Repair footstrap plug

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Stretchy
Stretchy
WA
1054 posts
WA, 1054 posts
24 Apr 2011 11:55am
I have an Isonic with stripped out thread for the footstrap. Tried a wall plug with no success so now I'm thinking fill the hole with plastibond or 2 part epoxy and redrill a screw hole.
Right approach??, and which product would you recommend? (.........Mark )
barn
barn
WA
2960 posts
WA, 2960 posts
24 Apr 2011 12:08pm
Find a bigger screw.
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23688 posts
WA, 23688 posts
24 Apr 2011 12:27pm
You must have stripped the bejeezus out of it if you can fit a plastic plug in there now - or did you drill it out so as to fit a plug in?

if you have not drilled it out, as Barn says - bigger screw. Any marine or fixings shop will have stainless screws (like Blackwoods / Searle Fasteners etc). $2.

If you want to fill it and redrill it is do-able but it is real hard to fill a 6-8mm hole with anything as it does not want to dribble down - sits on top with the air pressure below holding it up. You can jiggle a bit of wire in it and eventually work all the resin down but it is 20mins to fill a damn hole.

If you have to fill I think the best option is carbon fibre or fibreglass rod (hobby shops stock it) that is just loose in the hole and epoxy it in, then redrill next to it..... but then you may as well use the next hole in the same insert as you'll only be, what, 15mm off maybe?

EDIT - don't use Plastibond!!!! it is a styrene based resin (like "fibreglass resin") and it melts boards. I am 99.999% sure it would not get thru the footstrap insert but I still would not chance it. If the hole is big enough to get Plastibond in (it is like putty) you'd be able to get JB Weld in, which is a far better product anyway
WindmanV
WindmanV
VIC
825 posts
VIC, 825 posts
24 Apr 2011 5:07pm
Hello, Special,

You might care to have a look at the offering from Starboard: http://www.star-board.com/SpringSummer2011/products/asst_repair.php. The footstrap repair is the second on the list.

For info, the screws used in plastic have a special thread called PT (plastic thread) and they should be available from a specialist bolt/nut supplier or they might be available from your Starboard dealer. Have noted that Starboard have recently gone from 27 to about 30mm-long screws. I would expect that the longer screws also need a longer footstrap plug.

My JP uses 12Gx28mm PT screws as standard and the replacement screws (used if you strip out the thread) are sized 14Gx 28mm PT.

Hope this helps.
barn
barn
WA
2960 posts
WA, 2960 posts
24 Apr 2011 4:31pm
I'm guessing an increase in diameter will solves the problem, Starboard use pretty skinny screws that also snap easily.. When I have a starboard I use thick screws anyway, so thats the 1st thing I'd try..

When they snap off I just use the next hole like Mark said, even though its not rocket science to pull the old screws out I can never be bothered..
Stretchy
Stretchy
WA
1054 posts
WA, 1054 posts
24 Apr 2011 6:03pm
Thanks for the great tips guys. As usual, the simplest solution is usually the best, will search for a larger screw. Good to know about styrene eating products too, I managed to destroy one of the kids boogeyboards using the wrong stuff, so should know better.
I picked up this board cheap 2nd hand and I'm now trying to tidy up a few issues such as the footstraps. There is also a broken screw in another hole which I think will be near impossible to extract.....
Cheers
Rob
barn
barn
WA
2960 posts
WA, 2960 posts
24 Apr 2011 6:53pm
Special said...

There is also a broken screw in another hole which I think will be near impossible to extract.....
Cheers
Rob


It's not impossible, If you can find a Dremel with a small grinding wheel or something similar, you can use it to grind the top of the snapped screw flat, Use a centre punch and then use the skills of a dentist to drill a hole down the center of the screw and reverse tap it out..

I should ad, (for the red thumbers) I don't not do this because I'm to to cool for school, but normally because the screw snaps mid session and to get back on the water I use the next hole.. And fixing it simply slips my mind.. Noobs.
nebbian
nebbian
WA
6277 posts
WA, 6277 posts
24 Apr 2011 7:19pm
barn said...

Special said...

There is also a broken screw in another hole which I think will be near impossible to extract.....
Cheers
Rob


It's not impossible, If you can find a Dremel with a small grinding wheel or something similar, you can use it to grind the top of the snapped screw flat, Use a centre punch and then use the skills of a dentist to drill a hole down the center of the screw and reverse tap it out..

