The only time I ever undo the bungs on my boards is if they are going on an aeroplane, or maybe sitting over winter(rarely).

Did it look like any moisture actually got in? The extra 50g of weight could have been from damp straps.

Regarding applying a vacuume to the board, i'm not sure how effective it would actually be without another inlet for the air. You would certainly have to cycle it, IE: apply a vacuume up to a certain amount, then stop the pump and let the air permiate the board again. I don't think it would be that effective, however I don't have that much experience with this stuff.

I always release the bung. That way my routine always includes doing it up. I always do it when I fit the mast foot (tighten bung, install mast foot).

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Originally posted by Combs

I always release the bung. That way my routine always includes doing it up. I always do it when I fit the mast foot (tighten bung, install mast foot).

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Yep, that's definitely my new rule. "Mast foot not allowed in track unless bung already done up." No more of this, "oh, I'll go back to the car and get my screwdriver in a minute".

I've tried vaccuming water out of a board before and it didn't work at all. I put the hose on the nose of the board (thats where the water got in ) and cranked up as much pressure as it could get and left it for 24 hours. Not a friggin drop of water came out. You'd be better of getting hold of a spinner and getting rid of it that way.
Good luck.

been there many times with cracked board parts

take plug out and leave out in hot sun with vent plug downward and paper towel pushed into hole. As u r probably aware, this works best if board is cold to begin with. Works very quickly as a day in sun removes several mls of water. Do it asap before water spreads itself further into foam away from plug area. I bought some black plastic to lay on board to speed up heating.

good luck

Harrow, Practical experience I guess, over .5 low density foam starts to compress. Sure the stiffness of the outside skin offers a lot of resistance, and you may get away with a whole atmosphere, but if I had a nice new board I wouldn't be taking the chance!!!
it's not the psi you have to worry about, the stiffness of the foam sandwich, spreads your weight over a big area of foam, it's the total pressure over the whole surface area, that's the problem. I'll let you do the maths, but I think .5 atmosphere works out to be quite high.

I like the black plastic idea, that could get the board up to 50-60C, Still wouldn't boil, but should help the vacuum process.
Not sure if the gurgling noise is thru boiling, may just be air and water coming out together

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I'll stick it in the car, and go very easy on the vacuum, say lower it to about 0.75 atmosphere. Forget the boiling theory, (waaay too risky), the flow of air through the foam voids should be enough to bring any water back into the bung hole cavity. If nothing comes out, then it's probably safe to say there's virtually nothing left in there.

Harrow,
haven't seen it mentioned yet but one of the best (cheapest) vac pumps available is an old fridge compressor (look for council pick ups! always heaps on the side of the road) when you have one,(after reclaiming the refrigerant in an enviromentally fashion), plug it in and determine which copper pipe sucks and which one blows (stay with me on this! ;)) attach suck end to board pref vent hole, drill a hole in the end of the board and start sucking (turn the compressor on i mean) good idea is to put in a water trap in between the board attachment and the compressor (this can be a vegemite jar depending on how much water is in the board; ps- it is a good idea when you first purchase a board to establish a base weight, this enables a quick check to determine if there is water in the board i.e. 1kg = 1 litre of water; with 2 holes drilled in the top and a piece of tube from the board in one hole and the tube to the compressor in the other) the open hole at the end of the board allows for air to pass through the board and hopefully dry the board at the same time,it helps if the enviroment is hot and low humidity.
another addition to this (which i havent yet tried, is to add a jar of "damp rid" to the equation- place a jar at the open end as a type of trap, again, (like the water trap) this should allow 'damp rid' infused air to be drawn through the board, hopefully helping in the drying process. i would probably leave the compressor going for some time even several days or untill destruction of the compressor!
failing- that chuck the board away!

50 mls of water, mate let it go! think about it EPS is like a maze/honeycomb of spaces It's like one of those puzzles that has ballbearings in a maze, as you move it around some of the ballbearings go were you want and others go the other way.