The dyneema rope on the Dynabar's are super durable!
The rope is a spliced 4mm SK7 dyneema, rated at 1250Kg.

I have had the outer sheath wear through (extreme wear, see below) and nil breakages before changing it out a few weeks later.
Obviously I wouldn't advise not replacing worn gear, but to me it shows how darn strong the rope is.

Running double ropes through your chicken loop is crazy overkill; you may as well double line your kite as well.
If I was wanting to use a short leash, I would run another dyneema line like below (picking up the pre-drillled holes).

dingojack said..
I guess for a guy that, and i quote :

" I know it works before I leave the beach, because I have to assemble it each time I launch, AND I use it every time I land my kite. When was the last time you checked that your primary safety releases easily and properly? The Ozone release is ultra reliable and has no known issues, and I test my one is functioning 2 times each session.

you sure fckd that up www.seabreeze.com.au/images/forums/icon_smile_big.gifhttps://www.seabreeze.com.au/images/forums/icon_smile_big.gif' />

When I said
" I know it works before I leave the beach, because I have to assemble it each time I launch, AND I use it every time I land my kite. When was the last time you checked that your primary safety releases easily and properly? The Ozone release is ultra reliable and has no known issues, and I test my one is functioning 2 times each session.

I was 100% correct, there is no error in that statement at all.

Hey Luther, where art thou brother ? perhaps you would engage us all with your recent mishap??

your such a jackass

yeah released to first safety when caught in the soup, but steering line must of had some slack in it and pinged off my leash safety. Runaway kite now in front of the line gets a little air and cleans up a poley. Luckily for me he thought i was trying to get his attention or he thought it was the latest love making move by gay kiters, albeit either way he didn't beat the sht out of me.....so i think it would be fair to say " a runaway kite will either make you or break you "

Kamikuza said..

surfingboye said..


I have had the outer sheath wear through ...

Not sheathed. The Dynabar rope is a single length of dyneema, with an eye splice at one end and the bury is the entire length. You're lucky the worn through "outer" line bunched up and stopped the eye from slipping past the pin...

Mmmmhhh, good to know.
Glad I'm still alive.

Surfingboye, having had my rope snap a long way off shore I realized that I needed some backup. I tried riding back unhooked but the wind was too strong. I tried all kinds of things to hook up temporarily just to get me back into the impact zone. In the end I had to release the whole thing and paddle in. A second backup rope would have been handy. I don't think it's over kill and it certainly doesn't get in the way nor add much weight. The things we learn the hard way :(

Kamikuza said..

surfingboye said..


I have had the outer sheath wear through ...

Not sheathed. The Dynabar rope is a single length of dyneema, with an eye splice at one end and the bury is the entire length. You're lucky the worn through "outer" line bunched up and stopped the eye from slipping past the pin...

If you use a spliced 4 mm dyneema rope (as Dynabar) and you check it regularly there is no chance the rope to snap during your session. The spliced eye on the end is self-locking and there is always enough buried tail to keep the eye locked during kiting since the outer sheath wears mostly in the middle and snaps there. 20 x rope diameter (4 mm) = 8 cm buried tails is pretty enough for the eye to hold the load during kiting. Here is a picture of my Dynabar rope before I changed it.


I am using a slightly modified Dyneema bar with a sliding and a fixed ring. For installing the fixed ring I drilled a hole in the middle of my Dynabar.

For 'park and ride'/'wave powered' wave riding I connect the QR to the sliding ring and the 'safety' leash to the fixed ring.

For 'kite powered' wave riding or freeriding I connect the QR to the fixed ring which gives me slightly more control and the 'safety' leash to the sliding ring. The fixed ring is a better option then the Dynabar fixed U locker since it completely eliminates the torque load on the spreader bar in all directions. I do not use the bulky pad below the spreader bar since it is completely useless for my setup.

The QR and CL connected to different ropes gives me peace of mind that I will never loose my kite because of a snapped rope. If I want additional safety in gnarly conditions I can connect both to the sliding ring and I can use the Dynabar release system to completely dump the kite very quickly.

I use a self made super small CL which allows me (together with the compact Naish QR) to extend my bar's trimming length. Having more depower throw is very valuable to completely kill the power of the kite during wave riding or in very gusty conditions.

I use also a super short (self shortened) 'safety' leash since I found that with the sliding ring even the short Cabrinha leash is long enough to catch my bar end (happened once).

Why wouldn’t you chuck some plastic tubing around the rope.

Bye bye rope wear

I'm paranoid

20x is not enough: 20x for a 2mm line would be only a 40mm bury...! For makers who splice the eyes, 10cm is normal -- and they stitch the tail.
Lowest I've read is 40x with a Brummell, most common being 72x diameter. If you're not stitching or using a locking splice, you're risking the loop pulling out when the line is unloaded; the tail will hold tight so long as there's a load on it. I notice your plastic grommet has gone too.

I like the center ring, that's a great idea for a back up. Could be left attached but neatly stowed until needed too

It's not the loading, it's the UNloading... the Brummell or stitching are used only to keep the tail from sliding out when there's slack in the line. When there's load on, the tail is held in by the power of Chinese finger puzzle I wouldn't bother doi either for the rope slider. And he says AT LEAST 20 times

Yes, better to use a full length spliced line... and change it sooner! A couple of dollars of line and a 5 minute splice is better than losing gear...

I am experimenting with these systems too....including no chicken loop, to bring bar in closer and easier arm extension to depower. Easy sliding...great for surfing.

Negatives: carabiner type self launch becomes difficult or impossible.
The comment about c loop release failure.....if ** is hitting the fan and it won't release. ...at least with standard hook you have the last resort of pulling out donkey dick and manually releasing.

I attach leash to the harness connection. ..definitely don't want this attached to sliding line....that is most likely fail point.

juandesooka said..
I am experimenting with these systems too....including no chicken loop, to bring bar in closer and easier arm extension to depower. Easy sliding...great for surfing.

Negatives: carabiner type self launch becomes difficult or impossible.
The comment about c loop release failure.....if ** is hitting the fan and it won't release. ...at least with standard hook you have the last resort of pulling out donkey dick and manually releasing.

I attach leash to the harness connection. ..definitely don't want this attached to sliding line....that is most likely fail point.

To tether launch;
Use a snapshackle to quick connect the chicken loop, but use the standard chicken loop release for self landing and emergencies, like the pic from Kit33R on the previous page.

I used 1 of those grenade shackles on my first incarnation but found the CL latch would sometimes fowl after release. That was on a North Iron heart (square end). It was very convenient though. Now, Tethered launch I just attach carabiner to the depower line between bar and QR, thread the CL through rings and reset

The kite is already depowered as per standard tether. Carabiner sits just above the QR on the depower rope.
(I think thats what your asking)
The bar is still fully sheeted out

I don't get the carbon spreader setup?
With that ring thing on the safety that has the main loop through it, are you relying on the loop to come out of the metal ring if you pull the main safety?
Wouldn't it more than likely just get caught and not allow the safety to flag out the kite?

Please tell me what I'm missing.