Yes I know it sounds like a lavalife profile
but no what I really mean is....
I think I rode the biggest wave of my life today.... mast and a bit, about 20ft face. Strewth.
Was one of the freaky ones, most of this arvo was head hi to 3/4 mast, had to really search for a mast hi one but then all of a sudden...wow!
Yes, 10ft face and hollow hurts more and breaks more gear (my bigg'un today was pretty fat n crumbly) but getting chased by 20ft of thunder when you are only just planing is kinda scary.
Love it.
