how much is a good paddle worth?

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Al Hunter
Al Hunter
NSW
367 posts
NSW, 367 posts
8 Jun 2014 10:35am
Good paddles are expensive, unfortunately this is a fact.
But then you have to wonder how ready can we be to travel for a race and find ourself left with a broken stick in our hands?
Every SUP manufacturers is trying to convince us they are paddle manufacturers as well...my opinion is they are not.
To sum up the top 3 board makers in the last month we had Titouan breaking his starboard blade at the start of the relay event in Nicaragua that ended up with team france being disqualified...then the next day still in Nicaragua Dylan snapping his Naish paddle in the marathon.... And yesterday leading the final in Bilbao jake missing it because of his fanatic blade going down...
If i was an elite paddler i would be very careful to stipulate in my contract that I just want the board, not the paddle....then i would try to contact a paddle manufacturer....
Deano72
Deano72
NSW
540 posts
NSW, 540 posts
8 Jun 2014 10:53am
It is extremely unfortunate that elite level athletes are being let down by their equipment.
It just shouldn't happen.....it doesn't need to
gregc
gregc
VIC
1299 posts
VIC, 1299 posts
8 Jun 2014 1:19pm
We watched a number of the Fanatic Blades fail this year in our little group down here. The Naish Blades seem to be quite hardy. I have a KeNalu for racing and I swear you could drive a truck over it and it would still work and I use a Mike Fry for surf and that has seen so much punishment I am surprised that it is still in one piece.
Tang
Tang
VIC
580 posts
VIC, 580 posts
8 Jun 2014 2:01pm
I have no experience at all with the SUP manufacturer blades, as I've been on Werner the whole time. I'd have to say the same as Greg, too - my 3pc Nitro has been flogged for three years and is still in one piece. Or three pieces, as it were. An now looking at getting hold of one of their bent shaft paddles.
colas
colas
5388 posts
5388 posts
8 Jun 2014 7:06pm
All the more so, since carbon shattering in the hand can lead to very nasty (piercing and brittle) splinters very hard to remove.
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
9 Jun 2014 12:30am
All the years that I've been paddling (6-7yrs almost every day) and I've never broken a Kialoa paddle.. That's partly why I've stuck with Kialoa.. (touch wood).. I've seen the odd one break and heard about others so I know they can and do break.. I replaced a shaft on one of my Methane's once after noticing a suss looking fracture about half way down the shaft about where they tend to break.. (right where your lower had goes).. I have broken a few other paddles (not Kialoa) and is a bad feeling.. Really bad.. Kialoa now use a different type of carbon shaft in their race paddles that seems supa-doopa strong.. I've not heard of one of these breaking.. I've been out on DW'ers with friends that have broken a paddle and it can be very serious.. Having confidence in your equipment is a very important thing.. Especially if you often paddle alone and are a long way out from the shore.. I've always recommended the Naish paddles as a good reliable and strong paddle.. I think their recent problem was with the groove in the adjusting piece so it wasn't the blade or shaft but the skinny extending piece.. I've heard they've fixed that problem now.. I've seen early QB shafts and early Werner handles break.. I've seen a few of the early Starboard paddles break but not seen one of their newier paddles break.. (Yet).. I've seen pics of broken KeNalu's but never seen one break.. I've seen pics of broken Fanatic paddles but not seen one in person.. I guess if you're dealing with light weight carbon fiber there is always a chance of it breaking.. The key is to treat them well.. Don't drop or knock them because it's often where a little nick or chip is that's where they break.
Jeroensurf
Jeroensurf
1132 posts
1132 posts
8 Jun 2014 11:06pm
Yesterday the guy in the lead at the Dutch beachrace championsships broke his Starboard High Aspect Paddle after a few strokes right after the start.
I have seen broken fanatics and broke a Quikblade myself.
Everybody is putting more and more strength on paddles while we want them each time lighter and stiffer so the space for a little error or weakness in the design or manufacturing process becomes smaller and smaller. guess its gonna happen moreoften unless we make stuff a little bit more heavier but stronger (or more expensive and manufactured with great precision).

PTWoody
PTWoody
VIC
3982 posts
VIC, 3982 posts
9 Jun 2014 1:44am
Like DJ, I have never broken a paddle, and I've used Kialoa, KeNalu, and now Starboard. The only instance of a broken paddle that I owned was when I leant a Kialoa to a 12 year old girl at a demo day. An unkind critic might deduce that I have less power than a 12 year old girl, but regardless, Sam from Kialoa kindly replaced the blade on that occasion.

