i have been getting a few carve gybes lately, but i am not sure when abouts i should change my feet position, should it be before the rig change, or after, i have been watching people doign the gybes, but it is hard for me to tell when they change the feet. wich is the best way of flipping the rig without it trying to snap your wrists as you go for the other side of the boom,
thanks in advance

I've been pretty happy for a while now gybing from starboard to port and changing feet as i gybe the sail, but buggered if i could do it going from port to starboard. one day i accidently did a strap to strap gybe (change feet after sail flip and sailing away) on port - starboard, and it's worked since. so now i gybe totally different on the different tacks, and it seems to work well. might be something to do with the different sides of the brain, or i could just be weird. do whatever feels right and works.

Fark Tony that's the best laugh I've had all week

The recommendation from good old Peter Hart is to change the feet just prior to the rig flip. This puts your feet in the right place to hold the board flat and immediately get into a planing stance on the way out.

In good conditions and if I am in a positive mood, I can generally get the carve gybe on both tacks. I have worried about the 'when' question myself, but in reality it all seems to happen at roughly the same time and if you don't think too hard about it, it just seems to happen on its own.

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Originally posted by easty

yeah, guess i left that one wide open for childlike humour from water and wind starved central victorians. how do you manage to go sailing Tony, with petrol prices the way thay are?

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Simple send my company broke via the fuel account.

Eppalock last I checked on the goulburn murray water mismanagement Authority website was 1.7%

My main business is Steel ute trays. 70% of sales in normal times are to farmers.

So if the fuel account won't do it, the drought will.

Sailboarding Kills, die happy.

After some moderate success, my biggest problem is now holding the carve while overtaking the Botany chop going downwind. Front of the board seems to catch as I overtake and go down one chop into the back of the next one, upsetting my carve. What's the solution, or do I just need to get used to it?

nebbian,

Trouble is it is Botany Bay chops, not swell. The distance between chop crests is less than a board length, and they are travelling slow, so you over overtaking them at full broad reach speed, bouncing over each one while trying to lean in and turn. Makes for some great stacks!

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Originally posted by Harrow

After some moderate success, my biggest problem is now holding the carve while overtaking the Botany chop going downwind. Front of the board seems to catch as I overtake and go down one chop into the back of the next one, upsetting my carve. What's the solution, or do I just need to get used to it?

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Dear harrow, yes steering/navigating your way through chop is a great idea but not always possible due to sea state. So navigate the best line possible, and yes going down chop will shift your weight so you have to go with it with confidence (So getting used to it is part of it), I remember fearing this experience when I was at your stage, now I look forward to it, and try and exaggerate the feelingbecause I know the technique.

For tightly spaced chop, tighter harder carves with the technique that follows helps. For more widely spaced chop, you can ride the chop on the way down (maybe that's more a swell line than chop though)

However, For high winds and choppy sea state, One tip I got from a gybing video, that I still have somewhere, is that for very choppy conditions, you need to get the ankles and knees working as shock absorbers, which lessens the weight on the nose, and therefore lessens the impact of nose driving into chop.

What was suggested is along with bent floppy knees and getting your centre of gravity nice and low, the heel of the front foot should be raised, with the weight on the ball of your foot, so the ankle has mobility to move up and down like a shock absorber, so then you have both ankle and knees providing a shock absorber effect, hope this helps, definitely works for me in the wildest of conditions, and how I was pulling off gybes in 30 knots at gero (Notice how low I get to gybe in that photo I posted I'm about 6 foot, and had boom around chest height, but in the photo, my head is about level with the boom, if there'd been a close-up, you'd see the front foot raised acting as shock absorber.


Geez I've just re-read this, and it sounds like I'm some sort of expert/pro.......... remember it's hardie that's just answered your query, so take my advice at your own risk

i have been out on the water a few times since posting this and i have been getting around 3 or 4 full carve jibes while plaining out of them. out of about every 10-15 atemps. thanks for all the tips

jordan