I'm after the basics

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Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
28 Sep 2009 9:36pm
I would like to build a Land Yacht, how hard can it be
I have been looking and reading some of the posts, and have looked at alot of youtube footage, i have windsurfed alot in the past so understand the point of force of the sail but do not know where this point needs to be in relation to the front and back wheels. I used to sail with a 5.7m sail is that about the size i would be needing ? I plan to build around whatever sail and mast i can find. If i find a windsurfer mast and sail is fiberglass strong enough ? what would be the best way of attaching the mast to the frame ? A tube to go in the frame tube and up the hollow of the mast ? Has anyone got pic's of how they built a "simple" land yacht it is only for a bit of fun so don't want to spend too much. I plan to use a childs push bike for the front wheel and steering, what is the go as to feet steering or hand ? That is probably enough questions for now, Cheers
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
29 Sep 2009 1:38am
Welcome to the forum. All the information you will need is already on the forum including photos.

For the simplest and probably most successful Mini Land Yacht go here
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33825
and here
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37622
for a start and browse the other threads in the construction section for answers to other questions.

The mast rake of an LLF Mini is 10 degrees. Cheers Cisco
responderman
responderman
82 posts
82 posts
29 Sep 2009 3:21am
I am a newbee to this forum and in the middle of building the mini yacht Cisco is on about, if you can weld and cut metal and wood then I recon its easy to build one. I started with a kite buggying but my elbows are not so good now through years as a joiner so the landyacht seemed the best change to the kites.
Good luck and welcome to the forum.
Regards
Jay
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
29 Sep 2009 5:49am
Welcome also to the forum You have come to the right place for what you want to do
If you base your yacht on the Lake lefroy mini explorer as has already been said
you wont be far wrong
I personally started off by building a class 5 which are bigger but I wouldnt recommend it The minis are easier to build and are a better proposition for a first yacht
5.7 sqm would be a large sail for a class 5 size yacht
A mini size yacht would take a sail from 3sqm up to around 4.5sq m depending on wind strength pilot weight etc I would guess Tasmania gets plenty of wind
I use a 16 inch bike wheel on the front of my mini and a 20 inch on the class five and they are fine the loads are light on the front
The rear wheels need to be more substantial though and most are using the fallshaw wheels
A windsurfer mast with an internal stiffener in the lower part would be fine
All the info is in the forum Good luck and go for it I am sure you wont regret it
You are right how hard can it be
best regards
Hiko
Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
30 Sep 2009 7:26pm
Thanks very much for that guys, there is plenty of food for thought.
I looked at the how to build a Mini, i was looking at the steering it looks as if you rotaate feet to steer not pushing forward and back as i thought it would be. This obviously works and is easier to build. What are your thoughts.
Hi Hiko what would you use as a stiffener in the mast, saw another post which used Ali' tube mastic and fingers on the end to take the stress point out (great idea that i wondered how to get over that problem). Do you know details of the fingers. Are the fallshaw wheels like the ones that super cheap have, they have bearings. Can't wait to start just need to track down a mast and sail for a start. Will try traiding post and e bay, not so much choice down here in Tassie, should have built one when i lived in Brissie, ho hum.
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
30 Sep 2009 7:33pm
The steering seems to work well and yes it is a cross between push /pull and rotate.
The ideal wheels are the fallshaw ones, you could buy different makes but they are about a similar price.
Give Fallshaw a ring and see if there are any Tas. agents for their products...
http://fallshaw.com.au/contact_us/contact_us.htm

fallshaw.com.au/core_wheels_pages/core_wheels_pneumatic_plastic/core_wheels_pneumatic_plastic.htm
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
30 Sep 2009 6:58pm
Re the stiffener in the mast If you can find an aluminium tube that fits then just fit it with mastic like you read in the forum
The saw cut fingers in the top just remove the hard stress point
I actually used a metre or so of cedar timber planed to fit in mine with a cross cut in the top down about 100mm to avoid the hard point seems to work OK so far
The Fallshaw wheels are the ones to get if you can They are proven Some of the others have been tested by landyacht and didnt measure up for various reasons
My preference is also for the ribbed tyres rather than the knobbly ones [lighter and less drag IMHO] if you can get them
regards Hiko
kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
1 Oct 2009 9:27am
For your stiffener there are a few options to minimise the stress where the stiffener ends.
Simplest, just cut the tube at an angle, longer and shallower = better, probably best if the long side is at the back.
Next just cut some long slits along the tube, say 150 to 200mm long about 4 is plenty.
You can get exotic and do "fishmouths"
If you use a wooden insert make the last 200mm a "not a good fit" ie if the ID was 45mm, make the insert fit well low down and taper from that to say 42mm
lachlan3556
lachlan3556
VIC
1066 posts
VIC, 1066 posts
1 Oct 2009 1:11pm
Would reinforcing with the a length off another sailboard/windsurfer mast work, as these look to be relativley easy to find for many people?
Hiko
Hiko
1229 posts
1229 posts
1 Oct 2009 11:20am
somewhere on the forum someone did that too
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
1 Oct 2009 1:45pm
That is what I did and it seems to work quite well. For the fibreglass joiner sleeves I actually doubled up.