Also, as Husq suggests in another thread, nicks and scratches in the paddle shaft can be revealing. As he implies, when a shaft snaps, it was most likely damaged on a previous occasion creating a weakness.
paul.j
paul.j
QLD
3381 posts
QLD, 3381 posts
9 Jun 2014 3:15am
All paddles break I know as I own a shop and have seen them all!!

Sometimes yes it can be a fault other times maybe not, you use jakes fanatic paddle breaking in the sprint here as a example which could be a faulty paddle or it could be becauce he wears a big ring on each of his hands that hit the paddle everytime he paddles which could quite easily put a small crack leading to a break? Yes as I said all paddles can break but as it seems there is usually more to the story than what most would like to think.

jacko
lost at sea
lost at sea
WA
358 posts
WA, 358 posts
9 Jun 2014 8:28am
While we're on the topic of snapping and broken paddles , does anyone have any tried and tested tips for taking your paddle on planes, and are some airlines better then others? Planning on a vicco surf trip late r this year and super keen to take my sup gear this time cheers in advance tortise
Tang
Tang
VIC
580 posts
VIC, 580 posts
9 Jun 2014 11:19am
Al Hunter said..

Good paddles are expensive, unfortunately this is a fact...


I meant to say something about this earlier, and expect I may receive a drubbing.

Good paddles appear to be far more expensive in Australia than the US. I don't work in the industry but do appreciate the concept of margins, but I do not understand why I can buy a paddle in the states and have it shipped here and still save $200+. I am not sure if this applies across all brands, but my werner was quoted to me over the phone from Sydney a couple of years ago (only place which stocked them) at $580 and I managed to order it from the states for $370 including $50 for postage. The shop in the states were still making enough on it at that price. I don't understand why the margin here needed to be so high, and wonder if this applies still, and if it's also across the other brands.

I'd have thought my shipping price would be hugely reduced per unit if ordered in volume, and that the distributors here get the same cost price (or close to it) from the manufacturer? The above example might be considered extreme, but if you reduce the freight to even $20/unit, there's a margin of $240 on top of the margin the US shop was ok with.

Hence why I don't understand why good paddles are so expensive. I'd much prefer to support australian shops, but when I feel I'm being dudded it makes it difficult.

husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
9 Jun 2014 11:23am
PTWoody said..

Like DJ, I have never broken a paddle, and I've used Kialoa, KeNalu, and now Starboard. The only instance of a broken paddle that I owned was when I leant a Kialoa to a 12 year old girl at a demo day. An unkind critic might deduce that I have less power than a 12 year old girl, but regardless, Sam from Kialoa kindly replaced the blade on that occasion.

Also, as Husq suggests in another thread, nicks and scratches in the paddle shaft can be revealing. As he implies, when a shaft snaps, it was most likely damaged on a previous occasion creating a weakness.


Yep, IMO any small scratch or nick in the surface of the shaft can lead to crack propogation. Very small cracks that you would not see. These will only get bigger over time and it will also a break down in the bonding/constuction of the materials due to being exposed to the elements. I use wax on my board not deck grip, so alot ends up on my paddle shaft. I went to get some off with a wax comb and had to stop myself on the first go (stupid idiot)

I have only ever had 2 QB paddles and no others, these have been floorless in perfromance. I like the smooth polished shaft of the older one as far as strength goes.

husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
9 Jun 2014 11:25am
Tang said..

Al Hunter said..

Good paddles are expensive, unfortunately this is a fact...


I meant to say something about this earlier, and expect I may receive a drubbing.

Good paddles appear to be far more expensive in Australia than the US. I don't work in the industry but do appreciate the concept of margins, but I do not understand why I can buy a paddle in the states and have it shipped here and still save $200+. I am not sure if this applies across all brands, but my werner was quoted to me over the phone from Sydney a couple of years ago (only place which stocked them) at $580 and I managed to order it from the states for $370 including $50 for postage. The shop in the states were still making enough on it at that price. I don't understand why the margin here needed to be so high, and wonder if this applies still, and if it's also across the other brands.

I'd have thought my shipping price would be hugely reduced per unit if ordered in volume, and that the distributors here get the same cost price (or close to it) from the manufacturer? The above example might be considered extreme, but if you reduce the freight to even $20/unit, there's a margin of $240 on top of the margin the US shop was ok with.

Hence why I don't understand why good paddles are so expensive. I'd much prefer to support australian shops, but when I feel I'm being dudded it makes it difficult.



