Wind against tide

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Ian K
Ian K
WA
4170 posts
WA, 4170 posts
19 Apr 2009 7:32pm
Seems to be very little written about this phenomenon. The best google can come up with is www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=16395. The nerds on that forum can't agree.

I think the bottom must have something to do with it - otherwise the water at the surface would only see the relative windspeed - ie if the bottom was not registering then 27 knots of wind going with a 2 knot tide should be the same as a 23 knot wind into a 2 knot tide and the same as 25 knots over still water.

But apparently that is not the case - 23 knots into a 2 knot tide is by far the choppiest. That's what is said down at Sandy Point. (although the tide up against the bank is much less than this) I haven't spent enough time down there to make conclusive observations.

So is the bottom important in "wind against tide" ? If so how does the effect vary with depth?
I've seen it reported when the bottom is tens of metres deep.
There's an east coast current. Do we notice more chop with southerlies vs northerlies?

Anybody know the theory?

Any interesting observations you can report on from your your local body of water?
I've got nothing to report from Lake Burley Griffin.
decrepit
decrepit
WA
12885 posts
WA, 12885 posts
19 Apr 2009 7:51pm
Interesting Ian, haven't come across this concept before, but my guess is you're right about the bottom making the difference.
As you say the relative air to water speeds remain the same, the only difference is water to bottom speed.
Depth of water has a large effect on chop, so if you're right a current into the wind is having the same effect as making the water deeper, it's somehow reducing the resistance to wave formation.
Think we need a hydrodynamics type person.
JayBee
JayBee
NSW
714 posts
NSW, 714 posts
19 Apr 2009 10:29pm
As an ex hydrodynamics person...

"Wind against tide" shortens the wavelength (it is actually the tide shortening the wavelength not the wind), making the waves much steeper then "wind against no tide", or "wind with tide".
Generally water depth is not an issue for local waves, but significant for the low frequency ocean swells. SO without discussing the fetch, or the wavelength it is impossible to definitively answer the conundrum.

BUT - the surface waves (short fetch) that we encounter when sailing on "flat water" (bays, harbours etc) travel at about 8-10 knots in deepish water. A 2 knot current can have a 25% impact on the wavelength, and hence the steepness of the wave.

I will shut up now, I can tend to drone on,

JB
decrepit
decrepit
WA
12885 posts
WA, 12885 posts
19 Apr 2009 8:41pm
So the waves aren't bigger, just steeper?
Ian K
Ian K
WA
4170 posts
WA, 4170 posts
19 Apr 2009 9:18pm
JayBee said...


shortens the wavelength (it is actually the tide shortening the wavelength not the wind), making the waves much steeper




So how does a wave ( or several waves ) know it's part of a tidal system and hence should shorten its wavelength if it can't detect the bottom?

It's a conundrum all right.
decrepit
decrepit
WA
12885 posts
WA, 12885 posts
19 Apr 2009 9:34pm
I think forget bottom for the moment,
The wave speed is relative to water, so if the wave is travelling in the opposite direction to the water, it's speed relative to the ground is slower, this compresses the wave form, increasing frequency or decreasing wavelength, making the faces steeper.
Roar
Roar
NSW
471 posts
NSW, 471 posts
20 Apr 2009 12:46am
Interesting thing ive seen at sand bar south of st george yaght club in botany bay, you sometimes get an area that has standing waves that seem to just sit like a little wall of water that moves very slowly. seems to come up when there is a strong southerly going against the tide that is swinging around the bar.
nebbian
nebbian
WA
6277 posts
WA, 6277 posts
19 Apr 2009 10:53pm
Maybe the difference is that with wind against tide, you're actually going downstream to hold your ground.

With wind going the same direction as tide, you have to pinch to hold your ground.

Going downstream (and downwind!) is faster, so you hit more chop... upwind you go slower so it's not as vicious. Does this fit other people's experiences?
sailpilot
sailpilot
QLD
787 posts
QLD, 787 posts
20 Apr 2009 1:30am
The effect is very real but I cant say why, when berthing ships at the exposed port of hay point (depth abt 20m) the waves become too steep in 30knots of wind with an opposite tide however waiting till the tide turns will often calm it enough to do the job. The funny thing is the rate of flow maxes out at only 1.3 knots. Pretty weird stuff
thewindmap
thewindmap
WA
51 posts
WA, 51 posts
20 Apr 2009 4:30am
The assumption is that 20 knots of wind into 2 knots of tide is the same as 22 knots of wind and zero tide. I don't think this is the case. What we call 20 kts of wind is really the average of gusts and lulls from say 12 to 28 knots, whereas the tidal flow will be much closer to a consistent 2 knots.

