ey, im new to this forum, 17, been winsurfing for bout 3 years woked my way from the bottom...

just wondering how to approch a jibe how do u set your self up? wat do u have to do with your sail/board?

also water starts (not on water edge) out in the open... when i fall off..i turn the boad round to face away from wind and sheet the sail and floating waiting from wind to pull me up how do i stop the sail ova powering me and pull me over the board? keep fall off and get frustraited then i have a bad sailing day!!

any video would help..
cheers,

gidday stubs welcome.

decrepit is totally on the money but i thuoght i might break it down a bit further.

the carve.
1. keep knees bent.
2. place back foot on leeward rail behind front strap
3. rock body weight forward onto the balls of your feet. (lean forward)
4. push your hips into the turn. (this keeps your upper body over the board)
5. the rig will also have been pushed forward as well and leant into the turn. leaving the rig raked back will make you stall.
6. place back foot near mast base after you pass downwind.

the rig flip (keep your body forward and hips into turn while rig flip occurs)

7. as you switch your feet and feel the rig loose pressure push your sheet hand out to throw the clew away from you.
8. cross your old back hand over your front hand and grab the boom again about 30cm from the mast on the new side.
(you will now be on a broadreach having passed through dead downwind)
9. with new front hand yank rig towards the nose of the board past your head.
10. grab boom with new back hand and sheet in.
11. pull down on boom to keep pressure on mast foot by hanging off boom and keeping knees bent.
(you will now be finishing the carve)
move body weight back and into straps while you begin beam reach.
12. hook in again.
13. grin.

Simon huurey's website is excellent for learning stuff.
http://www.simonhurrey.com/

just be aware there is 2 types of carve gybe. the step gybe outlined above and the strap to strap gybe.


waterstarts.

don't try and start in a broadreach postition. get the mast perpendicular to the wind. see all the other stuff already posted.

you only put the sail in a broadreach postion if you are using really big race sails in lighter winds.

thanks guys ill try it out
happy windsurfing!

Yes thinking a bout it, I wave sail with back foot in strap, and some bottom turns would be half way throu a gybe. Must give it a try, the only thing that concerns me, is getting the back foot stuck in the strap, sometimes if I leave front foot in too long I have trouble getting out, because of body twist.

Hmm... I think I disagree with all you guys about setup for a gybe.
We are talking about learning your first planing gybes I guess. That's true isn't it Lyndon? So first, if you wanna learn to do a planing gybe it's far and away best to do it in smooooth water, not in the bumps. And given the elusive nature of that first planing gybe it's worthwhile seeking out perfect conditions, namely smooth water behind a sand bar or something and steady wind in the optimum wind range for your favorite rig between 5.0 and 6.5.

The second general truth is keeping your speed up is key. The best and easiest way to carry speed into and through a turn is to set up for your gybe as follows.
a) From blasting along on a beam reach as (comfortably) fast as you can,(ie fully sheeted in, hanging out, and just flying over the ripply water) bear away a bit into the turn. Stay sheeted in, hanging out, powered up.
b) Then - Hands, Hook, Foot. ie move your back hand a fair way back on the boom. Turn your front hand palm up if you are going to do that "spin the rig" type quick rig flip, or palm down if you are going to do that "mast wobble" type flip that goes with a step gybe. Now you have your hands in the right place you can unhook. Before during and after unhooking you remain sheeted in hanging out and powered up. After you unhook it is easiest to drop your bum and hang out like a monkey to keep your powered up trim.
b) Take your back foot out and place it in front of the opposite back foot strap. You don't change your trim at all if you can possibly avoid it. Just sort of stretch your back foot over to the other rail with a more or less straight leg. (as before stay sheeted in, hangin out and powered up)
c) Apply a bit of toe pressure to that back foot by pushing the ball of your foot down but don't, absolutely do not bring your weight inboard to weight that rail. Just pressure on the toes while hangin out and sheeted in will get the board footsteering downwind in a nice wide fast arc.
This is the end of the setup and gybe entry.