I guess one of the reasons is fees. If you order something under $1000 you pay no extra fees. Import a container worth and you are paying import duties, gst, brokerage etc. This is usualy no less than 18% on the total cost.
HumanCartoon
HumanCartoon
VIC
2098 posts
VIC, 2098 posts
9 Jun 2014 12:27pm
Tang said..

Al Hunter said..

Good paddles are expensive, unfortunately this is a fact...


I meant to say something about this earlier, and expect I may receive a drubbing.

Good paddles appear to be far more expensive in Australia than the US. I don't work in the industry but do appreciate the concept of margins, but I do not understand why I can buy a paddle in the states and have it shipped here and still save $200+. I am not sure if this applies across all brands, but my werner was quoted to me over the phone from Sydney a couple of years ago (only place which stocked them) at $580 and I managed to order it from the states for $370 including $50 for postage. The shop in the states were still making enough on it at that price. I don't understand why the margin here needed to be so high, and wonder if this applies still, and if it's also across the other brands.

I'd have thought my shipping price would be hugely reduced per unit if ordered in volume, and that the distributors here get the same cost price (or close to it) from the manufacturer? The above example might be considered extreme, but if you reduce the freight to even $20/unit, there's a margin of $240 on top of the margin the US shop was ok with.

Hence why I don't understand why good paddles are so expensive. I'd much prefer to support australian shops, but when I feel I'm being dudded it makes it difficult.



Yours is a 3-piece Werner? There's your answer (or at least part of it). A 3-piece would fit within USPS standard parcel limits (max length 42") so the shipping for you is relatively cheap...and the landed cost to you was under the $1000 limit for GST...and you're (presumably) not trying to make a living by importing and selling paddles...there's a couple more pieces of the puzzle...

Let me tell you a story - a couple of years ago when a new paddle came to market, I tried to order one for myself direct from the company in the US. The length of the one-piece shafts was WAY outside the USPS parcel limit of 42". Once you're out of USPS you are at the mercy of UPS, Fedex, DHL and the like who charge exorbitant rates for small consignments, by calculated cube weight - for each paddle the (international) shipping from any of these services was going to cost roughly as much as the paddle. The landed cost for an individual paddle was going to be in the range of $750-800 which was prohibitively expensive. One day, in the chat after a downwinder, it turned out there were a couple of other Melbourne blokes who had tried to do the same as me. They wanted these paddles too - because of the way the cube weight is priced, the dollar cost for bringing in ten wasn't too much more than for one but it was still a bit exxy and a bit of a hassle to bring in quantity because then (as husq pointed out), you're into customs clearance, duties, GST etc, GST on your customs and shipping costs etc etc. One of those Melbourne blokes (not me*) had an entrepreneurial bent and a personal connection to the business owner, so he negotiated an agency/distribution arrangement and brought in an initial consignment of a dozen or so with some extra bits and pieces, handles & whatnot. And so Ke Nalu Australia was born. In the end everyone got their paddles at a cost that was a lot easier to swallow (and that agency is now in other good hands) but it was a long way around. The paddle importers are entitled to earn a feed and SUP in Australia is a small, remote, low-volume market - I'd reckon they're not all getting rich off it.


(*I'm not in the industry, BTW, never have been)


Deano72
Deano72
NSW
540 posts
NSW, 540 posts
9 Jun 2014 1:51pm
HumanCartoon said..


Tang said..


Al Hunter said..

Good paddles are expensive, unfortunately this is a fact...



I meant to say something about this earlier, and expect I may receive a drubbing.

Good paddles appear to be far more expensive in Australia than the US. I don't work in the industry but do appreciate the concept of margins, but I do not understand why I can buy a paddle in the states and have it shipped here and still save $200+. I am not sure if this applies across all brands, but my werner was quoted to me over the phone from Sydney a couple of years ago (only place which stocked them) at $580 and I managed to order it from the states for $370 including $50 for postage. The shop in the states were still making enough on it at that price. I don't understand why the margin here needed to be so high, and wonder if this applies still, and if it's also across the other brands.

I'd have thought my shipping price would be hugely reduced per unit if ordered in volume, and that the distributors here get the same cost price (or close to it) from the manufacturer? The above example might be considered extreme, but if you reduce the freight to even $20/unit, there's a margin of $240 on top of the margin the US shop was ok with.

Hence why I don't understand why good paddles are so expensive. I'd much prefer to support australian shops, but when I feel I'm being dudded it makes it difficult.




