Land yacht build

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j murray
j murray
SA
947 posts
SA, 947 posts
4 Apr 2009 2:39pm
great stuff Kemosabi,
nothing as sexy as a naked land yacht frame keep up the good work, there are no boundry's in this cart build game , maybe just a few lessons one picks up quickly and hopefully without injury. Heaps of knowledge in here and good mentors too boot a helpful mob o critters I am learning too...cheers walkaboutjoe
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
5 Apr 2009 8:34pm
welcome to your new addiction. Does it turn into a vastsnow covered plain in winter? for a ski mounted mini
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
6 Apr 2009 11:57pm
We get a good coating of snow at times. A few years ago, I borrowed my kids' sled and went for a bonsai ride being pulled by my para-foil kite. That was a fun ride.
The idea of mounting skiis on my mini had occurred to me, but the problem is; whenever we have wind/snow, it's usually pretty miserable conditions. The ice boat guys have the right idea... No blizzard blowing in your face, just clear ice to run on.
bazl
bazl
WA
704 posts
WA, 704 posts
7 Apr 2009 5:12pm
Kemosabi said...

... The ice boat guys have the right idea... No blizzard blowing in your face, just clear ice to run on.


I guess thats good so long as you know the spots where it might be thin!
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
7 Apr 2009 8:51pm
You have ICE
you have mini, you could have a whole lotta fun.
small light iceyacht, smaller areas needed to sail on. I would contact the local iceyachters first though just so they know what you are.
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
8 Apr 2009 4:37am
I have a question for you sail experts. Without a boom mounted bottom third of the mast, what prevents sail cloth from gathering into area of greatest tension behind the mast?

They say a picture is worth a thousand words so here ya go:



Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
8 Apr 2009 6:20am
A sail board sail has more curve in the luff [mast side ] and the sail board boom pushes the mast forward and flattens the sail
If you use a conventional boom on a sailboard sail you need to flatten the curve of the luff to get rid of the excess cloth in the area you descrbe
Land yacht on this forum has written an excellent post on how to recut sailboard sails to suit landyachts to overcome this problem
look under "How I recut sailboard sails to suit land yachts" in the construction section
Matching sails and masts to each other is something of an art All part of the fun!
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2866 posts
SA, 2866 posts
8 Apr 2009 10:11am
The red line on the drawing is where the main tension is ... this is caused from the sheeting system (blue).....
And yes you are right to get the maxium from the sail it should match the mast and mast flex...


landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
8 Apr 2009 8:06pm
Hiko is right , MOST windsurfer sails have a lot moreluff curve. That 4m sail you posted a picture of might be close to a landyacht sail tho.
have a read of the " How to recut windsurfer sails for a landyacht thread " in the construction section . this will help you to leap over the many mistakes I made when I first tried to do it
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
8 Apr 2009 8:18pm
Hiko said...

A sail board sail has more curve in the luff [mast side ] and the sail board boom pushes the mast forward and flattens the sail
If you use a conventional boom on a sailboard sail you need to flatten the curve of the luff to get rid of the excess cloth in the area you descrbe
Land yacht on this forum has written an excellent post on how to recut sailboard sails to suit landyachts to overcome this problem
look under "How I recut sailboard sails to suit land yachts" in the construction section
Matching sails and masts to each other is something of an art All part of the fun!


have a read as Hiko says . If you need a sail maker to do the sewing , tellhim /her to just trust us on the instructions. I drew those instructions after about the 10th sail.
remember , thiis fun

Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
9 Apr 2009 3:12pm
Thanks guys. I've read the "re-cutting sailboard sails" post several times but until now I didn't understand the purpose of re-shaping the luff curve. Now it makes sense.

I'm pleased to report my sails arrived and I'm very happy with their condition. Even the $18 one is very useable. The other one looks practically brand new. I think I'll have a go at cutting and re-sewing now.

Another question:
I believe these are "Wave sails". When experimenting with assembling these sails on a mast and boom, I noticed they have stiff battens which seem to resist the sail forming an airfoil shape when pressed by the wind. Is this a problem I need to fix? Maybe I need to use more flexible battens. Perhaps re-shaping the luff curve will relax the sail and allow it to pull out in the wind (?)

Still having fun!

Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
9 Apr 2009 6:54pm
A simple rule of thumb check you can do on your battens is to place the thin forward [luff]end against something solid and push the thick trailing [leech]end toward it making the batten take up an airfoil shape
You will find a surprising thing happens
The batten will resist this push taking up its shape and then go easily
The point of maximum camber should be about 25 to 35 % back from the luff and the pressure should be somewhere around 2kg before it goes soft
You can measure this with a kitchen scale or a fishing spring scale or similar
The 25% should be say at the top batten and the 35% at the bottom but 30% for all would be fine
If your battens are fairly near these figures then I would say they are OK
If not then they need to be sanded down if too stiff or replaced if too soft
I am sure experts will have more sophisticated methods and figures but I dont think you will be too far wrong if you follow the above

See the fun just keeps coming!!!!
nebbian
nebbian
WA
6277 posts
WA, 6277 posts
9 Apr 2009 8:14pm
Hey Kemosabi,

Windsurfing sails have loads of downhaul force applied. I normally use a 6:1 pulley, and pull probably around 20 kg on the end, so that's 120 kg of force on the sail.

With no boom on the sail, the mast is bent to the right shape, and all the tension is down the "Area of greatest tension" line as you described in your drawing.

Think of it not like an archer pulling back on the bow, but the bow at rest with lots of tension in the drawstring.


As for the battens, once you tension the downhaul, these will start to do what you expect, ie produce an airfoil shape in the sail. They will only be flat if you don't have enough downhaul.


