What is the recommend Poly density

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richswing
richswing
WA
724 posts
WA, 724 posts
18 Feb 2011 1:52am
Hi Guys,

I am looking into making my own SUP, I had found a seabreeze link of a guy who uses polystyrene.

He shapes the board, and then pulls down the nose and tail to get the rocker but for the life of me I cannot find it again. Any ideas.

My question is what is the recommended density of the polystyrene to use, I can get 16 and I think 24 kg/m^3?

I don't want a too heavy board and I weigh in at 90kg and want to use the board in the surf, any recommendations with foam and shape especially tail shape? I am looking at a 9'6, 30-32" wide by around 4"5 thick wave board.

I am new to the sport but feel I can get the balance quite quickly.

Cheers
Rich
goatman
goatman
NSW
2151 posts
NSW, 2151 posts
18 Feb 2011 10:05am
I couldn't tell you the kg/m3 ratio but 'M' grade is the best (despite what anyone might tell you) as it offers the best strength to weight ratio.
Scotty Mac
Scotty Mac
SA
2060 posts
SA, 2060 posts
18 Feb 2011 10:26am
Rich,

I use VH which is great to shape and is used widely by custom shapers like Blane Chambers (PSH) and Tully St John (Laguna Bay).

You can go lighter grades but you need to change you glassing schedule but from what I have seen, these lighter grades dont offer long term durability and are more prone to sucking in water if you get a ding or crack.
(despite what others tell you)

My last shaped board would be aroun 6.5 kg and plenty strong
At the end of the day its sup to you.

Regards,
Scott
goatman
goatman
NSW
2151 posts
NSW, 2151 posts
18 Feb 2011 11:27am
Scotty Mac said...


You can go lighter grades but you need to change you glassing schedule but from what I have seen, these lighter grades dont offer long term durability and are more prone to sucking in water if you get a ding or crack.
(despite what others tell you)



Sorry Scotty but 20 years making goaties tells me otherwise. VH will suck just as much water and add 500 - 750 grams I reckon. I still see old waveskis I made 10 years holding up fine. It has a lot to do with glassing methods though.

I have noticed the VH made sups denting quite easily as less glass is used to keep the weight down - resin/glass is tougher than polystyrene.
Scotty Mac
Scotty Mac
SA
2060 posts
SA, 2060 posts
18 Feb 2011 11:25am
Goaty,
Not much denting on mine, more air means more room for water too get in. Hey, I am not going to try and convince you otherwise, just providing an alternative opinion to Rich. I agree that at the end of the day, you can get an M grade board lighter but in my opinion, it does offer enough long term durability. M grade is great if your making a new board every 6mths and happy to throw the old one away and it adds more cost because you need to glass it more.
1kg to 1.5 kg weight gain in not worth it IMO. If you really want light and strong, foam sandwich wins hands down.

Rich,
The 24 would be VH and the 16 is probally M.

Regards,
Scott
CMC
CMC
QLD
3954 posts
CMC CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
18 Feb 2011 11:29am
The 24 is VH and the 16kg/m3 is SL or 1lb in US terms. This is not suitable for shaping and hand laminating unless you really know what you are doing. Better used in sandwich construction.

IMO If they are your 2 choices go the VH as the SL will be nothing but problems for you if you are not experienced in working with it.
goatman
goatman
NSW
2151 posts
NSW, 2151 posts
18 Feb 2011 12:41pm
I'm not talking about SL grade CMC - 'M Grade' is what I said. Sl is too light.

I own 3 different custom SUPs 2xM 1xVH, the M grade ones are stronger and lighter and have virtually no dints. I call BS on them lasting 6 months and I surf 4-5 times a week.

Hey richswing try making one of each - using identical layups/resin combos and see which one is best - I have done it numerous times in VH, M and SL.
log man
log man
VIC
8289 posts
VIC, 8289 posts
18 Feb 2011 12:48pm
M grade for me. Standard old building insulation grade. Cuts easy, sands easy and a 10x 26" board weighs about 7 kg. I wonder if the link your after is the one posted by DJ which follows the construction of one of LSD's surfing boards? Deans boards are awesome and super light
Scotty Mac
Scotty Mac
SA
2060 posts
SA, 2060 posts
18 Feb 2011 12:48pm
Use 'm' everyone, I couldnt give a rats toss bag......

