62mac said...Come on climber,we need a story about the smack @ snaps,the forum is drying up without loud mouth billboard out of town

Story time...

Got to snaps at 2.30, windy northerly

, but a good swell on

Thought well... can't be to bad there is one other long boarder out there and a few (10-15) on shorties... all good.
Paddled out joined the line up, no dramas.
Not wanting to upset any one by stealing all the waves being the awesome surfer that I am

......not

, let serveral pass. All good
Caught a few smaller one, solid 4-5ft all good, over the falls once all OK
Recoverd from that to see that I was very alone and seemed to be looking at everyones feet as they all seem to be paddling east...

Up onto board quick... but alas not quick enough it would seem...
Looked up and saw nothing but a foaming lip..
Over the falls.. fun in tropics on a raft...but not much fun here
Got dragged by my board that seemed to have a bloody life of its own by now, only to get my head above water... more bloody foaming crests, what makes it worse, some bloody surfer is riding it and very very well

Board comes alive again and takes of....climber follows via leg rope.... you get the picture.
Anyway..ended up at the west end of the beach of snapper...paddled back out, jumped a smaller wave..surfed around the headland to the beach and grabbed a coffee..

Never realised how much time I spent underwater untill I was reviewing some drawing back in Brisvegus later that arvo and about 1 liter of bloody sea water shot from my sinuses as I lent over the bench to grab a pen..... bloody p!ss@d myself laughing...

.. funny
climber