measuring wave size

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grumplestiltskin
grumplestiltskin
WA
2331 posts
WA, 2331 posts
16 Feb 2007 10:37am
Just an ol' bugbear of mine.

Is there a consensus on calling the size of waves.

some people seem to use the size of the face and others seem to use the size of the swell .... (others have no idea)

i.e. Waves can break and have a 6ft face but only be a 1.5-2ft swell. Whats the call?
Pugwash
Pugwash
WA
7733 posts
WA, 7733 posts
16 Feb 2007 10:54am
6ft face, I call head high BUT, I know a few people that would call that logo OR EVEN mast high (particularly if I can't make it that day).
qwerty
qwerty
NSW
807 posts
NSW, 807 posts
16 Feb 2007 12:58pm
If you're from Wanda, then everything is a minimum of "3/4 mast high", regardless of the actual size.



Jethrow
Jethrow
NSW
1282 posts
NSW, 1282 posts
16 Feb 2007 1:00pm
It's been a while but I seem to remember that the Hawaiians measure the wave heights from the back of the wave (just to stir the pot a little).
qwerty
qwerty
NSW
807 posts
NSW, 807 posts
16 Feb 2007 1:03pm
I measure the wave using my habit of extreme exaggeration.
JayBee
JayBee
NSW
714 posts
NSW, 714 posts
16 Feb 2007 1:15pm
Grumples,
The short answer is that there is no concensus.

Take a look at http://www.hawaii.rr.com/leisure/reviews/neal_miyake/2003-05_hsmwhihawaii.htm
which explains the different height measurements.

Personally I always use the "scientific" measurement (Wave height is the distance from a wave's trough to its crest (i.e. amplitude). The crest is the top of an unbroken wave, the trough is at the bottom of the front of the wave).

JB
Pugwash
Pugwash
WA
7733 posts
WA, 7733 posts
16 Feb 2007 11:17am
quote:
Originally posted by qwerty

I measure the wave using my habit of extreme exaggeration.




Yep, exactly the same as some people I sail with
Jens
Jens
WA
348 posts
WA, 348 posts
16 Feb 2007 11:19am
Hi Folks,

Well you are sailing the front of the wave, so that's the area to measure I reckon. With windsurfing you've got the advantage of the mast to measure against, so why not use it? Mind you, with sails becoming shorter, these days a mast high wave ain't what it used to be!

Cheers, Jens
md74
md74
QLD
1064 posts
QLD, 1064 posts
16 Feb 2007 12:27pm
in the surf world, australia we call it from the back, so a 3 ft wave has about a 6-8 ft face.

however, in the USA they call it from the front, eg, when they have the big wave events, and they are on a 20ft wave, they are measuring from the front. Therefore our 3ft wave to us is a 6ft wave to them.

But like I said in oz, look at the front and half it, otherwise you will sound like a goose!

I think with windsurfing, if you are talking about the wave you are on, same as surfing, you can safely refer to it as "head high" (3 ft wave from rear), "mast high" ( 5ft wave from rear).

Thats my understanding anyways, from pretty good sources I should add!



shear tip
shear tip
NSW
1125 posts
NSW, 1125 posts
16 Feb 2007 2:23pm
I never understood measuring from the back of the wave. You sail/surf on the face dont you? If you're doing a bottom turn and the crest is head high, that's a six foot wave in my book. Maybe it's the great Australian tradition of understatement...
md74
md74
QLD
1064 posts
QLD, 1064 posts
16 Feb 2007 1:44pm
yeah I think its unique to oz for some dumb reason, I made the mistake of telling a surfer mate that I was on a 8ft wave, because it was up over my head, he kept calling bullcrap! SSo it was 8ft front 3-4ft actual wave size.

Another example is coastalwatch.com.au always call the rear of the wave, Seafm on the golkd coast calls the rear, so a 3ft wave, can be pretty big!

However, you can have a less than 1 m wave with an ocean swell of 2m plus. go figure!
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23684 posts
WA, 23684 posts
16 Feb 2007 1:21pm
Yes and that is why I think using the back is stupid. (1) everyone is looking at the front. Somebody is standing up in front of it so why not use the face? makes more sense. (2) swell height is measured in the open ocean from trough to peak... same as sound waves and any other wave ever...... scientific standard. (3) if you measure the back, you get the above silly situation where a 3m swell gives you a 1m wave. In reality where I sail a 3m swell is well over mast high and quite nasty in some places.

MD are you sure about the yanks, cos I'm positive Hawaii (surfers at least) go off the back of the wave???

We need to start an online education web page to get everyone talking face sizes.
Rex
Rex
WA
949 posts
Rex Rex
WA, 949 posts
16 Feb 2007 2:27pm
md74 wrote:

in the surf world, australia we call it from the back, so a 3 ft wave has about a 6-8 ft face.


