ACT, 372 posts
18 Jan 2007 4:52pm
So has Crash lived up to his name?
Kremlin
Kremlin
418 posts
418 posts
18 Jan 2007 2:59pm
Comrade Crash
I had same problem a while agao... I even tried helping it set with hot hair dryer and spot lights for creating more herat.
In end I scarpped off with heavy grade sandpapaer and found that while top was still tacky bottom was hard...
I also got replacement tube from O&E and have used them and they work very well, very quick quick for certain.
Could be it has been sitting round for long time before you buy him.
Scrape off and try again with new tube
Crash Landing
Crash Landing
NSW
1173 posts
NSW, 1173 posts
18 Jan 2007 6:30pm
Kremlin,

They're sending me a new pack out as we speak so hopefully it works this time!!
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23684 posts
WA, 23684 posts
18 Jan 2007 8:12pm
Take the free pack, and chuck it. Sorry.

If you have to buy resin anyway to do the glassing (West 105 with 206 hardener would be my tip) then you can use the resin to make a filler. Mix the resin with Q-cell or microballoons until it is a thick paste and use that to make up the volume. Using the Q-cell only adds $10 to what materials you have to buy anyway!

The resin made into a filler will be much easier to sand anyway.
CJW
CJW
NSW
1731 posts
CJW CJW
NSW, 1731 posts
18 Jan 2007 10:59pm
Mark is bang on the money, if you're repairing a big ding use West system 105 with 206 hardener. For small dings I just use 'aqua need it', it's the two part epoxy putty you can get at Bunnings that sets in water ;) What ever you do DO NOT put polyester resin anywhere near a polystyrene cored board or you can say goodnight to your core; you'll be left with an eggshell and a throughly rooted board
easty
easty
TAS
2213 posts
TAS, 2213 posts
18 Jan 2007 11:50pm
yep, west system epoxy is the go, and as mark says, use Q Cell. I have just dug out huge craters from my board to dry out saturated foam, (from a sneaky unseen crack), and mixing up the Q Cell with the west system worked a treat. By the way, if you haven't seen Q Cell before, as I hadn't until a week ago, it's amazing stuff - a powder so fine that when it's in a container it acts like a liquid. mix it in with the resin until it's getting thickish, it'll start getting warm, plug it in your hole, sand off the next morning, and bob's your uncle.
decrepit
decrepit
WA
12884 posts
WA, 12884 posts
18 Jan 2007 10:05pm
If it's just a small area you want to fill 5 min araldite sets reasonably clear. (araldite is epoxy).

AS said acetone disolves foam, but it also isn't much good disolving epoxy!
Try vinegar for cleaning up the excess on the glass area. I don't think it will damage the foam, but I'd keep it away from the repair area, could make a big mess.

Mackay
Mackay
NSW
78 posts
NSW, 78 posts
19 Jan 2007 12:32am
Mark and Easty are spot on for big dings. Make sure you've got a lunch box or something similar to store your Q-Cells in after you open the bag. They are so light and small, any sort of breath of air sends them flying. I paid about $35 for both Part A,Part B and the Q-cells. I've fixed three boards and I've still got heaps left. I mix it in plastic cups and use plastic spoons to load it in. You will always have some left in the cup to see when it has set properly.
If it is humid or cold, it may take a day to set with the slow hardeners (206). After it sets, I use a file to get roughly level then sand and paint( the girl at supercheap lets me take the cans out side to colour match in the sun direct to the board). A couple of $5 spring or ratchet clamps from bunnings help a lot as well. Good Luck!
Kremlin
Kremlin
418 posts
418 posts
19 Jan 2007 8:14am
Yar yar Comrades Mark and Easty are very much on the money for certain when speaking of repairings for big dings... I only use the epoxy suncure for small 'travel' dings.
This sola cure epoxy is of much better quality than aquaneed from bunnings in my opinion.
Aqua need does not set 'fully' hard - by this I is menaing if it is using him on fins it not stay as the flex from fin see aquaneed peel off... not so with epoxy suncure.
You must be making sure sun is out when using of this suncure. I fix small chip in board within 3 minute (tacky) and good for sanding of him within 6 min.
Also epoxy suncure is much betterer for of the sanding to get smooth than aquaneed.... aquaneed also set funny off white colour with blue tint.... solar cure, he set clear and very smooth with 800 wet and dry. After of that a little psst psst from white spary pack and 1600 wet and dry for feathering of paint work and you not notice him at all.
Back to questions at hand... If big repair west system epoxy and q cell is the going for best yar, little repairs (like when travelling) epoxy suncure is good... BUT just be making sure he set properly first.... put small amount on piece of plastic or stick or dog or friends hair when they not knowing and leave in sun for 5 minute... if he set then you make repairs on board and laugh at your friend/dog ect ect.... if he not set you laugh muchly at everyone walking past who getting stick or plastic with unset epoxy stucking to their feet.
I thinking that maybe a bad batch of suncure was being made... the first batch I got (big tube) he not setting, the replacement (3 little tubes) he set very quick quick
Crash Landing
Crash Landing
NSW
1173 posts
NSW, 1173 posts
19 Jan 2007 11:05am
Kremlin,

I thought to do the experiment with the new batch - put it on something and see if it sets.. Wish I'd done that in the first place!

I have all of the epoxy you other guys were talking about and the Q cells which I would usually use. My plan was to fill the deeper section, let it dry in the sun in 5 minutes then mix up regular epoxy and use glass cloth (as it is the nose and I want extra structural strength). i thought I could get it all done in one evening then sand it the next day. I have found it difficult in the past to do a filler job then glass over the top with cloth, without getting sag (even with Q cells).

Thanks for all the advice, I'm hoping to fix it for the weekends NE's...
Revhead
Revhead
ACT
372 posts
ACT, 372 posts
19 Jan 2007 2:43pm
Yeah, and next time aim for the boogy boarder without the helmet...
Crash Landing
Crash Landing
NSW
1173 posts
NSW, 1173 posts
19 Jan 2007 4:00pm
Revhead, how did you know?!?

To be fair the board was damaged before i bought it so i got it on the cheap... thought it would be worth fixing it.

Just to let you know, 4 days with the epoxy in the sun and it's still tacky. So "3 minute cure" is more like 24 hours's in direct sunlight cure - if it is dry by the time i get home!
Haircut
Haircut
QLD
6491 posts
QLD, 6491 posts
19 Jan 2007 11:52pm
quote:
Originally posted by Kremlin

Yar yar Comrades Mark and Easty are very much on the money for certain when speaking of repairings for big dings... I only use the epoxy suncure for small 'travel' dings.


it's just not the same without the accent
Kremlin
Kremlin
418 posts
418 posts
19 Jan 2007 11:59pm
Comrade Haircut
What is this accent you speaking of ?
I have good Australian accent for certain yar, my comrades saying of this too me often times
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