Yours is a 3-piece Werner? There's your answer (or at least part of it). A 3-piece would fit within USPS standard parcel limits (max length 42") so the shipping for you is relatively cheap...and the landed cost to you was under the $1000 limit for GST...and you're (presumably) not trying to make a living by importing and selling paddles...there's a couple more pieces of the puzzle...

Let me tell you a story - a couple of years ago when a new paddle came to market, I tried to order one for myself direct from the company in the US. The length of the one-piece shafts was WAY outside the USPS parcel limit of 42". Once you're out of USPS you are at the mercy of UPS, Fedex, DHL and the like who charge exorbitant rates for small consignments, by calculated cube weight - for each paddle the (international) shipping from any of these services was going to cost roughly as much as the paddle. The landed cost for an individual paddle was going to be in the range of $750-800 which was prohibitively expensive. One day, in the chat after a downwinder, it turned out there were a couple of Melbourne blokes who had tried to do the same as me. They wanted these paddles too - because of the way the cube weight is priced, the dollar cost for bringing in ten wasn't too much more than for one but it was still a bit exxy to bring in quantity because then (as husq pointed out), you're into customs clearance, duties, GST etc, GST on your customs costs etc etc. One of those Melbourne blokes (not me*) had an entrepreneurial bent and a personal connection to the business owner, so he negotiated an agency/distribution arrangement and brought in an initial consignment of a dozen or so with some extra bits and pieces, handles & whatnot. And so Ke Nalu Australia was born. In the end everyone got their paddles at a cost that was a lot easier to swallow (and that agency is now in other good hands) but it was a long way around. The paddle importers are entitled to earn a feed and SUP in Australia is a small, remote, low-volume market - I'd reckon they're not all getting rich off it.


(*I'm not in the industry, BTW, never have been)




As a paddle importer / distributor I can assure you that I'm not doing it for the money!
I do it because I love the product and the sport and thankfully it is not my main gig or my family and I would be out on the street and starving!
If I didn't think the paddles I import were absolutely awesome and Aussies should be able to get their hands on them as cheaply as possible, I wouldn't be doing it.
My accountant and the wife think I'm nuts as the paddle business drags me away from my real job and it ends up costing me money to do it.

A few other factors that haven't been mentioned that add to the cost:
- Retail margins on paddles, and presumably many other products, in Australia are considerably higher than they are in the US.....which is fair enough as I'm fairly sure the cost of running a business in Australia is higher than in the US.....rent and wages for shop staff are!
Everyone is happy to earn a higher wage BUT this flows through to the cost of goods that no one is happy about.
- Exchange rates are having more and more of an impact as the Aussie dollar falls away from parity with the US dollar. The lower it goes the more imported goods are going to cost until it gets to a point that it is more cost effective to manufacture in Australia than it is to import.
Bring it on.....it would be awesome if it stacked up to manufacture stuff in Australia!!
- International freight costs are mega expensive......and duties, GST, etc has to be paid on the freight costs too.....converted to Aussie dollars. OUCH!!
- Any other small business owner in Australia would realise all of the other costs you're hit with that all add up each year.
- Advertising & website costs.....it just goes on and on and on.

It's not just paddles that are expensive in Australia.
All GOOD QUALITY imported products are!!
Tang
Tang
VIC
580 posts
VIC, 580 posts
9 Jun 2014 2:16pm
Good points, HC and Deano, thanks for that. I'm not a small business owner in your sense, though "we" are of sorts and I understand the ledger. I don't begrudge anyone the opportunity to make a living, to be sure, and I also appreciate the low volume issue, and partic the wages point. They're all fair issues. I just lament that we end up paying so much more for things that are a lot more accessible/affordable overseas, but ce la vie I suppose.

Sounds like I better get in touch about a paddle, Deano!

cheers

maxeaus
maxeaus
NSW
326 posts
NSW, 326 posts
9 Jun 2014 3:25pm
Although I've never snapped a paddle out of the several I own, my mate recently snapped 3 in a one month period!

The first was a no name brand, then he bought another paddle for $350 which is not well known, it broke in 3 weeks, then he borrowed one adjustable from the shop where his second one was getting a new shaft and snapped that too!

Now the moral of the story is this "new" Paddle had no warranty on it even though it was $350 brand new, now if he had bought say a Kenalu for example he would have had the 12 month warranty to fall back on and not have to pay another $150 for a new shaft and still have no guarantee it wont happen again after dropping $500.