That is not so, In Australia there is no concensus either, undersizing wave height makes a person look like a goose in my eyes.
The best way is to call it at body height, if its over my head its head high, if its twice my height its 2x headhigh etc, or alternatively mast high or whatever if you are sailing. I have no problem anywhere calling a 6ft face a 6 ft wave.

From memory the halving of wave size had something to do with Hawaiians trying to scare off the Californians, sure someone will correct me If I am wrong
md74
md74
QLD
1064 posts
QLD, 1064 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:31pm
good point rex, I do agree 100% with you, I hate calling a great 6ft wave a 3 footer! sounds weak!

kana
kana
QLD
43 posts
QLD, 43 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:34pm
md this is mrs kana
Do you ever het any work done!!!
md74
md74
QLD
1064 posts
QLD, 1064 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:36pm
haha mrs kana! I work right here on the computer, thats why im here so often! Although I ussually work late arvo thru to midnight.

when i get bored with working, which is a lot, I check out seabreeze!
eggs
eggs
QLD
246 posts
QLD, 246 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:41pm
I learned the hard way of wave height estimation after taking a boat trip out to a reef break in Indonesia- I was told 6-8ft Hawaiian but on arrival was smashed by double to triple over head waves Lesson learnt quickly
md74
md74
QLD
1064 posts
QLD, 1064 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:54pm
nice work eggs! that would have scared the bejesus out of ya im sure!
eggs
eggs
QLD
246 posts
QLD, 246 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:59pm
To quote Haircut- "rock'n'roll chokitos" all round!
NR
NR
WA
517 posts
NR NR
WA, 517 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:30pm

flat, small, head high, over head, way over head, big, huge, serious gonads required, dreaming bro

NR
NR
WA
517 posts
NR NR
WA, 517 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:31pm
flat, surfable, makeable, unmakeable

eggs
eggs
QLD
246 posts
QLD, 246 posts
16 Feb 2007 4:31pm
opinions required- what height is the wave in the video link?
sensational stuff!

Jens
Jens
WA
348 posts
WA, 348 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:32pm
Hi Folks,

I remember one of my 1st trips down to Margaret River years ago watching the peak break at just over mast high (easily judged by the sailor it closed down upon) and remarking that there was a fair bit of swell about. Up pipes a local-nah that's only 4 ft mate. And so the square law of wave size was invented...

To be fair it makes sense to me now, even though I don't subscribe to that scale myself. At Margarets if it is solidly mast high all along the wall (ie not just the peak) it seems to be called 6 ft, 8ft corresponding to mast and a half. This day was less than solid all the way through, so 4ft sounds about right.

Cheers, Jens
NR
NR
WA
517 posts
NR NR
WA, 517 posts
16 Feb 2007 3:40pm
Heard a couple of da huis calling head and a half to double head pavillions, 2 feet once.
Gestalt
Gestalt
QLD
14965 posts
QLD, 14965 posts
16 Feb 2007 5:11pm
yesterday iu went sailing in double fin and a half surf.
ka43
ka43
NSW
3105 posts
NSW, 3105 posts
16 Feb 2007 6:24pm
Gestalt wins hands down
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23684 posts
WA, 23684 posts
16 Feb 2007 4:37pm
If it is peeling and we use the (dumb) back of the wave measurement, double fin and a half is fun!!!!!
Poida
Poida
WA
1922 posts
WA, 1922 posts
16 Feb 2007 5:19pm
my 2 cents worth
6 foot triggs is about 3 foot margaret river or hawaiin scale or 1m swell
3 foot margaret river/hawaiian is about head high
6-8 foot margaret river is really scary and I would say at least double to triple overhead - or say 3m swell
I like measuring by head height or mast height at the front of the wave though - sounds better and easy to understand, usually with a few other descriptive words like "it was f***ing huge!".
Pugwash
Pugwash
WA
7733 posts
WA, 7733 posts
16 Feb 2007 5:32pm
quote:
Originally posted by Gestalt

yesterday iu went sailing in double fin and a half surf.



I hope you are talking formula fins, NOT freestyle fins!!!
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23684 posts
WA, 23684 posts
16 Feb 2007 6:39pm
No. Wave fin 22cm x 2.5 = 55cm. If you use the stupid damn back of the wave measurement that is about 4ft face.... which if peeling nice, pretty hollow in the section and if it is really windy cross-off that is damn good fun.

Another reason the back of the wave measurement is f%cked ..... some of my best days ever have been in fin and half waves
grumplestiltskin
grumplestiltskin
WA
2331 posts
WA, 2331 posts
16 Feb 2007 6:58pm
This is great, consensus that there is no consensus

However popular opinion is leaning towards "face value" so thats what I will be using from now on
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