Step method is easier
Feet in straps harder

Bottom line is you will never truly achieve a 'planing all the way round' carve gybe if you step.
The board will always wobble and sink.

Take the plunge and keep your feet in until you flip that rig.

Bloody hell Paddy, you at carve level already
Clever vegemite, very clever.
Mate, am I lagging behind then

Mineral

Paddy, was down there Sunday before Easter. Yes its the place to learn
Normally sail at Pinneroo, and that's "not" the place to learn. choppy as all f...
During week, go to Lucky bay from work.

Mineral

Hey Paddy,

Both methods work and it comes down to what you feel more comfotable doing. Those who say you can't plane out of a step gybe mean "they" can't plane out of a step gybe. The step gybe IS the preferred technique for super fast slalom gybing, just watch the racers! It allows you to get your weight forward to keep the nose down and your speed up. The trick is to do the change smoothly without interrupting the carve. An early foot change and initiation of sail flip (before dead downwind) and concentrating on a smooth carve both before and after the sail flip will have you fanging through flatwater gybes (remember to lean forward and keep your knees bent - goes for both methods). Strap to strap gybes are great for tight gybes or gybing onto a wave but if you're learning then you'll probably keep droping off the plane 'cause your weight is too far back. But both methods are good and necessary so just pick one to start with and go for it...but my advice would be if you want to plane out of gybes then learn the step gybe first!

There are heaps of other posts on the forum on gybing which should also help you out.

This link is a response I've given before: www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26548

Good luck, have fun and let us know how you go.

Cheers,

Fletch

No Worries Nebs.

I don't know if you have done a duck gybe yet but give them a go as well.
You will amaze yourself!
I thought they were in the realm of 'pros' till I pulled one off on my first try.
Now I think why did i waste all those yrs..

Me and Jonno (windsurfing247) are determined to nail forwards this year.
But every time we go to the beach we find SOME excuse. It's all about getting out of your comfort zone I think.

GT at about same level as you. 130 will allow you a bit more stability, however the 98 I have only used twice as it was at season end, turned so much easier than the 130. That is I felt you can push it about easier than the 130. Mind you I still cant get it right
Big hint,(and knowing you have an eye on a flash new one) if you want to get to this stage, stick to a board that should you bang and crash it it wont feel as bad as if you do it to a "new" board then when you get the feel, switch then

I still reckon ur better off doing strap to strap

i am not sure i agree with that one decrepit but understand where you're coming from.

i think it is more if the conditions are very choppy then strap to strap gybe is the go.

on flattish water step gybes rule. watch the fast guys on the race course. they are doing step gybes almost all the time. i think if you want to come out of gybes fully planing then forget the strap to strap.

quote:

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Originally posted by Gestalt



i think it is more if the conditions are very choppy then strap to strap gybe is the go.

on flattish water step gybes rule. watch the fast guys on the race course. they are doing step gybes almost all the time. i think if you want to come out of gybes fully planing then forget the strap to strap.

---

Just a clarification here, by "strap to strap" I mean taking back foot out before gybe, putting it behind new frontstrap, then as coming out of gybe pivot on heel and slide into new front strap, then old front foot goes into back strap. I'm not talking about keeping both feet in the straps until change over.

Guess equipment conditions play a role here, and until this challenge started I've only been on wave gear, and I haven't seen any good exponents of the step gybe, the only ones I've seen don't come out very fast.
(Might be because they've been done so well I haven't noticed)
My fastest fully planing gybes are strap to strap, exit the gybe in straps and sheeted in, hooked in very shortly after.

Must admit I had a bit of trouble with Hardy's wide boards, and outboard straps, but put that down to feet not knowing where the straps are.
You probably don't want to get into those outboard straps too early I guess could force the windward rail down too much.
I'll try step gybing next time I'm on one and see if it helps.
At least with "alpha" technology I'll have hard evidence of what's happening.

quote:

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Originally posted by decrepit

quote:

---

Originally posted by Gestalt



i think it is more if the conditions are very choppy then strap to strap gybe is the go.

on flattish water step gybes rule. watch the fast guys on the race course. they are doing step gybes almost all the time. i think if you want to come out of gybes fully planing then forget the strap to strap.

---

Just a clarification here, by "strap to strap" I mean taking back foot out before gybe, putting it behind new frontstrap, then as coming out of gybe pivot on heel and slide into new front strap, then old front foot goes into back strap. I'm not talking about keeping both feet in the straps until change over.

Guess equipment conditions play a role here, and until this challenge started I've only been on wave gear, and I haven't seen any good exponents of the step gybe, the only ones I've seen don't come out very fast.
(Might be because they've been done so well I haven't noticed)
My fastest fully planing gybes are strap to strap, exit the gybe in straps and sheeted in, hooked in very shortly after.

Must admit I had a bit of trouble with Hardy's wide boards, and outboard straps, but put that down to feet not knowing where the straps are.
You probably don't want to get into those outboard straps too early I guess could force the windward rail down too much.
I'll try step gybing next time I'm on one and see if it helps.
At least with "alpha" technology I'll have hard evidence of what's happening.

---

Decrepit,How come you n me was thinking this is how it goes, and ol mate Gestalt comes up with a two liner that has me thinking and wondering, how come I didn't know that before.
So Gestalt, thanks,
Gestalt you better not be bulls..ing us now, cos I am going to look a dumb pr1ck if you are, for believing you

Dunno, but you convinced me to take another look at the Guy Cribb DVD once more
I sort of remember him doing a strap to strap V a step, but cant recall what he actually did. Only bit I can remember is his "leg muscle memory" thingy he did that got faster and faster, on the board, then on the ground and then laying on his back on the dirt

Gestalt, that all he's got?, Pfffttttt nuthn to it

quote:

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Originally posted by Gestalt



difference with strap to strap is that you come out of the gybe with your feet in switch stance after sheeting in. then you change feet.

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Well I guess that could slow you down, but it seems a strange way of defining the difference between step and strap to strap. Some of my gybes end up that way, but they're better when I come out with feet in the right straps.

see. you think you do it right....butt...


you gotta add the milk before the hot water. that way you don't burn the coffee...... [}:)]

well it all comes down to basic physics.

kettles boil water at 100 deg.
coffee machines operate at 90deg celcius approx.

too hot and the coffee bean oils burn becoming bitter.

an excerpt from makegoodcoffee.com

"coffee can burn after it is heated either at too high a temperature or for too prolonged a period. You want to consider your coffee brewing temperature. Once coffee has burned, the effect on its flavor is worse to some than stale coffee. I would sooner dump an entire pot of burned coffee than drink it. An important factor in the time it takes coffee to burn is certainly the amount of coffee in the pot. A smaller amount of coffee will burn faster than a larger amount."