No names or brands were mentioned in this post to avoid upsetting anyone apart from the hypothetical Kenalu.
gregc
gregc
VIC
1299 posts
VIC, 1299 posts
9 Jun 2014 4:52pm
As with any manufacturing process one would expect a failure rate to be the norm. I will say that one of the benefits of buying a 'name' brand and having it break and dealing with your local shop is that you have someone to go back to and get some back up service. I will say our local shop is not always the cheapest but dam if you have a problem you can guarantee that they will provide back up on the products you buy from them. In each case where we have seen a paddle break it has been replaced (where appropriate) with a minimum of fuss. So for us out here in the wilderness you won't find a lot of us complaining about paying (in some cases) a little more then what we could get online, cause if it breaks or doesn't perform the way its supposed to a real person will work through the problem with you and get a solution in place.


Crh005
Crh005
9 posts
9 posts
9 Jun 2014 6:51pm
Is anybody using alloy paddles? I've broken 2 well known carbon paddles in the last 6 months and am struggling to justify the cash for another. I'm surfing 95% of the time so weight really isn't a concern, are alloy paddles more durable? Less prone to snapping? I would be pretty keen to give one a go if anyone has any recommendations.
teatrea
teatrea
QLD
4177 posts
QLD, 4177 posts
9 Jun 2014 9:11pm
Bamboo shafts?
Crh005
Crh005
9 posts
9 posts
10 Jun 2014 5:21am
I've only ever seen the bamboo laminate blades and a quick google didn't turn anything up. I've been considering making a timber paddle but my woodworking skills aren't great haha. Any links for the bamboo shafts?
Ulesys
Ulesys
WA
135 posts
WA, 135 posts
10 Jun 2014 6:44am
I've been using YOB paddles the last couple of years and am yet to have one break, or even hear of one yet. There are allot of them on the west coast and I've never really heard of one failing. Having said that, it only takes one bad batch off a commercial production line and you've got potentially got a faulty product spread through out an international market.

Early bike frames made of carbon fibre were notorious for cracks and breaking as the race to lose weight heated up, could it just be we are experiencing those growing pains with carbon paddles?
DavidJohn
DavidJohn
VIC
17570 posts
VIC, 17570 posts
10 Jun 2014 11:20am
Crh005 said...
Is anybody using alloy paddles? I've broken 2 well known carbon paddles in the last 6 months and am struggling to justify the cash for another. I'm surfing 95% of the time so weight really isn't a concern, are alloy paddles more durable? Less prone to snapping? I would be pretty keen to give one a go if anyone has any recommendations.


I've used heaps of alloy shaft paddles.. I used to make my own.. I still have an alloy shaft Kialoa paddle.. and after using carbon I'd never go back to alloy.. It's cold.. slippery.. and doesn't feel like carbon when it flexes.. It's also noticeably heavier.. You also have the problem where it can bend and stay bent.. Carbon will always go back 100% to it's original shape.. I've also used a bamboo shaft paddle and it was awful.. Too thick in diameter.. and I'd never trust it.. If the dia is slim like a good carbon shaft it's way too flexy.. and thicker feels like a piece of 2x4 wood.
Legion
Legion
WA
2222 posts
WA, 2222 posts
10 Jun 2014 9:46am
Razzonater said...
I use wax on my board not deck grip, so alot ends up on my paddle shaft. I went to get some off with a wax comb and had to stop myself on the first go (stupid idiot)


I highly doubt a wax comb is going to compromise the integrity of any carbon/glass/resin. You're going to get a lot worse damage from day to day incidental impact than you ever will with a little plastic wax comb.
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
10 Jun 2014 11:56am
Aluminium is prone to age hardening, that is the material becomes harder (re more brittle) with age. That can happen with it just sitting on the shelf in stock form. It is also prone to work hardening. (most materials are) that is like if you bend a peice of wire back and forth it will break. Depending on material depends on how bad this is. Copper is bad for work hardening.

Sure there are many many different types of aluminium and then treatments on top of that. I would have a guess that most alumium paddles are going to be in the lower price bracket and therefore not anything flash material or temper wise????

IMO carbon has it over alumium in all areas except impact.

I do wonder about shaft shape. That is some are not just a circle in cross section. Yes design may make it stronger if loaded purely in a front to back direction, but could have some negatives if loaded off that axis????