The next bit goes:
a) Keep flying through that wide arc downwind 'till you get to a point that feels like catapult territory. You feel the rig pulling you forward, so you let it pull you forward in a nice smooth transition from hanging out into your carving position. ie Weight comes over the board, knees bent, hips forward, the whole of the sole of your back foot becomes weighted and engaged in steering the board. Your upper body addresses a direction of about 1.30 if its a starboard gybe (or 10.30 port)and you look in the direction of your exit. You will exit on a somewhat downwind direction on your new tack. Your upper body is more or less erect perp to the deck of your board which is banked over. Your front arm stretches forward tipping the rig as far forward as you can without bending over while your back hand sheets right in to totally depower it. The rig too is more or less perp to the deck, just leaning a bit more into the turn. The rig is held away from the bod with the front hand and over-sheeted with the back hand. You know it's in the right position if it feels like its not there. It's not pulling at all and its tipped forward more or less balancing over the mast foot. You should have your weight forward, more so for trad board shapes than wide boards. Just try varying your forward lean until you find the sweet spot for your particular board. When I say forward lean I don't mean to suggest you should bend at the waist. Try to avoid that. Moving your weight forward is achieved by distributing more weight to your front foot which if done improperly will just make you lose your carve and veer back the other way. You have to engage your front foot in its footstrap so it's weighted but holding the board at its carving angle. You can probably appreciate that you can not put a lot of weight on the front foot. This is a fairly subtle thing that nevertheless moves your weight forward an appreciable amount. Another thing you can do to move your weight forward is to push down on your booms. However you lose this pressure as soon as you flip the rig and the board will bobble quite a bit when you do. For this reason its a good idea not to rely on boom pressure for your first few. Incidentally the advantage of the step gybe is precisely that it almost but not quite eliminates this bobble so you are free to rely on boom pressure.
b) So there you are carving in perfect form and tightening up your turn radius as you go. Before you know it you have to flip the rig. Up to this point the gybe is the same for a classic carve or a step gybe (apart from your front hand being palm up or down.) For the sake of simplicity the classic carve is the one to go for first. Others may disagree but then they don't believe in global warming either. The classic carve is simpler. Its common sense to try it first. The "spin the rig" type rig flip works really well for the classic carve with sails up to about 7.0. Bigger than that is far from ideal for learning planing gybes anyway. So "spin the rig" it is. Don't move your feet anywhere. Just keep 'em where they are carving the board. Throw the clew of the sail (back hand) away from you with moderate vigor. Bigger sails require more oomph. Immediately after that, like within a half a heart beat your front hand flicks the front of the rig so the mast goes right past your nose. If done properly the rig will spin around on the mast foot completely hands free for a moment. The boom will present itself on the new side. Don't look at it just keep looking at your exit. You can see plenty with your peripheral vision. It really helps to keep your attention on your exit. Don't look at anything else. Just grab the boom any way that seems easiest - ideally both hands palm down either side of the harness, but the boom may not present in an ideal position for that. Now you can apply some downward pressure on the booms and just hop your feet around however it suits you. You can't sheet in immediately, you just push down on the booms without sheeting in as you swap your feet then you sheet in, hook in and accelerate away.

Well thats about it. In the bumpy water of real world conditions you can't set up and enter the gybe quite like that, but then planing gybes are much more elusive in real world conditions.

Thanks NotWal,

Lovely description of the weight transfer. Can't wait to try it out...

However I don't understand this bit:

quote:

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Your upper body addresses a direction of about 1.30 if its a starboard gybe (or 10.30 port)and you look in the direction of your exit.

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So you mean you don't get your weight over and to the inside of the turn? Or does a starboard gybe mean a gybe you exit on starboard?

me thinks i will give notwals method a go as well.....

let us know what you think decrepit.

Neb wrote
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However I don't understand this bit:

quote:
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Your upper body addresses a direction of about 1.30 if its a starboard gybe (or 10.30 port)and you look in the direction of your exit.
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Neb, I meant that in a gybe to starboard form port tack (left hand forward on the original tack)your bod faces a direction at about 1.30

quote:

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Originally posted by Gestalt

me thinks i will give notwals method a go as well.....

let us know what you think decrepit.

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Well powered up yesterday so I gave it a go.
Chickened out just as I went into it, self preservation took over.
I was really worried about twisting my back ankle, guess I'm just getting too old and set in my ways.