I have a Fiberspar 220-268 100% carbon boom that has dud twist locks on it.(worn out tangs)
I have a 50c mod I can do to keep the twist locks in action, but am considering replacing the twist locks to make boom 100% again.
However, the boom is some 20cm longer than I need at full collapse.
Is there any way of cutting 20cm out of each arm, without stuffing the boom so I have a 200-248 cm Boom that is still fully functional?(with new twist locks fitted of course.)

Anybody out there done a mod such as this.
A new carbon boom is out of question wallet is very light

Before cutting, I would make sure that in the new position the end of the clew bit was inside a straight part of the arm.

Otherwise you won't be able to push the boom to min extension due to the curve of the arm.

Then you'd have to start cutting bits off the ends of the clew bit to make it all work, which would make the whole boom floppier... Argh nightmare!

mineral1 said...

I have a Fiberspar 220-268 100% carbon boom that has dud twist locks on it.(worn out tangs)
I have a 50c mod I can do to keep the twist locks in action, but am considering replacing the twist locks to make boom 100% again.

Is that the "o" ring fix you mentioned before Min. I have one of those booms and I'm wondering just where do you put the o rings?

NotWal said...

mineral1 said...

I have a Fiberspar 220-268 100% carbon boom that has dud twist locks on it.(worn out tangs)
I have a 50c mod I can do to keep the twist locks in action, but am considering replacing the twist locks to make boom 100% again.

Is that the "o" ring fix you mentioned before Min. I have one of those booms and I'm wondering just where do you put the o rings?

Notwal, the O rings sit into the groves on the adjustable arms, (pull them out and slip the O rings onto them so the tangs now butt up against the O ring, when you refit arms and the twist lock screws hard up against the O ring on its other side too the tangs. The boom adjustable arms wont budge And I have given my NP a bloody belting riding over chop. O ring size is slightly smaller than the groves in arms and have a cross section diameter of the rubber of about 1mm
The only draw back is each time you need to adjust boom length, you have to role O rings up or down adjustable arms to the correct grove.
If you need some photo’s PM me your email and I can send some too you.
Mineral

decrepit said...

elmo said...

Mike,

Speak to Paul K at Hydrodynamics,

he's probably got a fix for you before you take um hackumsawum to ya kaboom

Doubt it Elmo, the end of one arm is a mess, if re-fiberglassing it didn't work, the only solution I can see is amputation.
But only 20mm or so, just enough to get a new hole in solid carbon.

Sorry Mike I meant Mineral Mike

On the topic of cutting carbon booms, I have two broken booms that I want to make into one.

The good arms were from a twist lock boom, the good tail is from a newer 2-pin system.

Is it possible to just drill holes in the good arms, fit the 2-pin collars and start using the good tail with it? It's the hole drilling I'm most concerned about.

Leech said...

On the topic of cutting carbon booms, I have two broken booms that I want to make into one.

The good arms were from a twist lock boom, the good tail is from a newer 2-pin system.

Is it possible to just drill holes in the good arms, fit the 2-pin collars and start using the good tail with it? It's the hole drilling I'm most concerned about.

Leech,
You should be able to fit some pin clips to the arms, depending on the diameter.
Some but not many brands sell spare parts.
Hydro Quick clips may work but you need to check the diameter of the holes in the extension (need to be about 7mm from memory)
If the arms are 28mm, 29mm or 32mm we have adaptors to fit between the arm and Quick Clip.
Drilling the holes I would recommend using high speed & a drill sharpened to about 160 degrees, almost flat like you would use on sheetmetal.
Put a couple of layers of masking tape either side to help stop chipping around the holes.
Alternatively drill a small hole & open up with a file or Dremmel type tool.

If youre drilling the arms. It would be a big help if you could get the use of a pillar drill. Make a fence up so the holes are bang on in the centre. It might be an idea to use a drill slightly smaller than required and then drill to size. The hole will be a lot cleaner. Like Paul suggested sand the holes gently afterwards. I didnt do this and impaled myself with a 40mm carbon splinter. I know this as i measured it

Thanks Paul, appreciate you help on this
yep found out about splinters when I trashed a mast early this year