Coxy who is doing these installs?
Central coast SUP repairs is doing them on the central coast and has a pick up and delivery to a certain distance !
coxy are they all just double surfboard finboxes , fitted , obviously high density foam and carbon?
Don't wanna give away all my secrets, but do your research with the box's only really one box is up to the task..
Had a few different issues with different box's over the years with kite foiling..
Zero failure rate with the sups so far (touch wood)
Coxy who is doing these installs?
I'm doing them, based on south coast nsw..
boatbuilder/shipwright by trade..
specialise in carbon/epoxy /vacuum/infusion tech..
Got quite a few boards under the arm now with zero faliures..
weight wise I'm around 900g to 1450g for conversion depending on board thicknesses..
Like anything,Do your research before you let anybody chop into your 2k plus board!!
coxy are they all just double surfboard finboxes , fitted , obviously high density foam and carbon?
Don't wanna give away all my secrets, but do your research with the box's only really one box is up to the task..
Had a few different issues with different box's over the years with kite foiling..
Zero failure rate with the sups so far (touch wood)
Yeh I've used the chinook boxes as well and testing these 30% glass boxes with recessed 4mm lip with the carbon and e class glass matt over the lip ! They fit the nuts and are deep the same as the chinook boxes even the same glass percentage in the box in manufacturing
Coxy who is doing these installs?
I'm doing them, based on south coast nsw..
boatbuilder/shipwright by trade..
specialise in carbon/epoxy /vacuum/infusion tech..
Got quite a few boards under the arm now with zero faliures..
weight wise I'm around 900g to 1450g for conversion depending on board thicknesses..
Like anything,Do your research before you let anybody chop into your 2k plus board!!
how much are the conversions
Do you think it's a MUST to have the reinforced mastboxes installed or would footstrap plugs with metal inserts like Flikka is using, properly installed, do the job too?
Flikka has them under a double sandwich and for me this looks solid.http://www.flikkaboards.com/photos/
I loose the trimm option, ok, but ist this essential?
Reason for doing this is that i get a custom WindSup with a rear positioned tuttlebox for windfoiling with a dedicated windfoil.
I want to avoid a second tuttlebox or doublerails for weight reasons, so the idea with the footstrap plugs.
Do board is a concept like the Naish Hover Crossover or F-One Papenoo.
Alex
I can't see footstrap plugs working because IMO you'd need a big block of heavy duty foam put in first.. preferably through to the deck.. glassed over.. and then try the footstrap plugs.. Just as much trouble if not more than putting two boxes in or a tuttle.. The only cheap/quick method is the stick on plate.
I have seen a few ways done and one of those is using 4 prong t nut in a sheet of ply and then laminated booth sides with glass. Personally I never put wood into boards so do a high density foam install which is 35mm thick using futures boxes. you can go all the way to the deck with the foam but I have not found the need to and its adds a fare bit of weight. Just laminate under and around the insert and on to the bottom.
Has anyone used their twobox-converted SUP for classic Surfing and has felt some additional drag due to the open us-boxes disturbing the waterflow?
Maybe i found the solution for the option of occasionally mounting a Supfoil that is light (when not in use), fairly easy to install (esp. on a custom board being build from scratch) and doesn't disturb waterflow/induces drag when windfoiling (using the rear tuttlebox) or classic Supsurfing:http://foil2board.com/foil2board-idea/
It looks like a combination of stick-on foilmount and a deck-to-bottom "box" with 4 carbon screw rods.
What do you think?
Alex
P.S.
Please tell me if my notorious posts on this issue stress your nerves.
I don't want to end up like the guy with the foil mounted too far forward ;-)
Hey guys, thought I would post up my setup and introduce myself. I go by, "Newps" (local's slang for surfing in Newport Beach, CA). I am mostly on, "The Zone", however I am always looking for additional information on everything foiling.
I elected to have my old L41 SIMSUP 7'8" x 31" x 4 1/2" 122L. Model type is a mash up of several models. I believe Kurt was experimenting with several idea's when he made this board. I bought it used from the 2nd owner (Kurt being the 1st).