It will leave plenty of VH for me.
CMC
CMC
QLD
3954 posts
CMC CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
18 Feb 2011 12:22pm
goatman said...

I'm not talking about SL grade CMC - 'M Grade' is what I said. Sl is too light.

I own 3 different custom SUPs 2xM 1xVH, the M grade ones are stronger and lighter and have virtually no dints. I call BS on them lasting 6 months and I surf 4-5 times a week.

Hey richswing try making one of each - using identical layups/resin combos and see which one is best - I have done it numerous times in VH, M and SL.


Goaty, I respect your opinion more than most mate, nobody knows more about this stuff than people that have worked with it over time. In the OP he said he only had the option of 16 or 24. SL is 16. As you said this is too light. M is 19. So if he only has 2 choices and they are 16 or 24 I said go the 24 (VH) which you would probably agree.

Or he can find some M grade from another place and glass it well like you said before.
Simondo
Simondo
VIC
8025 posts
VIC, 8025 posts
18 Feb 2011 7:07pm
I know the thread you are looking for. I can't find it either. I will PM "LSD" with a link. It was his thread.

(I'm in the VH camp for SUP - with dilusional thoughts of an Ocean Race Board Factory/Shed in Torquay ! )
Clarky
Clarky
QLD
295 posts
QLD, 295 posts
20 Feb 2011 11:12am
Definetly use vh for an inexperienced board maker. I've made half a dozen boards now, first 5 in medium last one in vh. My first few I had trouble with the fins busting out due to my lack of knowledge but with the vh the fins are rock hard
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
20 Feb 2011 12:35pm
look for the inexperience guys out there likely if you havnt made say over 50 boards plus i would use vh grade as your skill level and glassing level is likely not quite there yet this is a heavier grade but a bit easier to shape .
The vh offers more weight but not alot more strenght for the amount of extra weight.
But for experienced guys like Goaty who have done millions of shaping boards and glassing , sanding etc well they no how to use lighter materials yet still produce a stronger product,
I dont use Vh personaly as i feel you can get an extra layer of glass on to a board and get 10 times more strenght, then using a heavier grade foam which offers little strenght for more weight, But if you are just pocking around use the Vh its fine and if you can only get vh or sl i would get the vh
Cheers
Scotty Mac
Scotty Mac
SA
2060 posts
SA, 2060 posts
20 Feb 2011 12:14pm
Yer not sure Blane and Tully are inexperienced?
Do boards shaped by a machine count against the 50? Not sure that shaping has anything to do with durability but you right, VH is easier to shape.
Remember the other day you telling me that your board had some water getting into it? Or so you were telling me? Didnt look that old? Guess to hit a rock, it happens.
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
20 Feb 2011 1:11pm
yeah i kneed the rail in and cracked it open yeah that happens when your surfing a 5 foot plus shorebreak sometimes? but what are you going to do its called a dig.
I personal make my own boards super light as i can that board had 2oz cloth on it but i would never put anything like that on a customers board.
Scotty when i started shaping computers werent really being used widly yet so i did it the old fashioned way by hand with a planner and still do some of my original files this way.
I wasnt having a go at you mate i was just stating that its easier for a less experinced board building to use vh foam , not sure why one would get offended about this comment?
Gee back in my day you couldnt even call yourself a shaper unless you had done 500plus boards , you had to start out picking up the dust first, now you just design on a laptop to funny how the times have changed
Scotty Mac
Scotty Mac
SA
2060 posts
SA, 2060 posts
20 Feb 2011 12:59pm
Not offended at all, cnc shaping is all good to me, i wish i had access to it.
I am just offering a different opinion, and i am sure if you or goaty saw on of my boards in VH, you would agree that its a good option too.
I also see how m grade works with the right amount of glass lay up too. But for me , I like VH better and I am not alone. Sure you will find many who also back m grade all the way.