The other thing I think of is "spine". Back many moons ago when I use to build fishing rods, Id start with a fibre glass, or carbon/glass blank. The first thing you would do is place one hand under and one hand over the blank. The top hand would be under, the lower hand over. WIth the butt on the ground you would load the blank up (bend it like a fish was on it) and roll it back and forth. A definite spine could be felt, it would cam over and want to stay in that postion. Then you would texter mark that line as the centre line and place the eyelets/guides either under or over the centre line depending on the type or rod building. I do wonder if paddle shafts have a spine and whether or not companies are finding them and aliging them in the load direction???
Legion
Legion
WA
2222 posts
WA, 2222 posts
10 Jun 2014 11:21am
One thing you could do (you meaning anyone interested in paddle shaft design) is look into combining materials. Two that spring to mind are kevlar or Innegra. Wrap the CF in Innegra and you get the stiffness properties of CF encased in the impact resistance of Innegra. The major problem with that is the added weight.

Alternatively, you could look at different resins that provide protection. Something like this:

www.kbs-coatings.com/DiamondFinish-Clear.html
ActionSportsWA
ActionSportsWA
WA
1007 posts
WA, 1007 posts
10 Jun 2014 11:56am
Hi Tang,

With the cost of doing business in Australia being much higher than in the US, we start at a great disadvantage. The US retailers run on much leaner margins as they sell to a much larger customer base.

A Quickblade Kanaha is $339 USD. In Australia it is $489 AUD. Using the current exchange rate, by the time you add duty and taxes you are looking at $450 AUD. This doesn't include shipping. Add shipping and you're cheaper buying it here in Oz.

I don't think you're being dudded.

Just saying!

DM
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
10 Jun 2014 1:57pm
not sure why you felt you had to change my user name, but I guess that is just the **** stirrer in you.

Wax is sticky, sand particals stick to it, that along with the hard edge of a wax comb will put LOTS of scratches in the suface finish of the shaft. If you dont think that is a risk of defect starting you may need to do a little more reading.
Legion
Legion
WA
2222 posts
WA, 2222 posts
10 Jun 2014 12:12pm
Oh, that's because due to forum quirks I can't quote or edit or reply. I get a message saying I don't have permission. I guess that means I'm still officially banned from this forum. So I just quoted another post in another forum to make sure I got the quote tags right. Sorry both husq2100 and Razzonater. Can't edit it to fix it.

Surface finish isn't the issue AFAIK, it's damage to the carbon fibres themselves that will be the downfall. Maybe I'm wrong. But I use wax on my proper boards and scrape the hell out of them just about every day with both the tooth side and the scraper side and never noticed any damage to any board. However, I also don't tend to get any sand in my wax at all, not ever.
husq2100
husq2100
QLD
2031 posts
QLD, 2031 posts
10 Jun 2014 3:14pm
not sure you are still banned, you wouldnt be able to post if you were....and whats a "proper board"???

oh thats right...

Surface finish and thickness on a surfboard is going to be thicker than a paddle shaft. Plus we are talking more psi on a shaft, material thickness, load, load cycles etc. So yes you may be having lots of scratches on your board that you dont know about and they probably wont effect the use of it. Working life of any material/product comes down to many variables. Lots of stuff on your car could be made lighter but the fatigue life would end up breaking it, not just breaking from one or two uses.

This thread was started regarding the pointy end of racing. In other racing where $$$$ are much higher, equipment is changed out before failure, or at least checked for flaws and defects, to a very high involved level. Stuff that is changed out will even be checked and distrcuted to gain valuable information.

What im talking about regarding scrathes and nicks, are the start of imperfections that lead to a greater failure. Stuff you can not see, stuff that leads to the fibres being damgaed. BTW, raw CF is nothiing without the resin around it. SO the resin/surface is part of the structure also.

Surface finishing of materials is basically a whole engineering dept to itself, like heat treating or simple material choice. How far it is taken is only a mater of $$$ and desire.
HumanCartoon
HumanCartoon
VIC
2098 posts
VIC, 2098 posts
10 Jun 2014 3:24pm
husq2100 said...
What im talking about regarding scrathes and nicks, are the start of imperfections that lead to a greater failure. Stuff you can not see, stuff that leads to the fibres being damgaed. BTW, raw CF is nothiing without the resin around it. SO the resin/surface is part of the structure also.


This. Bike racing and other sports that are long-time users of CF tubes (and aluminium, for that matter) know about stress risers caused by impact or other trauma and what the consequences can be. Usually the advice with a handlebar or seatpost (or similar) is to throw it away if it's had a knock, or a clamp has been over-torqued or the like.

Interesting question about the 'spine', built up a couple of rods a while back and I remember this...might try a little experiment next time I'm messing with one of my ke nalu shafts.

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