If you have two tapered masts exactly the same it should be quite easy to make a single sectional mast.

A fair bit of sanding and smoothing off is needed which thins down the wall thickness of the sleeves which is why I doubled up with them.

I achieved a very neat fit and used 2 pac epoxy glue. If your fit is not snug it might pay to use a more flexible glue. The glue is really only to hold the sleeves in place and does not take much load. You could even use pop rivets or self tapping screws but might cause wear spots in your mast pocket.

Have a look here www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51426

Remember that the neater the fit of the sections, the less fall off you will get with the mast and the joints will be stronger.
Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
1 Oct 2009 3:26pm
Hi All thanks again for great advice.
Steering- is the idea of the steering design for the yacht to go straight if you let go of the steering, not that you would, ie does the front of the yacht lift up when you turn or is it best design to keep level turning or straight ?
Ta
kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
1 Oct 2009 1:38pm
Tassie Olly said...

Hi All thanks again for great advice.
Steering- is the idea of the steering design for the yacht to go straight if you let go of the steering, not that you would, ie does the front of the yacht lift up when you turn or is it best design to keep level turning or straight ?
Ta


From the question do you mean does the yacht "round up" ie weather or lee helm? If that's what you mean, NO you want it to run straight. With the "roll over" type steering there is a slight lift as the steering rolls, but not much. There is mountains on the forum about this, probably needs a "sticky"
agamackay
agamackay
QLD
58 posts
QLD, 58 posts
4 Oct 2009 4:42pm


My oldest boy Jesse wanted a blocart but I couldn't justify the price.
As both boys had out grown their trampoline, along with some old windsurfer bits and wheel barrow wheels we built 3 of these for less than $200 each. They only take a couple of days to build. Cheap, quick and easy, great for 2 wheeling and 180deg. slideouts. There are 3 short movies on Google Video : Jesses landyacht. Enjoy.






We have since changed the wire steering to light steel tube on one side only.
aga
kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
4 Oct 2009 5:22pm
With respect, read much of the stuff on the LLM particularly relating to steering. The yacht above likely works OK, but the steering from the photos and drawing can be improved a great deal in relation to it's geometry.
A good first yacht, just there is the knowledge on this forum to do better.
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
5 Oct 2009 11:17pm
kiwi307 said...
just there is the knowledge on this forum to do better.


I have to agree with you there kiwi307, If you are going to build a yacht its better to do it once, and end up with a yacht that has proven performance rather than reinventing the wheel so to speak.

Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
6 Oct 2009 9:01pm
I have been looking at the Build a mini Lefroy forum which is a great how to page. With the steering it looks like the bearing part is just steel washer to steel washer, does the finished steering move smoothly, do you chuck some grease in to it ? or does grease get stuck with sand. I have also been looking at the photos, a fantastic source for ideas. What are the pros and cons of foot steering over a handle bar like the blokarts. It looks as if with a handle bar the length front to back of the cart is longer is that an advantage. Does anyone know of the quality of the wheels sold by super cheap are they up to it ? maybe with new bearings ?
The more i know the more questions i have!
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
6 Oct 2009 8:57pm
On several of the yachts built there has been various setups for the steering, the original plans it actually uses plastic bushes for the wearing parts,I have used bearings (the same as the wheels).
There are both pros and cons with both types of steering the way i see it the positive for hand steering are...May suit disabled sailors with limited use of the legs, If set up in the seat construction may give a better aerodynamic air flow. Easier to run push start (but this is not allowed for racing)
Now the negatives .. harder to build as the mast is in the way between the pilot and steering, in strong winds you need 4 hands, 1 to steer, 2 to use the main sheet and 1 to hang on.....
Now the wheels, the Fallshaw type so far have been the most successful BUT if you cant get them try the others and let us all know the results this is how we all have got this far trial and error. But keep this in mind the larger the diameter of the wheel the easier it rolls.
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
6 Oct 2009 8:38pm
You will save yourself a lot of time, effort and money if you follow the lefroy mini plans, (you dont have to be exact-experimentation is encouraged) just stick to the wheelbase and overall length measurements- so you are within the same class as other mini yachts/ blokarts.

I tried using lightened 10" suzuki hatch wheels and it was a dismal failure- so was using a plastic seat- as it made the center of gravity higher- and you couldnt get the boom low enough as my head kept getting in the way- I couldnt lay down due to the fixed seat back.