I had King's Paddleboards install one of their "King Tut" deep Tuttle box installed. Their installation process of the "King Tut" box is extensive, composing of fiberglass and carbon fiber sheets. Also elected to have them install the inserts for foot straps front and rear. Tried the foot straps but did not like them. If I were to do it over again I would have skipped the straps and saved the money.
King's is developing their own foil. The one I currently have is a prototype. Composite mast 20", aluminum fuselage (most liking changing to a carbon fiber composite), Carbon fiber covered EPS foam front and rear wings.
What drew me to King's foil over the others was the ability to shim, adjust, replace, swap / upgrade and all the parts. You can adjust the angle of attack on the rear foil for different boards and rider's weight or shim the fuselage to achieve front positive, rear positive or even foot pressure. Want a different mast height? No problem, every part can be swapped out or replaced due to damage. As the surf/sup foil technology evolves or the situation changes it's nice to just swap parts out.
For me personally, I am still in the steep learning curve with about 10 sessions foiling. Unfortunately for me they have all been on different setups (board, mast heights, and F&R wings). I have about 3 sessions on the current set up (board, mast, fuselage, front and rear wings). A new fuselage will be ready this week, which will shave a few pounds off the old aluminum one. I had a few hours behind a boat with a different set up. I believe this to be the best way to learn the basics of foiling. Most importantly you can dial in your foot position and mark it on your board. Once you get in the surf it's really difficult to dial in your foot position. It can be done but it takes a lot of time and a lot of crashes.
Alex those plugs look good a mate of mine set one up like that bit over a year ago still going strong.
Newps that set up looks pretty good a bit hard to tell from the pics but is that mast leaning back a touch . Really important it runs 90 degrees to the deck and not follow the bottom rocker of the board.
Hi Newps, like Piros said, it looks like your foil wing may have a negative angle relative to the water surface while paddling. Try to adjust it with shims / washers.
Learning to foil is not easy, I'd advise you stay with a proven setup and do not change it while learning, too many variables will slow down your progress.
As you found out, the position of the front foot is key. You must put your front foot on the stringer, and most importantly not move it whatever happens.
I would advise straps (at least the front strap) to be sure to have the front foot in always the same position, but otherwise, try to have some marker underfoot for the front foot position: put some raised pad there for instance. Or try "half straps" (hooks) like www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=243
I understand some people do not want to use straps, and that's fine, but you should then plan some towed time, and once having the balance dialed, try to let go the rope, as it is a different balance with the rope traction.
Found a new mount system that certainly allows a much bigger range of movement to experiment with :- www.foil2board.com
Uses four plug type mounts, then a removable plate.
JB,
Futures box is one piece molded. It wasn't about a 2 years ago, but is now.
Just as the chinook is one piece molded and always has been one piece. Chinook adds glass fill when molding, so it's unbreakable compared to Futures.
yes the futures is actually called the 'one shot' as it is molded in one part refiring to the injection moulding process, its as good if not better than the chinook and cheaper and why I designed my cnc insert for them.
Ive been using the futures one shot in my conversions and have done over 10 now and have had no problem at all ! I have done research on them and they apparently have the same glass content as the Chinook strong boxes 30% resin .
They are deep and have a lip so seem strong as !
Just got a Naish Hover 7'6" 120Lt. Stoked with the shape and finish as I wanted something short but 115Lt +. At some stage I will try to talk myself into taking the foil off and try it as a surf sup.
Just got a Naish Hover 7'6" 120Lt. Stoked with the shape and finish as I wanted something short but 115Lt +. At some stage I will try to talk myself into taking the foil off and try it as a surf sup.
Looks sexy - Enjoy.
JB
Just got a Naish Hover 7'6" 120Lt. Stoked with the shape and finish as I wanted something short but 115Lt +. At some stage I will try to talk myself into taking the foil off and try it as a surf sup.
Hope you are going to bring that to Adelaide over the Christmas Break Gibo.
......I have done research on them and they apparently have the same glass content as the Chinook strong boxes 30% resin . ...
Definitely not the same glass fill content.
It's plain as day when you sand both boxes.
Futures boxes sand super easy, like any plastic does with none or nearly no glass fill.
Chinook is a bitch to sand. You need the extra hard sanding pad, plus 60 grit to even have a chance of sanding it flush.
The sander exposes the truth.
id love to use futures boxes, but I'll wait until more are installed before going the easy way.