So adding 2 knots of tide is really shifting the wind speed distribution upwards, which isn't the same as two knots more wind (where the distribution would change), and given the power vs wind speed relationship isn't linear, may well have much more effect than a 2 knot increase in average wind.

Anyone know which distribution can model wind speeds around a given average wind speed?
Ian K
Ian K
WA
4170 posts
WA, 4170 posts
20 Apr 2009 8:13am
Good point Windmap. I don't know the gustiness distribution but the BOM hints at linearity

"Please Be Aware:
Wind gusts may be a further 40 per cent stronger than the averages given here"

Putting the numbers in the original example on this approximation.
The 27 knot wind gusts to 37.8 knots
The 23 knot wind gusts to 32.2 knots

With the 2 knot tide. The wind relative to water is 25 knots gusting to 35.8 knots . (43% gusts)
Against the tide on the water that's 25 knots gusting 34.2 knots. (37% gusts)

Hang on that's the wrong way around! The gusts are less against the tide for the same over the water average.

But before I realised this I'd cubed the ratios to show there is 14% more power in the gusts that go to 43% than gusts that only go to 37%




JayBee
JayBee
NSW
714 posts
NSW, 714 posts
20 Apr 2009 4:04pm
Wind with current "stretches" wavesets, against shorthens.
The energy of the wave has to be maintained, the absolute frequency does not change (but the relative frequency does), hence the wave height does not change.

A 2 knot countercurrent is a shift in the medium on which the wave propogates. The wind does not know that there is a current in action so the waves build up as normal, but as they are created they get pushed back in the classic "2 steps forward, one step back).





Are we all having fun yet?

JB
evlPanda
evlPanda
NSW
9207 posts
NSW, 9207 posts
20 Apr 2009 4:40pm
^ I think that is one, major, part of the equation. Nicely described btw, even I got it.

#2 From there the waves become even steeper still due to the increased relative wind speed.

#3 And... because they are now even steeper, they become steeper yet again because the wind has a more vertical surface to "push" against.

It needs one of those curvy graphs/equations/logarithmadoodles added to it all.




Ian K
Ian K
WA
4170 posts
WA, 4170 posts
20 Apr 2009 2:47pm
Aha! So JB you've got waves generated in a slack part of the bay moving into the current. Which I suppose is what happens in reality most of the time. The situation of waves originating in a uniform current is different, and maybe a bit hypothetical.

evlPanda
evlPanda
NSW
9207 posts
NSW, 9207 posts
20 Apr 2009 5:13pm
Ian K said...

Aha! So JB you've got waves generated in a slack part of the bay moving into the current. Which I suppose is what happens in reality most of the time. The situation of waves originating in a uniform current is different, and maybe a bit hypothetical.


I read it as showing relative frequency vs absolute frequency (insude the box).

JayBee
JayBee
NSW
714 posts
NSW, 714 posts
20 Apr 2009 5:17pm
Ian - I am afraid I disagree.
I only drew the waves being created in static water to demonstrate the effect of the current. There is no difference in the manner in which waves are created in static water or constant currents. This is a classic Doppler effect situation where a wave of constant frequency is received at a higher or lower frequency by an observer moving relative to the source.

A constant wind will create monochromatic waves of (approx) fixed height and frequency. The wind does not know that the waves are being pushed back by the current. So it continues creating waves at the fixed frequency, but now compressed wavelength. The effect of the current on the wave does not feedback to the wind at all. The wind just keeps doing what it does best.

The analogy is the same as a powerboat driving into waves at a fixed velocity (and no current) It encounters waves more frequently "upwave" then if it is moving in the same direction as the waves. The waves have not changed in character, but the relative wavelength has changed (in the relative frame of the boat).