the fallshaw 8 x 4 plastic wheels have proven to be the best- and can take a variety of bearings, and a hell of a lot of punishment.
most of the steel wheelbarrow wheels are not worth wasting your time with as they are usually too weak -welds fail under the stress
You can use urethane bushes for the steering head, which will absorb some of the vibration and shock- or use the nylon bushes that you can get from fallshaws (part numbers are on the stephen and brodies lefroy mini thread)
kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
7 Oct 2009 3:51am
The hand steering was used on the Blokart because one of the comments from first time sailors is "how do you steer?"
At the time that Paul was designing the yacht that became the Blokart, my 3 year old son (now 19) had a Coccinelle which was designed and built by Seagull (and later evolved to the Ludic). Paul was watching him sail and we talked about hand steering. Everybody knows how, even toddlers can do this with their walker toys.
As Paul was trying to do something for the "masses" the answer was inevitable.
The same with the more sit up hammock seat. New sailors don't seem to like lying down at first, and so a more sit up position.
In relation to seats, it is interesting that a males centre of gravity is on his pointed bones of the pelvis, so how much effect does it REALLY have to sit up a bit more? Wind resistance yes, feels faster when you lay down yes, but if this were really a great factor (c of g) why have formula 1 drivers sat up more over the last 20 years since the days of the Lotus 33?
Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
7 Oct 2009 9:39pm
All very good points, I had another look at the super cheap wheels today and it does not look like the bearings can be changed if they stuff up, i think i will go with the flow and try to get some fallshaw wheels, it would be a pain in the a..s to go to the trouble of the build only to find the wheels give out not to mention possible injury. Talking of which, seatbelts i see are used seems like a good idea
I just had an idea for the steering between the washers you could cut a washer of rubber to act as a dampener from vibration may be a few rubber washers.
I have also decided to give the seat/bed of the lefroy a go but just stick to ply and foam padding. They definitly look more proffessional but as you say might take a bit of getting used to for a beginer, does it make your neck saw holding up your head or can you lie back
I was putting up a flyer for a mast and sail in a yacht club today and got talking about Lazer sails and mast apparently they have a mast same as windsurfer but ali' and the kids start with a 4.5m2 sail all sounds good to me would using a Lazer sail be a good idea It would not need cutting and 4.5m2 is about the right size, isn't it
PS i have to appologise for any spelling mistakes as i have not found the spell checker
Cheers
Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
7 Oct 2009 9:55pm
Wheels, i have just looked at the fallshaw site and i can't see 8"x4" which i think was the size used, they also are only rated to 8km/h!
Gizmo
Gizmo
SA
2865 posts
SA, 2865 posts
7 Oct 2009 9:54pm
Foam on the seat is a great idea !!!!
The laser sail will still have the same problem as uncut sailboard sails ... being to full in shape.
If you put an add up in the local yacht club or talk to the sail board guys they would possibly have some old sails and masts cheap.
Yes the Fallshaw wheels are rated at 8km/h but will do more, and thats why we use them. they are listed as 400x8KNO-PWB10
http://fallshaw.com.au/core_wheels_pages/core_wheels_pneumatic_plastic/core_wheels_pneumatic_plastic.htm

As my wheel supplier once said "show me a brickie that can push a barrow at 80km/h and change the rating on them" !!!
Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
7 Oct 2009 8:02pm
I know of at least 3 of those wheels that have done over 110 kph
Test pilot 1
Test pilot 1
WA
1430 posts
WA, 1430 posts
7 Oct 2009 8:05pm
Also make a head rest from extra foam. Saves that pain in the neck feeling.
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
7 Oct 2009 9:20pm
Tassie Olly said...

I have been looking at the Build a mini Lefroy forum which is a great how to page. With the steering it looks like the bearing part is just steel washer to steel washer, does the finished steering move smoothly, do you chuck some grease in to it ? or does grease get stuck with sand. I have also been looking at the photos, a fantastic source for ideas.

I make plastic or nylon washers from sheet plastic like 20litre plastic drums or even heavy duty buckets, or even 3 or 4 layers of plastic milk cartons, avoid grease or rubber.
you can use drills or a punch for the inside and just cut with tin snips for the outside

kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
8 Oct 2009 7:50am
Laser sails! Not a good idea at all. They are designed for "slow boats" (think even going well do not go much above 15mph) and just won't do the business, which will be money you spent, did not get the performance you wanted = wasted money.
They would need so many mods, rake, full length battens, new luff curve, removing seam shape, that you could almost have a brand new sail made for the same overall cost.
The sailboard rigs, modded as suggested on the LLM build have been proven to work and can be done for not a lot. Get a yacht going, then re-invent the wheel! That way you will be having fun while you dream up the new master improvement, rather than spending a lot of time resolving issues that may not exist (like the non-existant vibration problem you allude to).
Go for it!
Tassie Olly
Tassie Olly
TAS
13 posts
TAS, 13 posts
8 Oct 2009 11:38am
Thanks guys
I will give the Lazer sail a miss.
110kp/h cool, what is the record for a land yacht
kiwi307
kiwi307
488 posts
488 posts
8 Oct 2009 11:19am
Recorded top speed, have a look at Greenbird on this forum! 200+
sn
sn
WA
2775 posts
sn sn
WA, 2775 posts
8 Oct 2009 11:33am
the world record is a smidgeon over 200kph

lefroy mini landyachts and similar types aim for 100kph
landyacht
landyacht
WA
5921 posts
WA, 5921 posts
8 Oct 2009 9:55pm
sn said...

the world record is a smidgeon over 200kph

lefroy mini landyachts and similar types aim for 100kph

I believe the correct term is wee themselves at 100ph

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