do diesel engines need a battery?

> 10 years ago
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frant
frant
VIC
1230 posts
VIC, 1230 posts
6 May 2013 3:51pm
sorry, no insult meant. Just be aware that the 6 amp alternator is pretty small for charging electrical requirements on the boat and you are probably better off to fix the alternator belt and use the diesel as a genset if nothing else. (assuming that the diesel alternator is approx 30 amp output). The big advantage of the outboard is that you can always hand start assuming you have an electric start outboard. Assuming you have a seperate start battery and house battery then your house will be approx 80-100amp hours. If discharging to less than 50% then you have 40-50 amphours required to charge your battery. This will take approx 8-10 hours of engine outboard run time but only 1-2 hours diesel run time. While sailing at night your power load will be approx 5 amp minimum (ie 4x15watt navigation light globes require 5 amps) plus radio etc. so you will have to keep an eye on your battery use. While cruising and at anchor you can pretty quickly discharge your batteries.
Also back to the original suggestion, split the chain and fit your spare belt. The chain will have a split link. Chain is not sold as an endless loop. All chain is sold as a single length with a split link so that you can make up the loop to suit your requirements. Remember your bike chain? Find the split link on the diesel chain and go from there.
stonedpirate
stonedpirate
WA
248 posts
WA, 248 posts
6 May 2013 9:20pm
Thanks for the calculations Frant.

I am looking into solar and wind for battery use as i dont want to be running the engine 2 hours a day.

I'll sort out electrics when i get back.

Either way, the engines are just for marina navigation and this initial 100km journey as my sailing skills arent the best.

Took it out for 6 hours today to break in the new outboard. Outboard is just an all round better solution than this old rattly smelly diesel. I'm taking the diesel out and filling all through hulls next time it is out of the water.

Electricity will be wind and solar.

Going green :P

Cheers
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
7 May 2013 12:26pm
Don't like the sound of that. If that diesel is still operational I think it would be worth fixing up the smaller issues of alternator etc and giving it some decent use before ripping it out. You might learn of it's true value and get to like it.

Those old exposed flywheel diesels are usually as reliable as the day is long. Outboards are fairly good these days but I don't think they are 30 years good.

Frant is right on the mark re trim and centre of gravity.
frant
frant
VIC
1230 posts
VIC, 1230 posts
7 May 2013 1:10pm
Stoned P. Further to your outboard. I used to leave mine hidden away in the enclosed well for the season and then annually pull it out and take it down to the service centre and pay $250 per year to keep it running sweetly. Even then had to have the water cooling galleries and head rebuilt because of a corroded in sparkplug in 10 years of operation. Then its a throw away job. What you will have to do is remove the thermostat. The thermostat will corrode itself stuck in the closed position after a few months and you will suddenly find yourself with a brand new but overheated outboard motor not covered by warranty because you operated it without cooling water flow.
I used to drive volkswagens (still have an old splitty) so thermostats never a problem but ask Cisco and he should tell you that the first thing you do with the old water cooled Fords is to throw the thermostat away. Different story with modern radiators with coolant of course.
benoz
benoz
WA
50 posts
WA, 50 posts
8 May 2013 11:41am
+1 for the diesel inboard, I don't have one but I wish I did instead of the outboard.
cisco
cisco
QLD
12365 posts
QLD, 12365 posts
8 May 2013 3:42pm
frant said...
ask Cisco and he should tell you that the first thing you do with the old water cooled Fords is to throw the thermostat away. Different story with modern radiators with coolant of course.


That would be the iron head models. Alloy heads, the thermo is very important but correct corrosion inhibitor in the cooling water is absolutely essential.

If a marine diesel is raw (salt) water cooled only, regular maintenance of the water jackets, thermostat and pump is essential and just plain common sense.

Some advocate regular (6 monthly??) pickling with white vinegar or hydrochloric acid. There will always be dissimilar metals in the circuit somewhere and therefore galvanic action causing corrosion. Zinc anodes are fitted to counteract this and need to be changed regularly.
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