Of course, this all changes when you recut it into a landyacht sail, but it's good to get an idea of how it was originally designed before modifying it
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
9 Apr 2009 8:32pm
The wave sails tend to be quite flat and stiff.
I would suggest laying the sail out flat and comparing the luff curve to the measurements in the plans. If they are close it may not be neccesary to recut. you may get away with a softer set of battens as hiko suggested .
. Any chance of a photo of the sails laid flat o we can compare them?
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
10 Apr 2009 4:42pm
Yes Nebbian is correct A lot of the mast curve on a sailboard is done by the foot tension also which a land yacht sail doesnt have to the same extent
Sorry if I misled you there
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
12 Apr 2009 11:19am
No problem Hiko and I appreciate all the input from everyone. I'll get a pic of my sail so you guys can have a look and tell me what you think about re-cutting the mast curve etc.

Some good news:
I had my first good sailing experience yesterday. Nice, steady wind about 12mph blowing across my test track. Had a great time sailing back and forth for about 2 hours. My test track has some of not-so-good things, such as; too small, isn't always angled right for the wind, etc. I discovered a good thing though; while sailing at dusk I realized it has street lights. I can run at night!
hills
hills
SA
1622 posts
SA, 1622 posts
12 Apr 2009 5:59pm
That's great Nat!! From initial discussion to sailing within a month, I wish I did it that fast!!
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
15 Apr 2009 1:16am
Sail #1: I already un-picked the mast pocket, mostly just to see how hard it would be. Turns out it only took about 20 minutes.



Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
15 Apr 2009 1:22am
Sail #2: Haven't tore into this one yet. It's the better condition of the two.

I think they both have far too much luff curve. Should I just cut to Paul's dimensions?
I was also wondering; Does more mast stiffness mean I should cut less luff curve or just stick to the dimensions no matter what? I think the aluminum mast I'm using is far stiffer than these sails were designed for.



Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
15 Apr 2009 6:15am
You have a couple of good looking sails there I think
Here is a picture of my Class5 landyacht sail [5.25 sq M] laid on top of a windsurf sail to show the difference in the luff curve between the two
The mast this suits is a fairly stiff aluminium one though and you would be best
advised to follow the advice of land yachts post on recutting sailboard sails I think
Good luck should work out great




Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
15 Apr 2009 2:10pm
Good picture Hiko! Easy to see the difference there.
I'll lay out Landyacht's dimensions on this sail and start cutting. I've never tried to sew monofilm before, so I guess I'll see if my machine is up to the task. Picked up some really nice, heavy, UV resistant thread yesterday.
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
20 Apr 2009 12:04pm
No more worries if my machine is up to the task... Say hello to the newest member of the shop:




Been looking for one of these for years and finally found a good used machine at a good price.
Over the weekend, I cut and re-sewed sail-1. Looks like it's good to go now, but I'm still curious; When fully sheeted, Should the battens lay to the side of the mast at all, or be directly behind?
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
20 Apr 2009 12:23pm
More news;
My friend and I took the Mini out to the prairie for a good testing a few days ago. We probably sailed about 30 miles all together on dirt roads using the experimental canvas sail I made. At one point we clocked 27mph. What a blast!
I'm busy working on Mini number 2 now so we can sail together.





At one point, a Cessna did a fly-by at a few hundred feet off the deck to say hi and see what we were up to. That was cool.




All in all, we ended the day with sunburns and huge grins pasted to our faces.
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
20 Apr 2009 12:33pm
Now that most of the bugs are worked out on this frame, I decided it was time to put some paint on it before it starts to rust. My son was having a good time shooting primer. Later I finished it in bright yellow.





Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2866 posts
SA, 2866 posts
20 Apr 2009 5:25pm
Kemosabi said...

Should the battens lay to the side of the mast at all, or be directly behind?

It doesn't matter that much ..... but if they are on the windward side of the sail its the least efficient...But idealy it should be a soomth curve on the lee side (back) of the sail just like an aeroplane wing.

landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
20 Apr 2009 10:46pm
so proud of your efforts guys! given that your off and racing I would give fsome thoughts to some side rails on that seat,even rope with some tubular padding, if only to avoid future gravel rash.
if the battens are still on the side of the sail when fully sheeted, this would suggest either too stiff a mast or still too much luff curve.
Photo would be good. sailng venue looks excellent. how did the sewing machine go?how many layers will it hammer through?
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
21 Apr 2009 3:58am
You're right Landyacht. Adding side rails or maybe even rebuilding the seat entirely is one of the next things on the list.

The battens on my sail look like they will function OK, but an excessive amount of down-haul is needed to get the sail straightened out behind the mast. I don't have a softer mast, so maybe more cutting and sewing is in order. I'll get a pic for you.

The new machine is a Beast. It can handle 8 layers of 12oz canvas with no problem at all. For the most part, If you can fit it under the foot, it will sew it and so far I haven't had any problems with monofilm stripping the thread off the needle. The foot raises about 3/8 inch, so you can really jam alot of material in there at once.
It uses a clutch/flywheel drive. Getting used to starting off gently has been tricky, since it's designed to go zero to 60 almost instantly. My wife checks on me occasionally to make sure I haven't sewn my hand to my sail!
Kemosabi
Kemosabi
69 posts
69 posts
21 Apr 2009 4:08am
Wheels are another item on the list. The last afternoon of sailing thrashed all my bearings, but I didn't expect them to last very long anyway. Without access to Fallshaw, I'm forced to think outside the box. These aircraft wheels look like they would work pretty good:


cisco
cisco
QLD
12367 posts
QLD, 12367 posts
21 Apr 2009 11:30am
You can't complain about the price of those wheels, even in US Dollars.
hills
hills
SA
1622 posts
SA, 1622 posts
21 Apr 2009 2:32pm
Wow, they look great!! Hmmm... I wonder how much postage to Aus would be??
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