JB

At this stage I do need to add a few caveats. The biggest assumption is that the waves are monochromatic, in reality we all know that waves are short crested and somewhat less then sinusoidal. I have assumed that we are dealing with "deep water" where the water depth is greater then half the wavelength. I am also ignoring any wind shear or water shear effects. I am also assuming we are talking about windstrengths where the tops are not blown off waves. These are all additional factors that can have significant impacts on wave structure.
easty
easty
TAS
2213 posts
TAS, 2213 posts
20 Apr 2009 5:45pm
Do you plane earlier if you are going into the tide (apparent water speed under board is greater than the speed you are actually doing), or if you are going with the tide (greater board speed)?
evlPanda
evlPanda
NSW
9207 posts
NSW, 9207 posts
20 Apr 2009 6:00pm
easty said...

Do you plane earlier if you are going into the tide (apparent water speed under board is greater than the speed you are actually doing), or if you are going with the tide (greater board speed)?


It's all relative to how fast the water is flowing under the board, so into... in the above scenario.

What I want to know is does air pressure affect sailing, noticeably?
sausage
sausage
QLD
4874 posts
QLD, 4874 posts
20 Apr 2009 6:29pm
sailpilot said...

The effect is very real but I cant say why, when berthing ships at the exposed port of hay point (depth abt 20m) the waves become too steep in 30knots of wind with an opposite tide however waiting till the tide turns will often calm it enough to do the job. The funny thing is the rate of flow maxes out at only 1.3 knots. Pretty weird stuff


What do you mean sailpilot? Can't you handle a 1000000* tonne coal ship in those piddly little waves you get up there in the harbour. Don't tell me you get seasick being a master pilot. Also is this just your excuse to stop work so you can go sailing in 30knots.

*figure approx only as author has no idea how heavy those things are.

PS - pretty cool job as opposed to me sitting on my ar5e dreaming all day.
Ian K
Ian K
WA
4170 posts
WA, 4170 posts
20 Apr 2009 5:16pm
JayBee said...

Ian - I am afraid I disagree.



Just when I thought you'd solved the problem for me JB. Well, still thinking, but at this stage I'll disagree and stick to the "all motion is relative " perspective.

In the hypothetical situation of a large surface of water moving as a uniform tide - maybe the Nile river is big enough. And the waves originate and build up in this uniform tide. How would a parcel of water even know it was in a tide if the bottom was not affecting things?

The only velocity this parcel of water would know about is the relative windspeed at the surface. The parcel of wind would only see the water below - no memory of the land it was passing over 10 minutes before.

So wind and waves would build up according to their relative velocity. They have no information on what the earth's crust is doing.

And if Easty doesn't look at the bank in the distance he won't be able to tell he's sailing in a current. Unless he looks at his GPS which is working everything out relative to the speed of the earth's crust. (Apart from the wind against wave chop of course , but now my argument has become circular)

decrepit
decrepit
WA
12885 posts
WA, 12885 posts
20 Apr 2009 7:09pm
HMM Ian, I think I see where you're coming from, it's what is relative to the hull that counts, not an observer on shore.
I'm having trouble doing the mental exercise needed to visualise the difference.
I think if the hull isn't moving relative to the water, chop wavelength appears the same.
But a windsurfer's speed is dependant on both wind and water, (their relative difference) so it should still have the same speed relative to wind and water, and not notice the change in wavelength.
sailpilot
sailpilot
QLD
787 posts
QLD, 787 posts
21 Apr 2009 9:13am
sausage said...

What do you mean sailpilot? Can't you handle a 1000000* tonne coal ship in those piddly little waves you get up there in the harbour. Don't tell me you get seasick being a master pilot. Also is this just your excuse to stop work so you can go sailing in 30knots.

*figure approx only as author has no idea how heavy those things are.

PS - pretty cool job as opposed to me sitting on my ar5e dreaming all day.


Ha Ha Brian, I'd imagine the 1000000 tonne ship you mentioned weighs about 1000000 tonnes. Ours get up to abt 200,000 tonnes displacement when loaded.

Actually piloting is no problem its the little boat that takes mooring lines to the wharf that gets too dangerous. Yep, good excuse to go sailing tho
Haircut
Haircut
QLD
6491 posts
QLD, 6491 posts
22 Apr 2009 7:58pm
if it's wind against tide at the shearwater, everyone's happy
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