I love a good dig....You blokes in Sydney need to look outside you own backyards a little more......
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
20 Feb 2011 1:49pm
scotty im use your boards are epic mate
i never actaully was even refering to you i was just answering the original questen posted by richswing
You love a good dig ha , well i find digging gives me a sore back the next day so i prefer to go supping instead
richswing
richswing
WA
724 posts
WA, 724 posts
20 Feb 2011 8:22pm
Hey Guys,

Thanks for the advice, I think I am going to go with the higher density as it will be a bit more forgiving handling it during shaping and also against my 2 kids.

I am going to place my order this week for the foam, take it a bit slow as I want to get as much info as possible and also my wife has a list a mile long.

My next question is:
Does anybody have any dimensions I could "borrow" for a wave orientated board around 9'6 by 32" by 4.5 unless you have a better option. I am looking for a basic outline, rocker and tail shape.

I realize some of you guys have well kept secrets on your boards but I am hoping someone will come to the party.

I presume the concept of shaping a SUP is the same as a surfboard, in 3 foot increments, etc.

Also looking for any specs on what fin boxes should be used, fin layout, toe in and camber. Is it anything like surfboards?

I like the passion you guys have.

Cheers
Rich
Bnaccas
Bnaccas
VIC
1722 posts
VIC, 1722 posts
21 Feb 2011 12:56am
I just compared both VH and M grade foams from leftovers I had in the shed from
the almost handful of boards I have made and I gotta tell ya the ball size and density
is almost identical.

I also just did 2 little tests with some 12" x 1" off cuts.

I attached a bag with a piece of string and hook to the foam and kept adding bolts
to the bag until the foam broke. The M grade actually took 11 more bolts (almost 1kg)
than the VH grade.

I then dropped my sledgy from 1.7m high onto both foams 5 times each. The M grade
was left with deeper dints initially but after 10 minutes both had rebounded to
almost flat again.

So from this high tech experiment I guess you could say M is less likely to break but
is more prone to dints. I'm assuming the reason M didn't break first was the lower
dinsity meant it could flex more before snapping. And the reason it dinted easier
was again the lower density. So thats one point for each grade.

All that crap aside, my first board was M grade, went well, was light and got creased.
The second board was VH, went well, was light and got creased. I don't think it will
make much difference which foam you go for, it will come down to glassing. Goodluck!
greenleader
greenleader
QLD
5283 posts
QLD, 5283 posts
21 Feb 2011 12:53am
foam density means jack if you know how to build a hard shell.

after your first hundred you will get the picture.
richswing
richswing
WA
724 posts
WA, 724 posts
20 Feb 2011 11:30pm
Now you guys are making me second guess.

There is $40 difference in price, going for M grade will save me half for the next board.

But I suppose it all depends on the layup, I was going to use 2 x 6 ounce all round and maybe extra layer on the standing area but I feel extra layers of glass weaken the board at the transition point from thick to thin, I would rather go for one large piece. I find when I am working with Epoxy I tend to squeeze alot of the excess out, due to the viscosity and the curing time compared to poly resin.

Is it difficult to use a veneer, would you have to vacuum the board? I was thinking of a bamboo veneer but can't find the stuff.

Cheers
Rich
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
21 Feb 2011 6:59am
transitions from 3 - 2 layers of glass. You are referring to where a stress riser will occur. This can be over come by the shape of the 3rd layer and if you "taper" it onto the 2nd, ie sand it so it thins out where the two meet.....but dont sand through the 2nd layer ;)

avoid square edges and going straigth across the board....cut the third layer out in a diamond shape and have the tips pointing front/back along the stringer, with the widest spots where you want to stand.

NB. I have NEVER shaped a board nore know much about it
richswing
richswing
WA
724 posts
WA, 724 posts
10 Mar 2011 11:09pm
Hey Guys,

Finally found the link to the SUB shaping.

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Stand-Up-Paddle/SUP/Dales-new-board/?page=2

I have ordered my polystyrene foam, just got to go and pic it up.

Would anybody have a template of a 9'6 wave board I could borrow (software ackushaper or similar)

Cheers
Rich
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