I should ad, (for the red thumbers) I don't not do this because I'm to to cool for school, but normally because the screw snaps mid session and to get back on the water I use the next hole.. And fixing it simply slips my mind.. Noobs.



I'm far from as skilled as a dentist, and the easiest way I've found is just to grind out a flat slot in the remaining thread using a dremel, then use a flat screwdriver to unscrew it. None of this reverse tap or easy out malarky for me
Stretchy
Stretchy
WA
1054 posts
WA, 1054 posts
24 Apr 2011 8:58pm
Geez those dremels must have tiny weeny grinding blades!
jp747
jp747
1553 posts
1553 posts
24 Apr 2011 9:29pm
am about to change as well..was thinking of using coarse thread bolts i might be wrong thouh
WindmanV
WindmanV
VIC
825 posts
VIC, 825 posts
25 Apr 2011 10:08am
"Use a centre punch and then use the skills of a dentist to drill a hole down the center of the screw and reverse tap it out.."

All of the footstrap screws I have seen over the years have been made from stainless steel, which is as hard as the hobs of hell. Without special equipment, you've simply got no hope of drilling it.

Nebbian's idea of slotting the broken screw is pretty good. Dremel's have a range of cutters that will do the job.

Hope this helps.
barn
barn
WA
2960 posts
WA, 2960 posts
25 Apr 2011 9:28am
So apparently I am Lying?

Nebbians shortcut does make more sense but,

Not everybody has a Dremel, me included, but most people have and a drill and a working eye/arm/hand/finger combination.. A screw extractor kit costs about $10.. takes about 3 minutes..


Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23688 posts
WA, 23688 posts
25 Apr 2011 1:29pm
barn said...

most people have and a drill and a working eye/arm/hand/finger combination..




Dunno about that, sometimes people can miss
FormulaNova
FormulaNova
WA
15105 posts
WA, 15105 posts
25 Apr 2011 2:10pm
barn said...

So apparently I am Lying?

Nebbians shortcut does make more sense but,

Not everybody has a Dremel, me included, but most people have and a drill and a working eye/arm/hand/finger combination.. A screw extractor kit costs about $10.. takes about 3 minutes..





Gee you seem to take things personally. I think they are both decent methods to remove a screw, but I think I would try the dremel version myself, not only because I have got one, but I have horror memories of ezy-outs when I was younger. They snap easily because of the steel they are made out of, so can't handle any misuse.

It is also good to remember that not everyone has that much ability with tools. I think cutting a slot is easier just because of the size of drill hole you are talking about for the ezy-out solution.

Me, I would probably get annoyed and cut out the footstrap inserts and put more in, in better locations and be done with it. I might even put in two sets so I can use four screws per strap to stop them twisting. Board graphics be damned. Not everyone is this crazy/adventurous/silly though.
fullmoon
fullmoon
WA
314 posts
WA, 314 posts
25 Apr 2011 4:27pm
I have had some "happy endings"[}:)] with easyouts but more dismal failures. Stainless is a very difficult metal to work and given the small diameter of the screw I would say you have a better chance of winning lotto than drilling any hole in the screw.
I would get a 6.5 or 8 mm diamond tile hole drill and drill down far enough to expose the broken tip. Grip the tip of the screw with a small pointy nose vice grip (Ground down if necessary) and back the screw out.
You can fill the enlarged section of the hole so the new screw wont flex and break,possibley with a cut down plug.
ALWAYS put soap or vaseline on the screw thread before insertion so the screw will re seat with less friction.

Signed, The Voice of Bitter Experience
actiomax
actiomax
NSW
1576 posts
NSW, 1576 posts
25 Apr 2011 7:05pm
locktite make a three pack thread repair kit a release agent that is painted onto the thread & a two pack that is mixed & inserted into hole into which the thread is reaplied allow cure time and release thread note that the hole depth is now the thread length of the inserted thread so remove any washes before as you dont want to bottom out thread when tightening have had mixed success with this in alumiun castings . you could always helicoil it back to original size . It should be noted that stainless steel work hardens so always use sharp drills & some form of lubricate, coolent when drilling it will save you a lot of hassle in the long run
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